Now that's interesting, Richard. This is how I went about your fix, and maybe I did something wrong. I disconnected all the wires from the board, I think about eight. The little three pin plug
was still connected to circuit board. I looked at a schematic that I had of the unit and found the terminals C&T which seemed to bypass the stat, and made up a jumper lead. I then connected up to the positive and negative tabs a wire that came from the old fridge feed that showed a DC voltage of just under 12 volts, about 11.8, I think. Now I know you said to not use any of the boats wiring
, but I didn't have a battery that I could easily use so thought this would do, is this where I went wrong? Also the tab that the positive wire goes to has suffered from corrosion
, or a bad arcing connection that has burned it out and left very little of it to connect to so I connected to it with a small crocodile clip crimped to the end of the positive wire, I am trying, and like you would love not to throw away a whole unit just because a bit of it has broken down.
The thing is if I'm not hearing any running noise
, even with a screwdriver on it and pressed to my ear, and no apparent cooling going on, so should I spend money
on a new module, which I suppose is the electronic bits that used to be in the steel
housing, only to find that it really is broken beyond repair.
Thanks for any other advice you could give me, I really don't want to spend almost a thousand dollars if I don't have to.