Disconnecting & connecting propane appliance

[boatman61]

Its likely to be 6mm copper tube.. what we call micro bore over here.. if you cannot break the union at the appliance then I would recommend you check your plumbing/gas stores for a soldered connector of the appropriate size before cutting the pipe.. should be readily available..
To refit clean both sections of the pipe and the inside of the connector with fine grit wet and dry.. apply a bit of flux (cheap) slide both in place and solder..
Only heat enough till you see the solder in the connector run round the edges.. do not over cook to make it drip.. the joint will likely leak.

PS: to check for leaks use a strong soapy water solution and brush over the joint when cool.. if leaking it will bubble.

[JiminVA]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

From a certified high pressure gas tech:


If you are attaching and detaching a RH thread, then you need to replumb your system. Only the fitting at the tank (LH thread) should be remove on a recharge.

Delmarrey, are you saying that if I unscrew the hose at the appliance, then when I want to reattach it, I have to completely remove the old hose and run a new hose from the propane locker to the appliance in the galley?

Just to be clear, this is a standard rubber propane hose with threaded metal fittings at each end. the fitting at the appliance was installed with pipe sealant. I am only planning on detaching the connection at the appliance (not the propane locker).

thanks,
Jim

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by JiminVA

Delmarrey, are you saying that if I unscrew the hose at the appliance, then when I want to reattach it, I have to completely remove the old hose and run a new hose from the propane locker to the appliance in the galley?

Just to be clear, this is a standard rubber propane hose with threaded metal fittings at each end. the fitting at the appliance was installed with pipe sealant. I am only planning on detaching the connection at the appliance (not the propane locker).

thanks,
Jim

LOL.. cancel the above advice.. all the talk about flaring the cut pipe led me to assume it was copper
If you've enough play then cut the rubber tube flush with the fitting end in the tube.. peel off the remaining bit and clean well.. then when you refit apply a recommended sealant, push on and clamp in place..
Leak test procedure is the same.

[Rustic Charm]

Dude, i had the same problem. I just got a small hand held blow torch from Jaycar, the sort they use in cooking, i used this on the nut, being careful not to heat the rubber. Just enough to crack it with the spanner.

When i put it back together i just got some $10 gas rated sealer from Bunnings. Over this way the ptfe tape is pink for gas. But i went with the sealer because it was easy.

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by boatman61

Its likely to be 6mm copper tube.. what we call micro bore over here.. if you cannot break the union at the appliance then I would recommend you check your plumbing/gas stores for a soldered connector of the appropriate size before cutting the pipe.. should be readily available..
To refit clean both sections of the pipe and the inside of the connector with fine grit wet and dry.. apply a bit of flux (cheap) slide both in place and solder..
Only heat enough till you see the solder in the connector run round the edges.. do not over cook to make it drip.. the joint will likely leak.

PS: to check for leaks use a strong soapy water solution and brush over the joint when cool.. if leaking it will bubble.

Scary! run from this advise!! Propane IS NEVER soldered ( not even in residential usage) and is never copper any longer. you should be able to break the fitting loose, just make sure that you support the appliance end while you break the connection loose.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by pcmm

Scary! run from this advise!! Propane IS NEVER soldered ( not even in residential usage) and is never copper any longer. you should be able to break the fitting loose, just make sure that you support the appliance end while you break the connection loose.

I think your right with the soldering comment but your entirely wrong with your 'is never copper any longer' ive just had a gas fitter expect my vessel and give me a list of everything i need to do to bring it up to scratch. My non lagged copper has to be replaced with 'lagged 3/8 copper'.

And what do you propose instead of copper? I wasn't given any options.

[sailorchic34]

The safe engineering solution, A dry break quick coupling.

http://www.snap-titequickdisconnects.com/products/construction_mobile/index.html.

But I would be Leary of using it below deck in any case.

Copper pipe in the USA anyway, is still allowed by building code. Solder is not allowed, but brazing, above 1000 degrees F is.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

The safe engineering solution, A dry break quick coupling.

http://www.snap-titequickdisconnects.com/products/construction_mobile/index.html.

But I would be Leary of using it below deck in any case.

Copper pipe in the USA anyway, is still allowed by building code. Solder is not allowed, but brazing, above 1000 degrees F is.

Sailorchic, that link is for 'hydrolic' connectors, not LP Gas

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by pcmm

Scary! run from this advise!! Propane IS NEVER soldered ( not even in residential usage) and is never copper any longer. you should be able to break the fitting loose, just make sure that you support the appliance end while you break the connection loose.

I guess you must be American.. there's a lot of stuff that's evil over there.. all the way to simple over the counter medications that I'd need a prescription for in the US..

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

Sailorchic, that link is for 'hydrolic' connectors, not LP Gas

True, but rated to 4000 psig should be more then adequate. Plus hydraulic fluid is a mineral oil base.

From a strick engineering standpoint, the parker fittings would work.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by boatman61

I guess you must be American.. there's a lot of stuff that's evil over there.. all the way to simple over the counter medications that I'd need a prescription for in the US..

I don't know about the rest of Europe Boaty, but soldering gas fittings is not acceptable anywhere in the UK either, nor Australia or New Zealand.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

True, but rated to 4000 psig should be more then adequate. Plus hydraulic fluid is a mineral oil base.

From a strick engineering standpoint, the parker fittings would work.

Yes maybe im just at a loss to taking any chances with LPG. And even on deck if they fail, then you have LPG entering the boat looking to hide in the bilges, secreted and waiting fir my automatic bilge pump to come on.

My system is not legal, but when i re-do my galley next year i'm doing it professionally and legally. Not to be 'legal' alone, but for safety. There are just way too many deaths occuring through LPG and CO accidents. And as an after thought if i have a fire on board i suspect my insurer will only cover me if i have that expnsive certificate of compliance.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

I don't know about the rest of Europe Boaty, but soldering gas fittings is not acceptable anywhere in the UK either, nor Australia or New Zealand.

Things must have changed greatly since I was in the trade then..

PS: Quick check proves they have not.. check your facts Rustic.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by boatman61

Things must have changed greatly since I was in the trade then..

PS: Quick check proves they have not.. check your facts Rustic.

I will supply you the UK standards which I quickly found earlier Boaty, i have to go move some sheep for now. But your pasting of a photo with fittings you can readily purchase in any hardware store has nothing to do with what we are discussing.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

I will supply you the UK standards which I quickly found earlier Boaty, i have to go move some sheep for now. But your pasting of a photo with fittings you can readily purchase in any hardware store has nothing to do with what we are discussing.

I'll do that myself mate.. Midland Gas were the regional Gas Board I used to work for doing trace and repair work.. see what the currents regs are.. but back in the 80's these fittings were the norm as we pulled out old lead pipes and replaced them with copper.
Mind.. if their use is illegal/unsafe they would not be on the market for DIY folks to buy.