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Old 22-06-2013, 09:10   #16
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

update - after an hour or so at low, the compressor is low to mid 140s, pressure line 110 and return at compressor ~ 85.

Too soon to see about box temps change; they don't seem to have, but we were in the frig for brekkers...
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Old 23-06-2013, 08:34   #17
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

After overnight on SSC setting 2, with ambient temps 86, output/pressure fitting 130, compressor 155, intake fitting at compressor 86 (just under ambient). Output tube from bulkhead still cool, sweating. No basic change in box temps overnight, but between some openings and small warm-item insertion, freezer notched up to 30-31 and no change overnight.

I'll let it run at "3" for a while to see if anything moves notably.

This is all pretty weird when we used to have to worry slightly about freezing stuff in the reefer...
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Old 23-06-2013, 10:43   #18
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

These temperatures are irrelevent at this point, Skip. What is the result of the compressor test I asked you to do?
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Old 23-06-2013, 13:38   #19
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frigoboat Info View Post
These temperatures are irrelevent at this point, Skip. What is the result of the compressor test I asked you to do?
My apologies. I missed the answer to whether I risked taking in air with the suction line disconnected...
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Old 23-06-2013, 15:44   #20
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

This is Frigoboat Info. This is the official word from Frigoboat. I am trying to help, but it wil be a slow process is every one of my instructions are questioned. Please just do the test. This is a standard test for this compressor, and I would have mentioned the fact if there were any danger of air being drawn in.
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Old 24-06-2013, 10:30   #21
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

static pressure about +20 on connection. Low pressure O Ring oily but not flat. If I'm going to vacuum the system (or in any case) should I replace it while it's open, or wait until before vacuuming?

5 minute reading -23 (gauge only goes to -30)

10 minute reading -25

Ambient air 80ish. Compressor at 10 minutes 98.

Maybe pix later, from start...

What next?
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Old 24-06-2013, 12:05   #22
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

Great! You've just confirmed that your compressor is OK and now we can move on and look elsewhere. (For future reference, as long as the suction goes down to 20 in Hg that's enough to prove the compressor valves or head gasket are not faulty.)

So how are you judging the refrigerant charge level? You have guages so you can tell us what pressures you are seeing. How is the frost covering on the evaporator? Why do you want to evacuate the system?
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Old 24-06-2013, 12:21   #23
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frigoboat Info View Post
Great! You've just confirmed that your compressor is OK and now we can move on and look elsewhere. (For future reference, as long as the suction goes down to 20 in Hg that's enough to prove the compressor valves or head gasket are not faulty.)

So how are you judging the refrigerant charge level? You have guages so you can tell us what pressures you are seeing. How is the frost covering on the evaporator? Why do you want to evacuate the system?
I replaced the O ring when I restored the system...

As it had been oil-wet, I presumed it to be faulty. Hmmm. If it's faulty, it leaks. I bet I've not had all these horror stories, but merely an undercharge which I exacerbated by presuming that cold-wet insulation down 18" from the bulkhead meant overcharge, and bled it, a little at a time.

So, when I started it back up, I gave it a shot, making sure there was no spillover fan confusing the issue by pulling heat from the reefer.

Temps plummeted. After a half hour, it slowed down. No frost, and not even very cold at the bulhead. Another shot started things up again, but now we're up against all the now-barely-frozen stuff in the freezer.

I'm not able to give a good estimate on the actual charge, as I don't have two schafer ends on my hoses (long story). I'm going to have to back into it.

As to purging and starting over, I'll see how it does from here for a bit. Given the leak in the suction line, I'm not convinced I have an immaculate system. The last time I did it with a borrowed, husker, sucker than I have, and let it run a day before recharging (and forgetting that we had to chill all the insulation, it having taken over 3 days for the open freezer to defrost when we decommissioned before regasketing, mistaking slow pull for some system problem), I got immediate satisfaction and as well was confident of my system's integrity.

So, perhaps I won't, if this solves the problem...
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Old 24-06-2013, 14:46   #24
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

Approximately 3.5-4 hours into charge-and-run, with start temps 44.7/34+, having disabled the frig fan so as to not have any more heat than necessary, and including going into the reefer once, we are now at 46.6/21.7. The reefer is creeping up as expected.

Rate of drop has diminished, probably from having to cool those no-longer-frozen 2.5G water, two loaves of bread, a bag of ice cubes and some burgers. There is now about 7" of frost on the exit line at the bulkhead; an inch was added over the course of an hour or so, and over another hour, nothing, so I think it might be stabilized at the moment.

I'm monitoring it every half hour. Anything I should be looking for, or problems seen at this time?

L8R

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Old 24-06-2013, 15:25   #25
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

OK Skip. Understood (I think .....)

See here for Refrigerant R134a Charge Guidelines: Coastal Cool-Aids
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Old 24-06-2013, 16:09   #26
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

decrease in freezer temps have slowed to a crawl at 0.2 degrees in 2 hours.

No change in frost levels on exit area. Return tube cool to touch at the compressor and sweating a few inches back.

Pressure fitting ~135, compressor ~165.

Any ideas from the conditions seen? Can ice behave like this (evacuate question)?
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Old 24-06-2013, 16:37   #27
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

We're not interested in compressor or fitting temps at this point, Skip, so please concentrate on box temperatures and frost-line only.

You have approx. 20 lbs of water to freeze, and that will take 20 x 144 = 2,880 Btu's just to turn the water into ice at 32F without any change in temperature. With the compressor at say 500 Btu's per hour, that feat alone will take about 6 hours.
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Old 24-06-2013, 17:28   #28
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

Thanks.

The temp is crawling to 20; the reefer is crawling past 51 (several dinner openings).

Frost line hasn't moved in hours; inference is that it's very minimally overcharged, but since the frost line hasn't moved, I'm not doing anything else yet.

By inference, this behavior is to be expected, due to the load in the box?

Thanks again.

L8R

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Old 26-06-2013, 09:06   #29
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

Skip: I have two questions for you;
1) How did you do the compressor suction test and see the results you posted when you say you cannot attach your guage set?
2) What are the contents of the can you have hooked up in some of your photo's? I presume it contains R134a, but what additives are included? Can you send a picture of the label, please?
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Old 26-06-2013, 09:46   #30
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Re: Another Frigoboat cooling problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frigoboat Info View Post
Skip: I have two questions for you;
1) How did you do the compressor suction test and see the results you posted when you say you cannot attach your guage set?
2) What are the contents of the can you have hooked up in some of your photo's? I presume it contains R134a, but what additives are included? Can you send a picture of the label, please?
Hi, and thanks for the response.

I bought a gauge set for 134A; those didn't have Schrader outputs, which I needed for doing my first evacuation. I bought the proper (wrong color) hose and the adapter to attach to my can from a Snap-On guy. I used that hose, after purging it, for my suction test.

I was very careful when I bought my 134A to have no additives of any sort.

The gas I've been using is Advance Auto Parts A1300, Buy Advance Auto Parts 12 oz. Can R-134a Refrigerant A1300/012R134AA at Advance Auto Parts

My next can (I think I'll need it if I go to evacuation is a Wal-Mart PN NR-134A by interdynamics, NR-134a R-134a 12 oz - IDQ USA

I've been monitoring temps, and at 9:45AM two days ago, when I went into the reefer, temps were 16.8/52.1.

At that point, I reinstated the reefer (removed the blockage from the top and energized the fan in the spillover. 1.5 hours later, freezer is up to 23.0 and reefer is down to 39.2, a raise/drop of 3.2/12.9. Aside from it being not nearly cold enough, this is as Id expect.


Since then, reefer temps have stabilized (well, reach 32 and creep back up to 34 where the spillover fan engages), and freezer temps have crept down. At 8:00AM, the reefer was 33.5 (on the way back to 34) and freezer was at 19.6. The reefer door had been opened once. There are an equal number of readings where the reefer was drawing and not (fan on or off).

In the last 4 hours, measured every 30 minutes, freezer temps have a high of 20.0 and a low of 19.2. Curiously, the high and low are the last two readings.

Reefer temps have slid up and down between 32/34. The ice dimension hasn't changed but it's now very hard and thick. That there is no further ice suggests that's how far out it will come, 36 hours into watching it.

Compressor temps are high (170) and output tube is 155, but at the connection, it drops to 135-140. Evac tube is cool 4 inches from cold (sweating vs cool) and the joint is cool to the touch (ambient air 88, joint ~84)

So, what I infer from all this, as a layman (despite your kind assumption I was a licensed refrigeration), is that I have a very slight overcharge condition as witnessed by the frost line. Whether or not that would prevent the freezer from getting to cycle temp (8F) I don't know.

My thought is to VERY slowly bleed, with the compressor off, a tiny amount from the charging line I still have attached to the low pressure line, until the frost reaches an inch from the bulkhead, and monitor what happens from that point.

Is that appropriate given the circumstances?

Thanks so much

L8R

Skip
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