Originally Posted by rlmmail
Thanks, Cheechako. I wasn't expecting to hear this kind of example, but it does make sense, and I'm glad to know it! Did your boat have the usual other precautions (vented loop, enough distance between bilge and outlet, etc.)? Have you noticed any serious reduced pump capacity problems since installing a check valve? Thanks again.
Having nearly had my boat sink. reasons below.
INCORRECTLY FITTED vOLVO
STERN GLAND. FITTED BY A COMPANY IN LEKAS LEFKADA Greece
The company shall remain nameless for legal
reasons. all I will say is the company carries out yacht services is run by an English
man and is very close to the public berths and the floating restaurant.
NRV can stick open or closed in either situation it not a good idea to have them.
As you see in this thread there are several major manufacturers who though they manufacture then do not recommend NRV I am adding to the list Rule/Jabsco. see my post #21
Bilge Pump Non-Return Valve
I have a Wind
Gen a Solar
Panel and excellent batteries and my boat was supposedly being monitored while I was away. On arriving at the port by ferry
at 4am and checking on the boat I found myself knee deep in water because of floating rubbish on top of one pumps float switch. Rubbish left in the bilge by the afore mentioned company. A second pump had a failed float switch a TMC TMC-08121 Automatic Float Switch
and a third pump had a blocked Jabsco/Rule/ITT NRV.
So I bailed out with a bucket until I could see the pumps. Wife holding a torch and standing in the cockpit
at the companion entrance the water being thrown out into the cockpit
to drain away through the cockpit drains.
Welcome to JabscoShop - Jabsco & Rule Pumps and more - from the experts
I would advocate scrupulously clean bilges (as far as you can go). If you want to be serious put a pump over the side and fill the bilges with water and see what is floating about, Gel coat chips separated from the hull, paper, matchsticks, all sorts of plastic, including electrical
tape, washers, wire strippings, labels, cable ties toothpicks you name it and if you have kids
well there is a lot more can be down there. Scrape as much as you can up by hand then pump the water out using all the pumps at the same time, the loose crap will congregate around the pump strainers, so keep them clear.
It would not hurt to carry out the operation twice. ( I thought my bilges were clean!!!!! UNTIL IT HAPPENED)
When you are carrying out work internally in the boat make sure all rubbish goes straight into a rubbish bag as you make it, DON'T clean up later. Keep the under side of the floor pan opening edges clean. When you sweep up the rubbish goes between the GRP and the wood.
secure the float switch to the bilge bottom then raise the pump above the water level returned to the bilge when the pump stops.
If the pump is an all in one pump and float switch fit it on a raised block or bracket above the feedback water level if you want it dry fit a sump strainer and pump also/ Or use a sponge and bucket once it is all out it should remain dry.
Many pumps have a fitting where the float switch is fitted on a level with or slightly lower than the pump.
Most pump manufacturers can supply a side mount bracket for the smaller pumps Rule
66. Up to Rule
Vertical Mounting Bracket
Fits all 'Round' Rule pumps from size 360 up to size 1100
Actual Weight: 0.04 Kg (Approx. 0.24 Kg packed)
Universal Pump Adapter
Allows all Rule 360 (1360), 500 (1893), 800 (3028) Round and 1100 GPH (4164 LPH) pumps to be mounted to competitive bases: AttwoodŽ V-500, Mayfair Proline 500 (1893), 750 (2839), 1000 (3785) and West Marine
500 (1893), 750 (2839) and 1000 GPH (3785 LPH) models. Price
Rule Submersable Pumps
AND ALL THE FITTINGS PIPES VENTED LOOPS THAT YOU COULD NEED.
JOHNSON PUMP 10605 CARTRIDGE SIDE BRACKET
PLEASE NOTE THE PICTURE FOR THE JOHNSON IS UPSIDE DOWN THE PUMP REALLY FITS ONTO THE LARGER SECTION AND HAS 5 PUMP FIXING HOLES. 4 ALREADY PREDRILLED.
Usually available world wide
You will have to find the rest yourselves.
I like the Johnson because you can use other pumps fitted to the base.
If you are talking about vented loops then don't forget the sink wastes, the toilet, shower
tray, water tank breathers central heating
and air con vents and any other ingress or exit but usually these are for a heeling vessel. If your siphoning back in from your bilge pumps then sort the bilge pumps float switches etc.
You can join to Bilge pump pipe outlets but only at the through hull connection and the through hull should be twice the diameter of the bilge pump tubes. If your worried then raise the pipes above the level of the through hull fitting. (Note you can use any brass that has been de-zincified.
Please note all you Volvo
Stern Gland users (Volvo call it a Rubber Packing box) who complain that there stern gland leaks
rest assured its not fitted, greased, burped or maintained correctly. After refitting a new one myself I can safely say that THERE SHOULD BE NO LEAK OR DRIP AT ALL.
P.S. Don't forget if you have a pump on your shower
tray a manual override switch gives you another pump in an emergency
Every reduction in pipe internal diameter restricts the flow keep the runs as short as possible and the the pipe section to the through hull as vertical as possible.
Every little helps
THE HULL IS THERE TO KEEP THE WATER OUT IF ITS COMING IN THE BILGES AND ITS NOT RAIN WATER YOU HAVE A PROBLEM. I hope this helps took me a long time to type with one finger.