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Old 19-11-2008, 13:05   #1
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Head Plumbing Diagram - Help?

Is anyone else confused by the narrative in the first drawing compared to what is drawn on the attached? Could someone please help me out with where in inches fore and aft should be the intake vs outlet for the head?

Thanks in advance - JohnL
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Old 19-11-2008, 14:12   #2
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Revised Larger Diagram

Sorry for the little diagram in last post.
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Old 19-11-2008, 14:14   #3
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The diagrams should be credited to Building Your Dream Boat by Charles E. Wood
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Old 19-11-2008, 14:18   #4
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It would make sense to me that the outlet would be lower and aft of the inlet so that sewage discharge is not pulled into the system inlet, particularly when moving. I would guess that he is trying to say that the outlet is 6 inches lower and 12 inches aft of the inlet, just badly presented.
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Old 19-11-2008, 14:33   #5
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The text is muddled. Obviously the inlet should be forward of the outlet. I hope you are using more than one book. It helps when there is an error in one to have a second as a check.
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Old 19-11-2008, 14:37   #6
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You need to install a vented loop on the intake line, between the pump and the bowl (not before the pump) in order to avoid the possibility of SINKING YOUR BOAT.

Note also that the outlet as shown is only legal offshore and in areas where overboard discharge is permitted.

Bill
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Old 19-11-2008, 16:08   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiprJohn View Post
The diagrams should be credited to Building Your Dream Boat by Charles E. Wood
perhaps with the mistakes it would be kind to omit who the author is.......
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Old 19-11-2008, 17:07   #8
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Bill--

Note that a vented loop on the intake line will prevent a head mounted pump from functioning unless there is a way to close the vent when one needs to pump. On our boat that is accomplished with a small tube from the vent to a fitting on the face of the counter that one blocks with one's finger when pumping the head.

I suggest that the original poster visit the Raritan site to view their schematics for waste systems which are very detailed, clear and understandable. As to intake verses discharge, the specific density of waste-water is less than that of raw water (that's why poop floats), hence the discharge should be above and behind (aft) of the intake.

FWIW, aboard HyLyte maserated waste is not discharged within 3 miles of shore, regardless of the local rules pertaining to waste discharge.

FWIW...

s/v HyLyte
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Old 19-11-2008, 17:16   #9
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Bill--

Note that a vented loop on the intake line will prevent a head mounted pump from functioning unless there is a way to close the vent when one needs to pump.
Not right. That's only true if you install the vented loop between the seacock and the pump, not between the pump and the bowl as I suggested.

Bill
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Old 19-11-2008, 17:27   #10
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Best would be inlet one side and outlet the other.... boats are only moving about 10% of the time!
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Old 19-11-2008, 17:46   #11
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Bill--

If I am not mistaken I believe I wrote:

Quote:
Note that a vented loop on the intake line will prevent a head mounted pump from functioning

The foregoing was a Note, as in an annotation or adjunct, to your earlier observation rather than a refutation of same.
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Old 19-11-2008, 18:05   #12
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svHyLyte,

Yes, sorry. I believe you meant an integral pump, where the pump is an integral part of the toilet assembly and there is no hose you can reach between the pump and the toilet bowl.

I suppose there are some of these, like the high-end electrics, but most models of toilets found on cruising boats (Raritan, Groco, Jabsco, Wilcox-Crittenden) I believe have the external hose which is where the vented loop belongs.

For those that don't, though, ya gotta do the "finger" thing or make other provision :-)

Bill
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Old 19-11-2008, 20:01   #13
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Thanks for all the input! I kind of thought by reading other books and explanations that something was wrong with the diagram, i. e. shows the outlet below the inlet. I credited the diagrams because I didn't want folks thinking it was mine : ).

I agree that the vented loop is a good idea. The lip of the bowl on my head will be below the waterline when heeled to port at about 12.5 degrees and I have a habit of sailing heeled a bit so will be installed.

I think Cheechako has a good point and I might just be able to pull that off. It will be a bit of a chore to remember if its open or closed when it is 10 feet away but can live with it.

Does it matter at what depth the discharge thruhull is located?

Any further great ideas that I can gleen from you folks?

Regards, --JohnL--
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Old 25-11-2008, 08:19   #14
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I have the Raritan Manual Pump system, The bowls are old and worn as well as unsightly.Would anyone know where I could buy two "bowls only"???? I rather not buy the complete system. If it is not wise to do it this way please advise. Thank You. Jim
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Old 25-11-2008, 18:50   #15
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If the bowels are that bad I would replace the whole thing. You need to rebuild every now and again anyway. The rebuild kit and a bowl will probably cost more than a whole new, either way I would go with a larger house hold bowl instead of the old tiny ones. I changed mine with the same brand and the mounting holes were the same. The larger seat.. nice
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