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Old 23-12-2014, 09:00   #1
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Bench testing watermaker

I recently purchased a Spectra Newport 1000 220/24v watermaker. I want to bench test it in my garage to see if there are any issues before I decide to install it.
The manual online isn't clear enough for me so my questions are;
should I just take a big bucket of tap water, submerge a hose in it and hook it into the charcoal filter side and go through the "purge" procedure stated in the manual in order to purge all the pickled chemicals?
Where should the yellow switch on the boost pump be pointing to; "service", "off", or "run" when I'm doing this?
Why is there a garden hose connection on the boost pump? Can I run garden hose water through this connection and will it run through the charcoal filter?
If the charcoal filter was replaced before it sat for a year, should I replace it now before I do this procedure even if it hasn't been used?
Thanks for any help!
And why can't I load any photos!
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Old 23-12-2014, 21:57   #2
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Re: Bench testing watermaker

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alls Well View Post
I recently purchased a Spectra Newport 1000 220/24v watermaker. I want to bench test it in my garage to see if there are any issues before I decide to install it.
The manual online isn't clear enough for me so my questions are;
should I just take a big bucket of tap water, submerge a hose in it and hook it into the charcoal filter side and go through the "purge" procedure stated in the manual in order to purge all the pickled chemicals?
Where should the yellow switch on the boost pump be pointing to; "service", "off", or "run" when I'm doing this?
Why is there a garden hose connection on the boost pump? Can I run garden hose water through this connection and will it run through the charcoal filter?
If the charcoal filter was replaced before it sat for a year, should I replace it now before I do this procedure even if it hasn't been used?
Thanks for any help!
And why can't I load any photos!
Bench testing a NP1000 can get a bit complicated. A bit too lengthy to post the whole procedure here. But feel free to call me and I can better explain how to do it and what to look for through the process to determine what is or is not working. Though you would be interested I'd probably bore everyone else reading this to tears. But here are the quick answers to your questions above.

1) "should I just take a big bucket of tap water, submerge a hose in it and hook it into the charcoal filter side and go through the "purge" procedure"

No. First it would take a very large bucket as the purging procedure takes about 30 minutes and at about 4gpm you'd need at the least a 120gallon bucket. Plus you wouldn't hook it up to the charcoal side of the system.

2) "Where should the yellow switch on the boost pump be pointing to; "service", "off", or "run" when I'm doing this?"

The yellow handle will be in the "SERVICE" position

3) "Why is there a garden hose connection on the boost pump? Can I run garden hose water through this connection and will it run through the charcoal filter?"

The hose bib connection on the boost pump module is for your pickling intake hose. Attaching a garden hose here to feed the system residential water will bypass the charcoal filter and introduce residual chlorine to your membranes, and at that flow will damage them.

4) "If the charcoal filter was replaced before it sat for a year, should I replace it now before I do this procedure even if it hasn't been used?"

Once a charcoal filter has been wetted it needs to be changed out in six months regardless of whether this system has been operated or not. The filters are the consumable part of any watermaker. This is no place to cheap out, start with a new one.

I really think you need to call me direct for help.

J.T. Halden (aka Tellie)
(954) 515-7077
HaldenMarineService.com
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