Fridge Kit Installation

[mickmul]

Hi All, I am planning to turn a top loading uninsulated "cool space" (cooled by a makeshift heat exchanger) to a dedicated fridge area. The two common makes sold this side of the pond are Waeco and Isotherm, and the compressor can be mounted about 2M away from the heat exchange plate. Anyone out there fit one, and if so any pitfalls? I also came across (on another thread here) a U.S. product called Reflectix which seems to have good thermal reflective properties as well as maintaining all of the available space in the coolbox. Any thoughts greatly appreciated! Fair winds, Mick

[GordMay]

I don’t recommend Reflective Radiant Barriers, as an efficacious refrigeration insulation strategy. A reflective radiant barrier must be installed facing an air space.
Check out the RIMA Manual (linked below) then ask any remaining questions.

Understanding and Using Reflective Insulation, Radiant Barriers And Radiation Control
http://www.reflectixinc.com/PDF/RIMA_Handbook.pdf

[mickmul]

Thanks Gord, that will take a while to read!! the insulation not installation is my big worry, wan't to get it right as there's only so much ampage to go around . . thanks again, Mick

[camaraderie]

The Waeco/Adler Barbours are decent low cost units that are easily installed and well supported.

[irwinsailor]

I installed a new isotherm last spring. Nothing to it!

[bill good]

I installed Waeco units Fan force for the frezer & evap plate for fridg. Both ok after 4yrs. I think the Fan force unit is the best if you can fit.

Regards Bill Goodward

[Tnflakbait]

Originally Posted by irwinsailor

I installed a new isotherm last spring. Nothing to it!

Which one did you get? How is the powerdraw? I am looking into isotherm as well.

[irwinsailor]

http://www.isotherm.com/en/index.html?fixframe=1&


I think it was this one. It was the largest 10 volt that they had and it had a flat evaporator.

[mickmul]

Next question - how do you insulate a basic plywood/veneered chipboard cool box area to the thermal requirements needed for installation of these evaporation units? i imagine aeroboard or similar insulation glassed over? There will be meat juice leakages etc so insulation with cleaning ability would seem to be a must? Refrigeration kit sets and sellers of same don't seem to have these solutions as an add on . . really no point in installing an inefficient power draw. . portable coolbox drawing 4 amps can only be effective when engine in powering same . . units seem easily fitted but insulation still seems to be the holy grail. . .

[GordMay]

I recommend a minimum of 4" (100mm) of high quality rigid Polyurethane Foam insulation (XEPS) for Refrigerators, and 6" (150mm) for Freezers. A Polyurethane board offers about 50% better insulaton than Polystyrene “Bead Board” (MEPS) of the same thickness.

Class 1 Polyurethane Foam (1.9 lb to 2.2 lb per cubic foot density) will have a “K” factor of < 0.16 BTU/H/Sq.Ft.̊F/In.
4" = R-25.0 (stabilized)
6" = R-37.5

Class 1, rigid Expanded Polystyrene (1.0 lb per cubic foot density) will have a “K” factor of < 0.24 BTU/H/Sq.Ft.̊F/In.
4" = R-16.7
6" = R-25.0

“K” factor = Thermal Conductivity (lower is better)
“R” value = Thermal Insulation (higher is better)

I believe that “Aerobord” may be a less desirable Expanded/Molded Polystyrene type rigid insulation.

[mickmul]

Thanks again Gord, you are the proverbial mine of info! I'll raise a cold beer to you on completion!

[senormechanico]

Whatever you decide on, if it's an air cooled condenser make sure it's getting a great supply of cool air. IOW, don't install it in a locker without a bunch of ventilation, and whatever you do, DON'T stick it in the engine compartment. A water cooled unit won't particularly care about where it's installed, but they have their own set of needs.

I've had both kinds.

Steve B.

[mickmul]

Thanks Steve, I have a choice - louvred pot and pan locker next to coolbox (should have good air supply) or under saloon seating which I would ventilate from the vertical fore and aft underseat support. Second option may not be the prettiest. . .

[spyrate]

new to this forum but it seems as if i might get some good info here. i have a 1964 pearson vanguard 32. new to this boat also. it seems to have at some point had some kind of refrigeration or cold plate built in, as there are cut outs side and back for what looks like compressors or evaporators, but were removed and sealed? before i got her. im wondering a few things, so here goes :
1- ice box is near motor and im not sure what kind of insulation i have all around, i dont really want to redesign icebox location, so if any one knows what kind of and how well the insulation i have works it would save me some digging.
2- I plan eventually to do some serious cruising (carribean and possibly beyond) so i would like lower cost and lower mantainence options for cold plate or refrigeration systems. ie. manufacturers and suppliers, also any personal experiences.
3- In the midst of this project I am also adding more batteries and rewiring and would like suggestions on baterry size and type and good ways to combine multiple charging options. I have right now 1 solar panel putting out about 2 a/h full sun, a honda 2000 watt portable generator(great to have) and I believe the original atomic 4 gas motor that i have recently reworked (not sure of alternator output probably standard 14V?)
answers to any and all of these questions would be much appreciated, thanks

[mickmul]

Hi Spyrate, Welsome to the forum! Other maintenance issues (fixing cracks found in spreaders) have taken precedence over the refrigeration project for me, so I'm a bit out of the loop . . however, I have just installed 2 x 6 volt deep cycle batteries in series and parallelled them to the house battery - this has transformed the available power, and time away from the boat is handled with a Rutland 913 wind generator that keeps them topped off... hope this helps, best regards, Mick