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Old 02-01-2009, 12:23   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBEmerson View Post
How scored is the pump cylinder wall? For that matter, how old is the head? Generally, what's killed the heads I've dealt with is either the seals or warping in the plastic mating surfaces. You replaced the seals, so that leaves either the wall or a warped base. How badly does the overall head leak? I don't recall you're saying something like "water dribbles out of..." or "water squirts out of...", but maybe you're coping with water leaks, too? In general, though, it's air leaks on the inlet side that keep most pumps from working if things are otherwise OK.
RBE: I dont know if your question was to me or the OP..I dont want to hijack his thread but hope my information may help him..I have no visible leaks anywhere. and the pump feels no better with the new kit installed then it did before..I dont know how to describe the feeling in actuating the pump other then slobbery and worn out feeling...You know that sort of feeling where it grabs for a millisecond and then breaks its suction...I have only owned the boat for little more then a year so have no Idea on age but it looks 5 to 10 years old and has always operated this way and was noted on my survey to rebuild or replace...I should have done the latter.

I have a sea strainer on the intake through hull and can get plenty of flow through it.
There are no warped flanges or cracks in the head that I have found...

I just feel the pump is at the end of its useful life..they cost 200.00 the head is 350.00 plus the 70.00 wasted on the kit now...so Im just trying to save someone the same mistake by sharing..

It is impossible for us to conclude our situations would be the same...however I have two heads on my boat and my money now says rebuild if you know the head from day one as new and the day installed....but through it out and start over with new if you dont.

I would/will now yank my other head which is electric and install new if it ever acts up and not bother with an overpriced rebuild kit just because I have no history nor knowlage of the age of it either and now wount risk another rebuild kit down the drain.

I hope that sort of explains my thinking and reasoning a little..to me 350.00 to 600.00 for a guarantee and a fresh start with no headaches for the next few years is money well spent...

But as mentioned inlet water and anti siphon must be verified first..or a new one wont work either...I will check the anti siphon next.

Humbly submitted
Scott
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Old 02-01-2009, 12:53   #17
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If possible, I'd still get in touch with Raritan about the problem. They've helped with a couple of issues (LectraSan that seemed to eat electrode packs, Compact II piston failure) where they either comped me or basically charged just enough to do the paperwork on parts. On the piston, Vic actually came out to the company parking lot (I rode there to get the parts and was getting ready to get back on my motorcycle) to tell me about a couple of details he thought might help. Finest kind!
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Old 02-01-2009, 22:32   #18
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Two quick checks. First, make sure the thru hull is not blocked. Second, make sure the anti siphon is not stuck open. Depending on the head you have, there is a way to prime it. Take loose the hose that runs from the pump to the bowl. Take it loose at the bowl. Fill it with water, then reconnect it, and start pumping. If this does not work, and everything eslse is in order, you likely need a rebuild.
You guessed it. I took the hose loose and filled it with water and now it pumps fine. Thanks to everyone for the input. I'm glad it was something simple. I bought the rebuild kit anyway.
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:45   #19
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Don't be scared of the dunny!

The first time we got a blockage we were so worried we wore masks and snorkels while unscrewing the pipes!

Jabsco are just a lump of plastic, have no fear, just rip them apart.

A new one - on special - is about $220. The repair kit is $80. A new toilet seat over $100.

So don't buy a repair kit get a whole new one instead!

I bought a joker valve at $13 and I think the bottom flange is about the same. But when I ripped out the old ones I found they just needed a really good clean. Use a toothbrush! (NOT your own. The Mrs. )

Its only lime build-up. Its a bit revolting but its easy.

Top replace the pipes as someone mentioned is a great idea as the lime builds up in there too, but you can also bash the likes agaist some concrete and then hose them out.

By the way, and head odor will go when you have done a good job on the dunny. Its your way of knowing.

We want new Jabsoc's and new pipes. Oh just wait till we are in the Third World again where we can get goods for cheap and workers even cheaper!


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Old 03-01-2009, 12:10   #20
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You guessed it. I took the hose loose and filled it with water and now it pumps fine. Thanks to everyone for the input. I'm glad it was something simple. I bought the rebuild kit anyway.
I spoke too soon. I tried pumping it again to day and no water. Its a Groco HF head. Why would I be loosing the suction for water input?

Also, do most of you leave a little water in there or pump it all the way dry everytime? Leaving some water in the bowl might cure my problem.
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Old 03-01-2009, 13:54   #21
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Sounds like an air leak to me. Moving the hose around may have changed things and they've now gone back to "normal" (sucking in air) with the hose in its usual place. Leaving a bit of water in the bowl won't matter much; the problem seems to be on the intake side of the pump, before the bowl.
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