Fridge grouting - sounds like a fountain inside

[sail50]

A new finding - my dometic fridge is grouting now and its not cooling at all. possible issues?

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by sail50

A new finding - my dometic fridge is grouting now and its not cooling at all. possible issues?

Grouting would sound like refrigerator is in pain. A hissing sound inside box and no cooling could indicate a loss of refrigerant. Are you sure that unit inside box doesn't even have a small cold area on it. What is the history of this unit and when and how was it defrosted the last time?

[Sailmonkey]

Grouting? Like the stuff between tiles?

[Typhoon]

I think he means growling . Grrrr

Strange sound for a fridge , it should hiss . Are you sure it is not coming from behind the fridge , or the compressor . Possibly its the compressor trying to start. Give us more information and we may be able to help.

Regards John.

[Bean Counter]

Not cooling:
In order of expense you may need to replace

1.Thermostat
2.Controller Board
3.Compressor

[sail50]

Fan working, compressor is running. The sound is like water cascading. Dometic RSD-115. 10 years old. Was running/cycling 24/7 for a couple of years until now. After turning power off via breaker or thermostat the water fall noise continuous for 5 minutes. Thank you

[sail50]

Compressor is dangoss 35

[sail50]

Upss dan foss 35

[sail50]

It was hissing but i thought (wrong) that it was the inverter. How would I know if compelressor was damaged running without refrigerant?

[Richard Kollmann]

Now that we know that compressor is variable speed is it equipped with a troubleshooting LED? If so is it flashing?
To confirm compressor is running does it get warm?
Yes. compressor does run its warm and a very slight vibration with no cooling.
A poor ground can cause this problem on variable speed units but because unit is 10 years old I believe loss of refrigerant would be a good guess. With out refrigerant compressor will draw less than 3 amps can you get an amp reading?

[Bean Counter]

Try this link, there are also U tubes on the issue
http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/assets...0Diagnosis.pdf

[sail50]

Replaced controller and the resistor. Fan on, compressor on then shuts down. Compressor is warm, no temperature change inside the box. It runs for about 5-8 minutes. Bad thermostat? or needs freon?

[OzePete]

If you hear a sound like trickling water inside the fridge when the compressor runs, it is most unlikely a gas problem. If your compressor only runs for a few minutes try these steps:
1:Check DC voltage-in on the compressors electronic unit, both with compressor off AND when it runs or tries to run.
A: If the voltage is low, or if the voltage is OK but drops away more than say half a volt at start up attempt, then check the power supply, terminals, wiring and batteries. (An amp meter reading when attempting to start would be useful. If the amps go way above normal then the compressor may be mechanically stuck.). If the voltage is OK and there is little dip upon a start attempt then go to step 2.

2: Bridge the lowest and third lowest terminals and power up. (These terminals C & T on Secop, Danfoss and most other compressors, are the thermostat switch)
A: If the compressor starts and runs normally, leave the bridge in place and run manually until you can replace the thermostat. (YOU become the thermostat!) If still not running go to step 3.

3: Remove both fan wires from electronic unit and attempt a start.
A: If this allows the compressor to run, replace fan. Note.. fan should not exceed 6 watts. If still not running go to step 4.

4: Remove electronic unit from the compressor revealing three terminal pins on the compressor. Use a multi-meter to check resistance between each combination of two pins (of the three) and from these pins to the compressor case (Ground)
A: The resistances should be uniform at approx 2.0 Ohms for BD50, 2.3 Ohms for BD35. Others may have different Ohms readings but OK if they are all similar. If there is no reading or a much higher reading between the pins or if there is leakage to the ground then the compressor is dead. If the readings are OK the compressor is most likely OK so go to step 5.

5. Replace the electronic unit.

I hope this helps..
Cheers, Ozepete from Ozefridge.com.au

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by sail50

Replaced controller and the resistor. Fan on, compressor on then shuts down. Compressor is warm, no temperature change inside the box. It runs for about 5-8 minutes. Bad thermostat? or needs freon?

Compressor runs less than 10 minutes, does fan quit running also? It is very unusual for compressor to feel warm in less than 10 minutes. Replaced control module so you know module was not the problem.

The problem is not likely thermostat unless fan also stop running. Loss of refrigerant will not prevent compressor from running. If this unit has a AC/DC converter bypass it and run module on another 12 volt connection to eliminate converter.

With variable speed BD compressors any dirty electrical power pulses from boat's power grid can trigger the conditions you describe. Noise you discribe in inventor could case electrical phase disturbance in module.


If your unit has a trouble LED is it flashing? These LED trouble lights can eliminate costly shotgun type troubleshooting methods.