- Michelle with Dickinson Marine/ Sig Marine
always provides a fast, thorough response to my questions. I've decided that I want to go with their Lofoten model, which will produce heat, heat water and even has a small cooking
surface to act as a backup to the Origo
6000 with perhaps higher heat for some special dishes. I like the idea of the Wallas too ... maybe install it next year ... lol ...
Question: Lofoten has the cooking
surface on it. What temperature does this surface get to, i.e. how does it compare with other dedicated cooking diesel stoves?
The temperature of the cooktop would depend on how hot the heater is run and for how long.
It appears from the drawing that the draft
assist fan is "under" the pot so that it forces air up from under (and through) the pot. This seems like it would help to provide positive air pressure in the cabin and help to deter down drafts, but it seems that down drafts still could force air from the fire into the cabin (thereby putting fumes in the cabin) with all of the air inlets in the pot itself. I guess the cap/charlie noble up top is the key to stopping down drafts in this system. Does it sound like I'm properly understanding how the system is set up in this regard?
The draft assist fan is underneath the burner pot blowing air into the burner holes adding air to the "fuel to air mixture" inside the burner pot when artificial draft is needed to achieve clean combustion or for start up to help vaporize the fuel
. It doesn't really help with the positive pressure or the draft going up the chimney. The positive pressure and the strong draft going up the chimney is more created from the fresh air vents you dedicate for your heater and the way the exhaust chimney is installed. Also, running your heater at a higher temperature will also fight against downdraft as the hotter the heater is burning, the stronger the draft will be going UP the chimney which makes it harder for the wind to come down the chimney. If the temperature gets too warm inside the cabin you could always open a window as it is better to burn the heater hotter then not hot enough. The weaker the fire inside the heater, the weaker the draft, making you more susceptible to downdraft. The cap really doesn't have much to do with downdraft either. The key is to have a strong draft going up the chimney and correct ventilation. (See pg. 5 of the Instruction Manual I sent you)
I appreciate learning
that you have a safety
high temperature shut off valve, which is something I would definitely want to buy. I have learned from my Taylor heater that gravity flow will drastically change the drip rate over a short period of time. I prefer gravity flow because it doesn't require power, but you don't get the consistent feed that you would with an electric pump
. I'm just thinking through leaving the unit running while taking a shower
, but clearly wouldn't use it for heating
overnight while sleeping. I guess actual use and the level of fuel
in the gravity feed tank will dictate these timeframes just like on my Taylor heater.
Your Taylor heater may not have a float mechanism inside the valve. If you gravity feed a Dickinson heater, the drip rate will not change over time. If the gravity feed tank is mounted 12" above the valve the float equalizes the pressure so you drip rate stays the same.
From the manual it looks like the high temperature valve is a "fuse" that melts if the valve knob reaches 165 degrees. I'm hoping it's easy enough to change out the "fuse" as I've had my Taylor heater glowing red while trying to get enough heat out of it. Of course, it was just too small and given the BTU output of your units I don't see myself pushing them so hard. I guess practice is required like all things. I love the flame out valve. It sounds like with both low temp/high temp valves that there is a relative safety
where one could walk away for 15 minutes or so. It just depends on how the gravity flow impacts the flame, I suppose.
The high temp fuse in your valve should never melt. The bottom of the heater where the valve is located should never get hot enough for this fuse to melt. If it does, this means the fire is burning inside the burner pot INCORRECTLY. The fire should ALWAYS be burning outside the burner pot, above the top burner ring and the fuse should stay intact. If by accident
the fuse melts it is very easy to reset.
In looking over the lighting
instructions, it seems to indicate that you allow 2 tblsp of oil
(diesel?) into the pot, turn this off, then light the oil
(diesel fuel?) with paper (I use the long Bic lighters on my Taylor to great success-Using paper tends to have it float up out of the stack and land somewhere you don't want it topside), then replace the superheater ?? It says that this is priming fuel so perhaps I'm wrong in my assumption that you are putting 2 tblsp of diesel, but rather alcohol. I know that I have to prime my Taylor with alcohol, which is a small matter to me. Then, as the flame dies (just like my Taylor) you note to turn the oil metering valve to position one. My first question here is does the metering valve disperse alcohol in one position and diesel in another? I think I'm missing something here. Maybe your heaters don't require alcohol to heat the diesel for burning ??
The manual notes that you can leave the superheater in (my preference) and knock the paper down into the pot to light the oil (diesel?). I'm not sure of the access into the pot. For the Lofoten model, I guess you have access from the top (is this correct?). For the other models, it doesn't look like access is so easy. On the Taylor heater, you have a metal piece under the glass window with a single
screw in it so the thing can be rotated open or closed (with a screwdriver when it's hot - lol). One of those long, Bic lighters is just small enough to insert into this hole at an angle to easily light alcohol in the bottom of the pot. I can't see how pot access works from any diagrams in the Lofoten manual and was hoping you could let me know how it works (pictures or description).
Our heater's lighting
procedure does not require alcohol. The safest way to light the heater is to fill the burner pot with a small pool of diesel. Light a piece of paper towel and throw it into the diesel. This can be done with the superheater left in, just make sure to use something to poke it down into the fuel. Then turn the fan on to help vaporize the diesel. Diesel is only flammable once it heats up and vaporizes. This is the priming stage. Once the fuel is burned off you can turn the valve on and the fan off or to low. Some use alcohols or different methods for start up but this is the safest way that we recommend. Generally, the small piece of burned paper towel sits in the bottom of the pot and works nicely as a wick for next time. I have never had it fly out of the chimney and land somewhere.
To access the burner of the Lofoten you would take off the cast iron lid and can access it through there. The other model heaters you can access the burner through the window but the Lofoten model I would say has the best access. See the attached picture for the access to the Bristol stove burner, very similar to the Lofoten heater.
Let me know if you have any other questions or if I need to clarify anything.
Dickinson Marine/ Sig Marine
407-204 Cayer St. Coquitlam, BC
V3K 5B1 Canada
Tel: 604-525-6444 Ex. 302