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Old 14-02-2016, 20:54   #31
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Re: Cleaning S/S water tanks

To cut a port, use a Saws-All reciprocating saw with speed control. The blade will get hot at full speed and SS tends to build up on cutting edges with heat. You could cut dry and stay slow or speed it up and use water to cool the blade. Once the port is cut, use a shop vac to remove the chips. Maybe you can find one of those Stainless magnets. If you place the port over the lowest part of the tank, the chips can be flushed to your pick-up point. You can buy suitable gasket materials & sealer from McMaster Carr. Our tanks have studs welded to the top so the ports fit over the studs. If your tanks are thick enough you can tap the holes. Consider tapped holes with hex bolts inserted from inside so the heads are tight to the inside of the tank.
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Old 15-02-2016, 00:29   #32
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Re: Cleaning S/S water tanks

From Article: Selection of stainless steels for handling chlorine (Cl2) and chlorine dioxide (ClO2)

Chlorine as a sterlizing or sanitising agent

When using chlorine as a sterilizer or sanitiser in contact with 316 type stainless steel items, a maximum of 15-20 ppm (mg/lt) 'free' chlorine is suggested, for maximum times of 24 hours, followed by a thorough chlorine free water flush.
As with any additions, thorough dilution around the injection point is important to avoid localised 'over-concentration' problems.

Residual chlorine levels in waters of 2ppm maximum for 304 and 5ppm for 316 types should not normally be considered a crevice corrosion hazard.
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Old 17-02-2016, 02:20   #33
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Re: Cleaning S/S water tanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by dlymn View Post
From Article: Selection of stainless steels for handling chlorine (Cl2) and chlorine dioxide (ClO2)

Chlorine as a sterlizing or sanitising agent

When using chlorine as a sterilizer or sanitiser in contact with 316 type stainless steel items, a maximum of 15-20 ppm (mg/lt) 'free' chlorine is suggested, for maximum times of 24 hours, followed by a thorough chlorine free water flush.
As with any additions, thorough dilution around the injection point is important to avoid localised 'over-concentration' problems.

Residual chlorine levels in waters of 2ppm maximum for 304 and 5ppm for 316 types should not normally be considered a crevice corrosion hazard.
1) Due consideration needs to be given, to the reality that reports and recommendations originating with vested interests groups (e.g. the British Stainless Steel Association), need to be accompanied by very large doses of both salt and skepticism.

2) Qualities of stainless steel (and there are very many substandard qualities of stainless steel on the market today, along with even deliberate mislabeling e.g. with rigging wire, and this for uses that can very much get people killed, if inadequate products are supplied) in different environments at different temperatures, can potentially affect performance.

3) Uniform Attack is a far more serious issue, than crevice corrosion (though it can kick that off or contribute to it too), and it might be considered rather disingenuous, and motives questioned, for pretending that 'all is ok' as regards Uniform Attack, when things 'might' (or might not - and 'suggestions' and 'not normally' are not guarantees to customers) be ok with certain concentrations with regards to 'crevice corrosion'.

The 'crevice corrosion' Apples are bad enough, but we are talking the big stinky rotten Watermelon (not Oranges), with Uniform Attack.

Make sense?
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Old 17-02-2016, 08:11   #34
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Re: Cleaning S/S water tanks

So, what is one of use to clean/sanitize stainless steel water tanks?

See more @ redemptiverepair.com
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