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Old 01-10-2008, 09:56   #16
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Thanks Ex.

Despite my cavalier attitude I maintain a strict policy of "measure 9 times, cut 3, and never call any job done until I've redone the whole bloody thing at least twice"

I am a little nervous about the "refridgerant carries the lubricant" comment because I ran the compressor for 2+ hours. I wanted to give it time to build up some cold if that was in the cards. It did not. But it was still humming along quietly when I decided the experiment was done.

At this point I am really unclear how to proceed but its not a technical issue so much as finance and priorities. I've got very little time left... I will let you guys know what direction I go.

Thanks,
J
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Old 01-10-2008, 12:20   #17
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Jack,

I admire your tenacity, and never give up spirit!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-10-2008, 12:29   #18
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I am not sure which of these two I am- but thank you.
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Old 01-10-2008, 13:14   #19
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You're the frog. The mouse will eventually be eaten, but at least the frog is in a standoff, and most likely will survive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-10-2008, 18:33   #20
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Jack, deciding to replace will really depend on what you want for usage. If it's critical to have it work, replace the whole thing. If it's something you will just use a few times per year, have a technician recharge the unit. Probably cost around $300 in SF, $150 here in Michigan. What I'd be interested in is if you replace, do you go with a 12v system or engine driven or 110v. I need a lot of ice and wonder what system would make ice in trays the best. Is there a thread about the best system of refrigeration on a boat which is used typically away from shorepower?
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Old 01-10-2008, 20:14   #21
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I can expand a little on our system just to give a point of reference. As I mentioned in a post above, we had a domestic 110 volt system converted to a 12 volt system by changing to a Danfoss compressor but using the existing plumbing and cold plates. All in it cost us $800 including the new compressor, I don't know what the cost would be now.

The compressor drives 2 cold plates, one for a 2 cubic foot freezer and the other for a 6.5 cubic foot refrigerator. The thermostat dial on the refrigerator has a scale from 0 to 7, set at 3 it keeps the fridge at the right temperature and everything frozen in the freezer, including ice cream, and makes ice cubes quickly. If we turn it up past 3 the whole fridge starts to turn into a freezer and freeze everything.

We live aboard full time and we spend 80 to 100 days per year off the dock on the hook, in 80+ degree weather the unit draws a total of about 48 amps in a 24 hour period according to our Link 2000. Our system is front loading for live aboard convenience, if it was top loading I think it would be even more efficient.

The unit has worked perfectly for 8 years with no repairs or maintenance required. Hope this helps.
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