Frigoboat on the Hard = Problema !

[RussCo]

Hello everyone just joined up . We have a frigoboat type W fridge and freezer in a Beneteau Oceanis. The boat was hauled out about 10 days ago and we simply plugged in and left the fridge on, freezer off. This was obviously not the thing to do as I now find out that this system uses a sea water pump. So the fridge quit and will not restart. It has been back in the water now for a week. The freezer kicks in OK, the pump is working, but no action on the fridge. Have been fiddling around with it for a couple of days without luck . I am really bad with electrics but suspect the pump relay, or the electronic controller, but have no clue how to narrow it down. Or, is there a reset button somewhere that I have not located? Mucho appreciate some advice with this. Thanks, Russell

[senormechanico]

Find the model number of the unit and do an internet search for a troubleshooting page.
The internet is an amazing thing.

I fixed my Chrysler's automatic transmission this way.
Several shops quoted me $1200 or more.
I fixed it for $30 after buying a couple of screw in sensors on Ebay.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

[senormechanico]

Here's an electrical diagram:
Click on the pic three times to make it really big.

[s/v Jedi]

You have no clue if the pump is running or not or if there is water flow or not? I advice you to get real intimate with every pump, thru-hull fitting and valve on your boat and learn exactly what each is meant for and how to diagnose their correct function. Hire an engineer to come and teach you.

cheers,
Nick.

[Richard Kollmann]

RussCo, You need to go through a standard Danfoss BD trouble shooting test although running any water condenser without adequate water cooling can cause serious problems. First I would eliminate pump control circuit and relay by disconnecting electrical ground wire from Danfoss’s electronic module terminal F. If, with no wire connected to F terminal compressor runs problem is with pump relay circuit. If compressor still does not run with wire removed fron F terminal Follow my standard troubleshooting instructions below.

Troubleshooting 12 volt Danfoss BD compressors.

There are two different series of Danfoss BD 12 volt compressors the older fixed speed and the newer variable speed . If the refrigeration unit is over 10 years old and has a Danfoss BD 2 or BD2.5 or BD3 compressor then it has the older fixed speed discontinued electronic 4 pin module. Troubleshooting Danfoss compressors with 4 pin modules consists of the following steps:

1. All of these compressors have a 4 pin module connector and their modules contain a replaceable fuse. If this fuse is blown there are two reasons why either power wires to module are reversed or module has an internal failure.

2. Check to see that there is actually power at the refrigerator control module.

3. Place jumper wire across thermostat terminals on electronic module, Compressor still does not run go to next step.

4. Disconnect black fan wire from electronic module, Compressor runs, replace fan. Compressor still does not run after fan ground wire is disconnected, go to next step.

5. Run correct size and correct polarity jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value when looking for voltage spikes. Compressor still does not run electronic module needs to be removed and tested on another unit. If there are no other units available to test your module on I will test all 12 volt Danfoss control modules free except for BD80 compressor modules. Email me for shipping address and details. richard@kollmann-marine.com

Small 12/24 volt boat refrigeration units using Danfoss BD compressors manufactured after 1996 will have a BD 35 or BD 50 variable speed compressor with a troubleshooting computer chip built into control module. This circuit makes them easier to find troubled area if compressor fails to run. If this unit does not have this $2 LED install one. Without the LED on these new units troubleshooting will be the same as earlier 4 pin Danfoss BD compressors.

Trouble shooting LED will only flash if electronic module sees a compressor problem. In each case problems of compressor’s failures to run are identified by counting number of flashes of LED:
• No LED flashes would indicate either thermostat is open or no power to module.
• One LED flash and a 4 second pause indicates a non Danfoss wiring electrical resistance problem or low batteries. Because of module’s sensitiveity to milliseconds of a voltage spike they cannot be detected by a voltmeter. Solution is to bypass power wiring till resistance problem is located.
• Two LED flashes indicates fan over current cutout. If fan circuit on these variable speed compressors exceeds ½ amp compressor start up will be aborted. This condition can be confirmed by disconnecting Black fan wire at module, if compressor runs replace fan.
• Three LED flashes indicate excessive torque is required to start compressor. This is commonly caused by turning compressor off and back on too quickly or too much refrigerant or poor condenser cooling. Most people jump to the conclusion that there is a mechanical rotor lock up inside compressor and this is a mistake on Danfoss BD compressors.
• Four LED flashes indicate compressor motor not reaching sustained controlling speed above 1,850 rpm quick enough.

If someone has tampered with refrigerant by connecting gauges to a system letting air in or adding too much refrigerant can cause either a Three or Four LED flashing signal. On water cooled Danfoss condenser systems three and four LED signals are common when seawater gets into refrigerant circuit.

[RussCo]

Thanks guys. I have established that although the sea water pump is running, there is no water flowing. Seems that it needs priming manually as it is located above the water line. Maybe this will bring the compressor back to life. It might have shut down just because of overheating? I have done the simple troubleshooting suggested by frigoboat also but will move on to your troubleshooting Richard after priming the pump. I really would have thought however that somewhere there would be a statement: If you run your fridge without a sea water supply the result will be ..............?

[r.furborough]

most raw water pumps, including magnetically couple like those used for air conditioning and refrigeration do not like to be run dry. You probably will need to replace the impeller or at least the wet end on the pump to correct this problem.

[RussCo]

OK after more fiddling around yesterday that sounds quite possible as I cannot get the pump primed at all. I actually think the previous owner left a spare on the boat so will change it out if it is the correct pump. Also have found that the fuse in the control module is blown even though it looks fine. Have had to order one so will know if this brings the system back to life later. Thanks.

[Bash]

Originally Posted by RussCo

Also have found that the fuse in the control module is blown even though it looks fine. Have had to order one so will know if this brings the system back to life later. Thanks.

Don't order one. Order a handful.

Be thankful if this exercise only cost you a circulation pump and a fuse. The suggestion made previously that you hire someone to go through the boat's systems with you is a good one. If you honestly expect an owners manual to warn you not to run a water-cooled system when the boat is out of the water, you could be making some hugely expensive mistakes in the future.

[RussCo]

Yes Mr. Bash, I will be thankful, and I did order extra fuses.

[Richard Kollmann]

There is a high probability that once water stopped flowing unit shut down on high amperage repeatedly when failing attempts to start compressor this then caused electronic control module to fail. Module failure will be confirmed if new fuse also blows. The only other time I have seen module fuses blow is when module power wires are connected with reverse polarity.

[RussCo]

Thanks everybody. The new fuse in the module did the trick. I did strip and inspect the wet end of the water pump, but it looked fine, and as I had it removed I pulled all the slack I could in the lines to bring it as low as possible and it then primed up. I am going to remount it lower down. Judging from all the old mounting holes in the bulkhead there's been issues with this in the past. Hopefully the beer is cold when I get back down there today.