Originally Posted by Cheechako
another option on the electrical is to use a buss bar mounted just below the cabin sole
as high as possible (this assumes the wires on your new pump will reach there and you have a reasonably deep bilge) You can spray the terminals with various products or use Dielectric grease (radio shack) Makes for easy change out, diagnosis etc. You can run nice big #10 wire to the buss bar and not have to figure out how to connect that to the wimpy wires on the pump. and when your new defective pump fails immediately it's easy to change out!!
Yep.. Thats what we use on our boat- boats.. Frequently (2-3) years... The "RULES" will go out.. Especially the float switches.. So having the Buss bar just below the cabin
sole works great..
Don't get some wimpy pump either.. When you start taking on water
from a broken thru hull
, bad sea cock, ANYTHING to do with the raw water cooling
on your engine
.. Your going to be glad you have something that can keep up until you find the hole etc. and stop/fix it..
I have heard many stories of sailors under way going down into the cabin
of the boat and finding a foot of water over the cabin sole from something going amiss while sailing or motoring.. (Many years with TowBoat US on rescue
The loop above the the thru hull is very necessary, especially if you have a "low" one or a sailboat..
You don't want to be healed over and your thru hull going below the heeling angle and sucking water in!!
And for motorboats.. when underway, the waves you push or other waves/ boaters wakes may cover your discharge opening and allow water back into the boat..
Float switches are notoriously failing due to gunk trash, connections etc. I always carry a spare..
You could get a "computer controlled" one that tests for water every 3 minutes or so and will pump down till any water is gone.. They will go bad too..
There is another type of bilge pump switch.. That has no moving parts
.. but 2 electrodes that protrude from a hockey puck
looking device.. You mount it sideways in the bilge with one electrode higher than the other.. When seawater rises up to cover both connections.. it will turn the pump on.. No moving parts
There are also more industrial bilge pumps like "Loveitt" and others that will last longer and are commercial
than the "Rules"..
Don't get me wrong.. I have Rules in all my stuff.. Just keep a good eye on them..
I test them with the automatic to manual switch and visually inspect the bilge every time I step back onto the boat..
Last thing.. Procure and carry on-board.. Wooden tapered plugs of various sizes, (preferably ones that fit your thru hulls) so just in case there's an accident
, you have something to shove into the hole that was made to plug
Sorry so long winded but more boats sink at the dock
from failed bilge pumps than anything else..