Cleaning the Fresh Water System

[STG]

I shocked my system in February after I got the boat (not knowing what was in there) and after a few weeks I had the same bad taste/smell problems as the OP. (Including the water run through my Brita). It was hit and miss with each refill as to what it would be like after I filled the tanks. In the end, it was as Peggy said. I found out it was the water sitting in the dock hose that was doing it.

Now I make sure I drain the water as I roll the hose to hang, so nothing is sitting in it. Then, as Peggy suggested, I let the hose run for 3-5 minutes before filling the tanks. Haven’t had a bad taste problem since (for the last few months) and I fill two 40 gallon tanks every 5 days. Not sure if it was “critters” or more likely just the water sitting in the rubber hose, but it tastes fine now. (Or perhaps I have just learned to like it)?

[lockie]

I have suffered from gooey water in the fibreglass keel tank of my yacht, and I used bleach countless times in high, medium and low concentrations, but the goo always returned. I also tried vinegar, but the taste was awful, so I more or less gave up.

Then I thought I'd try a proprietary treatment product for potable water tanks (aimed at country people using rain water tanks). It contains hydrogen peroxide and traces of silver ions, and is a complete success.

Here in Oz, I get enough to treat 15,000 litres for $40. So phone your local water treatment company and stop trying to reinvent the wheel.

lockie

[zeehag]

dont DRINK the vinegar--ye gots to let the tanks fill as ye drain them after the treatment-- i never have a vinegar flavor to my water--is clean and pure and fresh....from tank and from jerry jugs i also treated...

[Astrid]

...although an oz of vinegar diluted with as much water as needed to make palatable is actually good for you. It is a good remedy for staving off heat stroke and has been in use since ancient times.

[off-the-grid]

I just did this again recently, and I'm still kicking, so maybe I'm worrying too much about nothing, but...

Is it really necessary to make chlorine solution vs. just pouring the correct amount of bleach for the entire tank directly in and then filling? Especially on smaller tanks, that only take a few minutes to fill? I'd think the bleach would get mixed enough, just from water pouring in on top of it.

Would doing a second flush be a good idea, to compensate for the little bit of water in the bottom of the tanks, that's impossible to get out with the pump?

[zeehag]

grouch--use vinegar so ye dont have to do it every 6 months. vinegar actually WORKS. bleach doesnt WORK.

[Curmudgeon]

I use white vinegar to clean the head and the water system. But next time I'll try Ouzo.

Alternatively you could use another type of liquor (Vodka?) if you don't like the licorice flavor of the Ouzo.

I also recommend a product called Aquabon, sold at many marine supply stores. It won't clean or flush the system, but it makes the water taste better.

[Capitain Mike]

Originally Posted by Curmudgeon

I use white vinegar to clean the head and the water system. But next time I'll try Ouzo.

Alternatively you could use another type of liquor (Vodka?) if you don't like the licorice flavor of the Ouzo.

I also recommend a product called Aquabon, sold at many marine supply stores. It won't clean or flush the system, but it makes the water taste better.

Ouzo works Better it even cleaned diesel out of my small water tank pumps and lines (Error in diesel input ) we all make mistakes
lol (highly flustered at the time but spotted quickly) Ouzo Tip was given to me by a Chandler in Lefkada Greece. The Ouzo flavour does not stay there long.

[DJBrookster]

Originally Posted by zeehag

grouch--use vinegar so ye dont have to do it every 6 months. vinegar actually WORKS. bleach doesnt WORK.

Zee, really want to try this vinegar thing. X

[DJBrookster]

Originally Posted by zeehag

grouch--use vinegar so ye dont have to do it every 6 months. vinegar actually WORKS. bleach doesnt WORK.

DOH! Is it normal malt vinegar? What concentration? Cheers in anticipation.

[Capitain Mike]

Originally Posted by peghall

Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.”

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles (which includes boats). The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated.

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/4 cup (2 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (Simpler way to calculate: 1 quart bleach/50 gal water tank capacity)

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.
To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep water flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the same critters that like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to transfer water that's been sitting in the dock supply line to your boat's system. So let the water run long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main.

Finally, while the molds, fungi and bacteria in onboard water systems here in the US may not be pleasant, we're dealing only with aesthetics...water purity isn't an issue here--or in most developed nations...the water supply has already been purified (unless you're using well-water). However, when cruising out of the country, it's a good idea to know what you're putting in your tanks...and if you're in any doubt, boil all water that's to be drunk or used to wash dishes, and/or treat each tankful to purify. It's even more important in these areas to let the water run before putting it in the tank, because any harmful bacteria will REALLY proliferate in water hoses left sitting on the dock.

All very well buy not very Eco Friendly and bleach also kills your rubber seals, Clean with Ouzo a bit more expensive than bleach but works extremely well

[off-the-grid]

Originally Posted by zeehag

grouch--use vinegar so ye dont have to do it every 6 months. vinegar actually WORKS. bleach doesnt WORK.

But I have this giant bottle of bleach I need to use up

Maybe I'll try it next time. Is it the same process as with the bleach? What's the ratio of vinegar to water?

[Curmudgeon]

I use Heinz distilled white vinegar. In the head (electric fresh water head) every couple of weeks I put in one cup, flush, then put in a second cup and flush again. With the water tanks (I have two 50 gal stainless steel tanks) I put in about a quart per tank, let it sit for a day or two, then flush and fill. I've done this once in the last two years, and the tanks seem to be fine. Once again, I use the Aquabon product which keeps the water smelling fresh.

I also use Heinz white vinegar in my Hungarian cucumber salad.

[mrm]

There is another chemical which is very good for mold, bacteria and mildew control and removal in water systems - Anthium Dioxcide.

http://www.hacco.com/Cleaner_Disinfe...cimenLabel.pdf

It has a nice property of dissolving biofilm and deals well with systems which had been neglected somewhat. It also does not form any residue of its own.

One curious thing is, that in the USA the FDA strictly prohibits use of this chemical for use in human drinking water systems, while Europe (and the rest of the world afaik) has no such restrictions and uses this stuff to disinfect whole food processing plants, equipment, water and all.

I thought I'd mention it because it is quite potent and easy in application.

[Capitain Mike]

I read your .pdf

http://www.hacco.com/Cleaner_Disinfe...cimenLabel.pdf

and I don't think I will be using it but thanks for input.
Stick with the old fashioned recipes they are far safer, they work, they are cheap and eco friendly even gin ouzo vinegar etc have no biohazard and Anthium Chloride is A LARGE HAZARD TO ANIMALS WATER COURSES FISH ETC. Read your own pdf again.

Anthium Chloride is a trade name not an individual item/chemical

Stabilized Chlorine Dioxide
DuPont offers a large group of stabilized products under the trade names Anthium Dioxcide®, Carnebon® 200 and Cryocide®.

Each of these is EPA approved and carries ANSI/NSF Standard 60 drinking water additive certification. DuPont also supplies a line of Endimal® stabilized chlorine dioxide products for non-pesticidal applications. All stabilized CLO2 solutions, are offered in 5-gallon pails, 55-gallon drums, 275-gallon totes, and in tank truck quantities to suit customer's particular requirements.

Chlorine dioxide is less corrosive than chlorine and superior for the control of legionella bacteria.

Chlorine dioxide is superior to some other secondary water disinfection methods in that chlorine dioxide:

1) is an EPA registered biocide,
2) is not negatively impacted by pH 3)
does not lose efficacy over time (the bacteria will not grow resistant to it) and
4) is not negatively impacted by silica and phosphate, which are commonly used potable water corrosion inhibitors.

Some unscrupulous biocide manufacturers will state that their product is EPA registered as a biocide. All EPA registered biocides must have a product label that is supplied with the product. This label will contain specifications as far as the product's EPA registration. EPA will register certain products as a general biocide, but others will have specifications for what bacteria the product can protect against.

For instance, although chlorine dioxide is a registered biocide, it is not registered to protect against Legionella. If a biocide is sold without an EPA approved biocide label that is because the product is not registered as an EPA approved biocide.

It is more effective as a disinfectant than chlorine in most circumstances against water borne pathogenic microbes such as viruses, bacteria and protozoa – including the cysts of Giardia and the oocysts of Cryptosporidium.

The use of chlorine dioxide in water treatment leads to the formation of the by-product chlorite, which is currently limited to a maximum of 1 ppm in drinking water in the USA. This EPA standard limits the use of chlorine dioxide in the USA to relatively high quality water or water, which is to be treated with iron based coagulants (Iron can reduce chlorite to chloride).[citation needed]

It can also be used for air disinfection and was the principal agent used in the decontamination of buildings in the United States after the 2001 anthrax attacks. After the disaster of Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans, Louisiana and the surrounding Gulf Coast, chlorine dioxide has been used to eradicate dangerous mold from houses inundated by the flood-water.

Chlorine dioxide is used as an oxidant for phenol destruction in waste water streams, control of zebra and quagga mussels in water intakes and for odor control in the air scrubbers of animal byproduct (rendering) plants.

"Stabilized chlorine dioxide" is used in an oral rinse to treat oral disease and malodor. This term is a misnomer, referring simply to sodium chlorite, not chlorine dioxide.