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Old 03-05-2014, 14:19   #16
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Re: Head Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by nautical62 View Post
...Adding a one-way valve between your loop and the tank may be another solution...

If your discharge hose enters your holding tank near the bottom, re-plumbing it to the top may solve your problem.
A huge negative on adding a one-way valve!

Your last advice is the one to follow--the toilet should discharge into the TOP of the holding tank.
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Old 03-05-2014, 14:28   #17
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Re: Head Question

Raw sea intake needs the vented loop. Discharge side if you direct to holding tank not so much. Look at a lavac system or vaculflush. Those that have put these in are pretty happy. Otherwise you get to learn about joker valves and clogged up stuff.


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Old 06-05-2014, 20:31   #18
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Re: Head Question

[QUOTE=steve77;1532415]I was having a problem flushing our heads because the vented loop on the intake side prevented adequate vacuum to form to draw water to the pump. If you have trouble flushing, you may want to consider removing that vented loop.[/QUOTE

If the intake vented loop is in the line between the thru-hull and the toilet pump, it's in the wrong place. It belongs between the pump and the inlet on the back of the bowl, which will require replacing the short piece of hose that connects them now with new hoses long enough to put it at least 6-8" above waterline AT ANY ANGLE OF HEEL (not just at rest)...which on most sailboats, puts it about 3' above the toilet.

However, if the toilet is an electric model that doesn't have a hose connecting the pump to the bowl, you have no choice but to put the loop in the intake line...in which case an electric solenoid valve is needed...it replaces the air valve in the top of the loop. Jabsco makes one...part # 160929. It needs to be wired to connect to the toilet flush button or lever.
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Old 06-05-2014, 21:51   #19
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Re: Head Question

Re the vented loop on intake. If it is sucking air when flushing and located conveniently enough near the toilet, a super cheap "fix" is to place a finger over the anti-syphon valve when flushing.
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Old 06-05-2014, 23:10   #20
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Re: Head Question

TOILETS 101:
Loop in raw water supply line, going above the boat's water line? Yes. Vented? = Not on a manual toilet. You will suck air through the loop vent (if it's working) via the toilet suction, and may not get water at all, if vent is real good. If you don't suck air in this configuration your vent is useless anyway.

HOWEVER, if your raw water intake is pump driven, then a vented loop between pump and toilet is highly recommended, if not crucial by design. Read the manual.

Normally the vented loop goes in the toilet discharge hose and is primarily for those systems with "Y" valves that discharge to sea. Loop will be before the valve, and thus the tank when selected. This keeps the big blue sea from filling up your boat via toilet reversing siphon. If tank is vented (a few oldies are not guys) then vent in loop is not necessary for those systems never discharging directly to sea (or lake).

For non vented "tanks", the loop will have a hose fitted for fume venting to exterior IF system starts to build pressure; I'll spare the details of how it's valve functions (very old system).

Loops in systems without check valves will be practically located on top of the toilet (okay, behind something out of sight, but very close), as contents of hose prior to vent is expected to backflow into the bowl. ONLY those toilets with check valves at the base of the toilet will be free of at least some reverse flow from the discharge hose.

ALL loops should be above the water line, vented or not, and in certain boats with certain toilets (read the directions that came with yours) the loop should be high enough at some point to remain above the water the water line when heeled under way. I've installed and serviced ALL of these for years and years, much to my displeasure (ha ha).

For legal no discharge zones, you need no "vented" loops if tank is vented and y valve is completely disabled or removed (know these laws well), but you may need loops in or out depending on design of toilet and its ability to check itself. However, room for thought... Would you want to trust that valve to remain free of defect when the safety of your boat is concerned? I'd recommend loops unless instructions specifically say adding such will prevent toilet operation. To date, I personally have seen none that specify this. If I ever run across one that says no loops, I will recommend use of another toilet. Good flushing!
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