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Old 02-01-2014, 17:08   #61
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3-1/2 days sanding.
The port side is half done.
There was 4 coats ablative paint.
I estimate 3 more days as the detail areas should be time consuming.
Zero blisters on my 1974 Westsail.
After 5 coats of barrier epoxy and 2 coats of Trinidad I should be in good shape.
New Groco valves, thruhulls and many other items have been shipped today by Hopkins Carter Chandelry.
I'm enjoying this experience.
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:25   #62
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Re: Groco SV Seacock Testing Prior to Installation

If I knew you had such a nice boat, I'd have charged you more for the valves! Thanks for the order.

Did you sign up for our Give Away in the Sponsors Forum?
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:38   #63
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Quote:
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If I knew you had such a nice boat, I'd have charged you more for the valves! Thanks for the order. Did you sign up for our Give Away in the Sponsors Forum?

I have a Herreshoff 28 also.
No, I didn't notice the promotion I'll look for it later as I have more to order when I'm ready.
My arms and wrists aren't cutting it today, I better work on something else, save sanding for a better time.
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Old 04-01-2014, 21:55   #64
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Is using a wire wheel on my drill to polish up the male threads on these fittings a good idea?



Thanks for the stocking stuffers HopCar!
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Old 04-01-2014, 22:42   #65
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Re: Groco SV Seacock Testing Prior to Installation

Glad to see everything got there. You shouldn't need to polish the threads. Everything should go together pretty easy.
Thanks again for the order.
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Old 04-01-2014, 23:35   #66
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Re: Groco SV Seacock Testing Prior to Installation

The threads on the fittings are in great shape, everything looks good and well packaged for the delivery to the southernmost city.

I've seen people wire wheel common plumbing pipe threads before so I thought it might not hurt to clean up these bronze threads so they spin on and off real easy or dry fitting purposes.

Probably I'm just nutty but I love my boat.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:17   #67
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Re: Groco SV Seacock Testing Prior to Installation

No, you should not need to do that on new fittings unless they have been damaged or have corroded. You may need to file or grind the ends of the thru hull fittings, once they are cut to length, to make sure that the thread will start easily.

Also, I always clean the surfaces that will have sealant applied (including threads). I use Interlux 202 solvent wash; There is a lot of oil on these parts from manufacturing that would definitely interfere with adhesion of most sealants (pipe dope or teflon tape works fine without cleaning). Keep wiping till a white cloth comes away clean.

Good Luck,
JM.
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Old 05-01-2014, 19:16   #68
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I'd like to add something to MainSail's article that I found usefull and I think it may help others.

I cut my first backing plate today from the thicker 5/8" G-10 epoxy board (Garolite).
I have 7 more to go.

A jigsaw with a carbide blade cut the backing plate just fine and a common bench grinder cleaned up the rough.
I personally didn't want to buy a couple large hole saws of six inch and 5 inch diameter for 3/4 and 1-1/2 inch flange adapters.
I wasn't sure how the hardier epoxy board was going to cut and I for sure didn't want spend money on a extra hole saw or two if they wore out.
They're expensive. Home Depot had a non-carbide 6 inch for about $60 and a 5 inch for about 40.
And I wasn't sure if a non-carbide hole saw would cut the epoxy as MainSail demonstrates using 1/2 polyester resin board which is less hardier than the G-10.
MainSail does recommend as an option using G-10 for the alternate method.
My picture is a 3/4 inch flange adapter with a 5" backing plate.
The carbide blade in my jigsaw cut it in just a few minutes and I spent only 15 seconds on little bench grinder gettting it smooth as is in the picture.
I will make it prettier in the morning.
The carbide blade cost about $7. If I had to buy 3 or 4 it wouldn't be a problem.


Let's see how many I cutoff seven dollars.








http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/backing_blocks
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Old 05-01-2014, 19:55   #69
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Re: Groco SV Seacock Testing Prior to Installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by endoftheroad View Post
Thanks for the stocking stuffers HopCar!
Everything looks good. Hopefully, it won't be too long before I have a table full of new parts too.

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Old 05-01-2014, 19:58   #70
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Re: Groco SV Seacock Testing Prior to Installation

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Originally Posted by NahanniV View Post
No, you should not need to do that on new fittings unless they have been damaged or have corroded. You may need to file or grind the ends of the thru hull fittings, once they are cut to length, to make sure that the thread will start easily.

Also, I always clean the surfaces that will have sealant applied (including threads). I use Interlux 202 solvent wash; There is a lot of oil on these parts from manufacturing that would definitely interfere with adhesion of most sealants (pipe dope or teflon tape works fine without cleaning). Keep wiping till a white cloth comes away clean.

Good Luck,
JM.
When using epoxy to attach the backing plate to the boat, I had the flange and a thru-hull together to put in place. I used wax to keep the epoxy from sticking to the parts. I used the 202 solvent too to clean the wax off the parts. It seems to have worked well.
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Old 05-01-2014, 21:05   #71
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Rhapsody,
I read on your blog the wax that you used but I can't remember the brand.
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Old 05-01-2014, 21:23   #72
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Re: Groco SV Seacock Testing Prior to Installation

I used Meguiar's Mold Release wax. It's a good size can that will have plenty to last a long time.
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Old 05-01-2014, 21:49   #73
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And one other thing while your around.
Where exactly did you find it necessary to apply the way?
Threads of thruhull?
Inside threads of flange adapter?

Thanks
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Old 05-01-2014, 22:03   #74
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Re: Groco SV Seacock Testing Prior to Installation

Yes to both. The threads and the part of the mushroom head that faces the hull and the threads and bottom of the flange.

I recessed the bolts into the base and epoxied in place, rather than through the hull. After applying wax to the parts, I bolted the flange on the base, then put the thru-hull on from the outside. I put the epoxy around the thru-hull on the inside hull then spun the flange into place. I tested with the valve before hand to know which way the handle moved, otherwise, it may not have been able to open/close completely. Once the epoxy cured, I twisted off the thru-hull, unbolted the flange, then cleaned them with the 202 solvent. I also used a dremel to grind away the threads in the epoxy to open up the hole slightly. Sealant sealed it up afterwards.


Here is the posts again for my project. I hope it helps visualize what I am describing. Pretty much went off of Maine Sails instructions on his site.
Rhapsody: Raw Water Seacock, Installed!
Rhapsody: Seacock Project - Complete

~Daniel
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Old 06-01-2014, 18:34   #75
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FWIW;
I was able to saw all 8 of my backing plates (five 6" and three 5") using only 1 Ridgid Carbide bit from Home Depot costing $7.
And a humble bench grinder very easily shaped the backing plates into very round and beveled circles.
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