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Old 24-08-2014, 12:22   #1
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Alder Barbour: Does this Look Bad

That is, bad enough that we can rip this old system out ourselves? I know it isn't a very good picture, but I am looking at the corrosion around the fittings and thinking this (likely 25yo) system might be shot enough that we don't have to worry about the refrigerant escaping, because it probably already has.

Uncharacteristically, I called a specialist, but he hasn't even given me a time when he can take a look at it to decide if it can be repaired or must be replaced. We are leaning towards replacing it ourselves, possibly even buying the water cooled version, albeit without the conversion kit at this time.

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Old 24-08-2014, 16:40   #2
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Re: Alder Barbour: does this look bad

[QUOTE=Greenhand;1612892]That is, bad enough that we can rip this old system out ourselves? I know it isn't a very good picture, but I am looking at the corrosion around the fittings and thinking this (likely 25yo) system might be shot enough that we don't have to worry about the refrigerant escaping, because it probably already has.

Uncharacteristically, I called a specialist, but he hasn't even given me a time when he can take a look at it to decide if it can be repaired or must be replaced. We are leaning towards replacing it ourselves, possibly even buying the water cooled version, albeit without the conversion kit at this time.

Attachment 87012

Your unit was manufactured after 1995 and before 2000 it should last another 15 years if you take care of the evaporator plate inside box. If these normal copper oxidations concerns you clean them off.

You will be wasting your time and money if you call a technical person. The question is, will compressor run, IF NOT you can find out why and correct trouble yourself with these simple instructions. If you confirm compressor is running because after 20 minutes it does get warm then and only then you may need help.

Troubleshooting 4 pin modules consists of the following:

1. Place jumper wire across thermostat terminals, Compressor still does not run.

2. Disconnect black fan wire from electronic module, Compressor runs replace fan. Compressor still does not run after fan ground wire is disconnected. If one of the 10 transistors in this fan fail it can cause module to prevent compressor from running.

3. Run correct size and correct polarity fused jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery to module in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value, Compressor still does not run electronic module needs to be tested on another unit.

I closed my shop but after seeing what is being charged by boat refrigeration companies who will test modules charging $50 and charging as high as $385 for new 4 pin modules, I decided to test and sell modules for a fraction of what is currently being charged.

If your shipping address is in the US I will test your module on my Danfoss compressor refrigeration test stand. This test stand will run at max compressor load for a one hour. I will then return your module to you for a shipping and handling charge of $20. Ship module with return address and a personal check for $20 to:
Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL 33312

New replacement Module

If you wish to purchase a new or serviceable unit from me later I currently have the following four pin modules:

Four pin modules for BD2, BD2.5 and BD3 twelve volt compressors only:

No used modules available at this time.

New module non Danfoss With improved cooling. $150 plus $15 shipping.

Modules will only be shipped to addresses in the US. If you want to purchase a new replacement module send personal check for $165 and return address to:

Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL 33312


Because your unit is old and if it needs a new electronic module there is a risk that something is wrong that caused module to fail so most companies will refuse warranty of these modules. This is my electronic module warranty:
Any new module I sell can be returned for full credit without question within 30 days . Because of my own risk involved for the next 11 months I will return only 50% of the new units purchase price if module is returned within the first year.

Richard Kollmann
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Old 24-08-2014, 22:05   #3
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Re: Alder Barbour: does this look bad

Thanks! I had this on our priority list for today, but it didn't happen. I don't think my husband, who loves milk and cereal, realizes how difficult it is going to be to live without any refrigeration until this is taken care of. Heck, since I generally cook, he might never realize how challenging it is, until I start making him take me out for dinner every night.
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Old 31-08-2014, 08:27   #4
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Re: Alder Barbour: does this look bad

Is there a reason that the temperature controls phone style plug in is covered in a sticky goo?

The fuses were also sticky, but not nearly as gooey.
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Old 31-08-2014, 08:54   #5
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Re: Alder Barbour: does this look bad

It's dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
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Old 31-08-2014, 10:10   #6
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Re: Alder Barbour: does this look bad

Listen to richard kollmann. You will not be sorry.

If you decide to get a new adler barbour, dont spend the extra bucks on the air/water version. I did and ten years later I have not installed the water part. This in florida/bahamas. Instead use the savings to buy the larger of the two freezer box evaporators, I bought the smaller and regret it.
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Old 31-08-2014, 12:50   #7
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Re: Alder Barbour: does this look bad

Last night the compressor seemed to be running, but the fan was not.

A few cleaned and reconnected wires later and now the fan runs (at least when we bypass the thermostat), but not the compressor...
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Old 31-08-2014, 13:40   #8
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Re: Alder Barbour: does this look bad

If the fan is drawing more than 0.5A or so, the control module will not let the compressor start. If you can reliably get the compressor to run without the fan, but not with the fan, then I think you need a new fan. These are cheaply obtained from Amazon/Newegg/Fry's/etc without paying AB's high price - just look at the specs and make sure you get one that has >65cf/min flow and <0.5A draw.

These are good: SilenX EFX-12-15 Case Fan - Newegg.com

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Old 31-08-2014, 16:27   #9
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Re: Alder Barbour: Does this Look Bad

We are (finally) back to where we started a month ago: both the fan and the compressor seem to be running, but the box is not cooling. I am afraid we have a bad evaporator plate. And from what I have read, replacing that will likely require that we replace the compressor unit, as well because NEW AND IMPROVED!

Sure wish I knew why the fan had stopped running, in the first place. We probably could have come to this conclusion much faster without that wonkiness.
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Old 31-08-2014, 16:51   #10
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Re: Alder Barbour: Does this Look Bad

Spoke too soon: after much use of his multi meter, we are going to start by replacing the thermostat.
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Old 08-09-2014, 09:21   #11
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Re: Alder Barbour: Does this Look Bad

With a new thermostat and added refrigerant, we saw the entire plate frost over (but not the return tube). We left the unit running, with the thermostat set to warmest until it shut off, but never saw temps below 50 at the far side of the refrigerator. So we changed the thermostat setting.

The next morning, it started cycling and giving us three flashes. We shut it off and let it rest, then turned it back on. It started fine, then shut off when we ran the water pump. We shut off the water pump at the breaker, turned on the battery charger, and let it run overnight. We have groceries now, after all.

This morning, Mr. Greenhand found it running and shut it off at the breaker to give it a rest. Now it won't start and is giving us one flash, again. We have removed the resistor and are waiting to finish doing dishes to try again.

We are calculating what size wiring we need to replace the current wires, and the straight run to the battery cable will be shorter than the run to the breaker panel, so we can use them as jumper cables to test the unit.

We are just wondering if there is anything else we could be missing.
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:38   #12
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Re: Alder Barbour: Does this Look Bad

Flashing code 1 means insufficient voltage. The recommended wire size is #12 for runs up to 10 feet, #10 for runs up to 17 feet, #8 for runs up to 27 feet. THEY ALSO RECOMMEND GOING DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY, NOT THROUGH THE BREAKER PANEL. Use a separate breaker or fuse in the line, 15 amp I think.

Flashing code 3 means 'compressor motor starting problem'. Whatever that means. I guess that just letting it cool down is the proper procedure.
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Old 09-09-2014, 18:42   #13
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Re: Alder Barbour: Does this Look Bad

OK, we have gone a day with no flashing codes. The addition of a fan has created safe refrigeration temps throughout the box.

Now, the issue is that we seem to have a cycle of about 15 minutes off, 75 minutes on. We will be addressing the seal on the door, but as always, we are open to suggestions.
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Old 09-09-2014, 19:02   #14
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Re: Alder Barbour: Does this Look Bad

An IR thermometer might show you precisely where the problems lie.
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:31   #15
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Re: Alder Barbour: Does this Look Bad

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenhand View Post
Now, the issue is that we seem to have a cycle of about 15 minutes off, 75 minutes on. We will be addressing the seal on the door, but as always, we are open to suggestions.
Insulation, of course, is always part of the problem. The IR thermometer suggestion is good and I once found a use for it elsewhere that was worth ten times what it cost me.

I have noticed, at least in my experience, that the run times eventually balance out with time. When we first start our adler barbour after a long shutdown, it spends the first few days being on more than being off. Eventually it gets to about equal periods and that's where it stays - 20 on and 20 off.
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