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Old 22-07-2010, 12:15   #1
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Is a Maccerator Pump Really Necessary ?

Someone once told me, they aren't needed, because for lack of a better term. The **** is already really mixed up after going through the valve on the head, and sloshing around in the holding tank. Basically, if you're going to get a clog, it's going to be on the inlet to the tank, not the outlet.

Mine is due for a rebuild soon. Cost of the rebuild kit is half the price of the pump. It would cost a lot less to just yank it out, get a fitting, and maybe a some hose, and connect the holding tank directly to the thru-hull. One less thing to maintain would be a plus too.
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:23   #2
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Are you feeling lucky Punk?

Playing the what if game, .....what if it isnt ok and it blocks? Only you can answer that.
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:33   #3
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Are you sure gravity will drain it?

After all, if the tank is below the water line, and the thruhull is below the water line, without a pump, you'll just fill the tank with sea water. And almost as bad, if the tank is below the through hull, but the through hull is above the water line, gravity will do a whole lought of nothing.

If the tank is below the water line, you need a pump of some sort.
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:37   #4
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why isn't your macerator inline between the head and the tank? Seems that that would be the most helpful place for it to be... That's where I remember it being when we had one...
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:42   #5
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I dont use a macerator pump instead I use a manual bilgepump (Whale). My system has the heads directly to the holding tank then you can either pump out using the deck fitting or pump out using the manual pump if in approved waters. No Y valves, no vented loops, a lot less hose. Macerator pumps are nice but ive heard of them having problems if not used regularly. I rarely operate my boat in an area that permits discharge so the deck fill pump out is what normally gets used. I'm not sure if a straight gravity fed drain would work but your case may be different. FWIW I've never had a turd clog the manual whale pump and the rebuild kit is affordable.
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:43   #6
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Originally Posted by SV Escape Plan View Post
Macerator pumps are nice but ive heard of them having problems if not used regularly.
even when used regularly.... ; -P
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:47   #7
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They sell diaphragm pumps to pump out holding tanks.

holding tank diaphragm pump - Google Product Search

Doesn't even have to be electric.

holding tank diaphragm pump guzzler - Google Product Search


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Old 22-07-2010, 12:47   #8
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They're more problematic than they're worth. Our tank is above the waterline, when able to do so all I do is open 2 valves, one at the tank bottom, and the through hull, always drains!!. If you can't do this I'd suggest one of the whale diaphram pumps(with nitrile), they really don't clog, don't consume electricty, and can almost pump faster than the electric "macerator" pump. If your diet is such that you really need to grind stool you need to change your diet!!!
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:52   #9
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Originally Posted by anjou View Post
Playing the what if game, .....what if it isnt ok and it blocks? Only you can answer that.
But the question still remains, is it really necessary? Is it really likely to block? Are the even installed standard on new boats, where the holding tank is above the water line and the thru-hull. I'm willing to play what if, if the designers and builders are...maybe.

Very shallow draft on my boat. Thru-hull is below the waterline, and tank is on a shelf about a foot above the water line.
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Old 22-07-2010, 12:56   #10
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But the question still remains, is it really necessary? Is it really likely to block? Are the even installed standard on new boats, where the holding tank is above the water line and the thru-hull. I'm willing to play what if, if the designers and builders are...maybe.

Very shallow draft on my boat. Thru-hull is below the waterline, and tank is on a shelf about a foot above the water line.
Lagoon cats don't have pumps, just the gravity drain, I don't have a pump, just a gravity drain.......and our discharge is about 1.5' below the waterline. So far no clogs!!!. Even if there is a clog i'm not opposed to poking a coat hanger up the discharge
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Old 22-07-2010, 14:27   #11
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Originally Posted by grunzster View Post
Someone once told me, they aren't needed, because for lack of a better term. The **** is already really mixed up after going through the valve on the head, and sloshing around in the holding tank. Basically, if you're going to get a clog, it's going to be on the inlet to the tank, not the outlet.

Mine is due for a rebuild soon. Cost of the rebuild kit is half the price of the pump. It would cost a lot less to just yank it out, get a fitting, and maybe a some hose, and connect the holding tank directly to the thru-hull. One less thing to maintain would be a plus too.
You're talking fifty dollars right? The pump was put there for a reason. Unless you think you're smarter than the people who designed your boat, pay the fifty dollars, rebuild the pump, and move on.
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Old 22-07-2010, 14:44   #12
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when you are at sea, how do you empty the holding tank?? the macerator is there after the tank for that reason. is easier for the bactertia that disappear dooty to do so if it is reallllly small rather than fresh made--lol---the macerator smooshes it all up and emulsifies it essentially so it can disappear after going thru the hole....instead of floating around on the sea for a while looking like what it is. not all the stuff will be emulsified in the holding tank. some doesnt break up.

and you are really going to find a pump out dock in the middle of the ocean........
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Old 22-07-2010, 14:59   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarafina View Post
why isn't your macerator inline between the head and the tank? Seems that that would be the most helpful place for it to be... That's where I remember it being when we had one...
I have no idea. I didn't install it. "When you had one."

Quote:
Originally Posted by SV Escape Plan View Post
My system has the heads directly to the holding tank then you can either pump out using the deck fitting or pump out using the manual pump if in approved waters. No Y valves, no vented loops, a lot less hose.
Same here. Just redid the plumbing and removed all of that. And added a loop, just on the inlet. Due to my shallow draft, the head bowl could wind up below the water in rough seas.

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You're talking fifty dollars right? The pump was put there for a reason. Unless you think you're smarter than the people who designed your boat, pay the fifty dollars, rebuild the pump, and move on.
Considering some of things, I and other owners would call design flaws, in some instances, yeah I may be smarter. Even if not, I'd be willing to bet I'm at least as smart as one of the previous owners, one of who installed this. Also, it's not about actually $70, now. It's about future time and money, put into maintaining something that wasn't necessary in the first place.
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Old 22-07-2010, 15:35   #14
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Oops - Meant to say as smart as at least one of the 3 previous owners.
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Old 23-07-2010, 05:43   #15
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Considering some of things, I and other owners would call design flaws, in some instances, yeah I may be smarter. Even if not, I'd be willing to bet I'm at least as smart as one of the previous owners, one of who installed this. Also, it's not about actually $70, now. It's about future time and money, put into maintaining something that wasn't necessary in the first place.
You why did you post the question if you have already made up your mind?
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