This reply to your thread is too late I'm sure, but I want to contribute my experience with bleeding the air out of my W-H pilot. In my case the biggest advance came by compartmentalizing the sump bucket for the two clear bleed hoses. This was done by using a beer
can modified with a pair of scissors. The can is submerged in fluid in the bucket. One hose is in the can, the other hose is in just the bucket. Both hoses submerged in fluid. The beer
can acts to force the air bubbles up before being re-taken upwards by which ever hose is in suction mode. Observation reveals the original positioning of the hoses being too close to each other and the suction hose retaking some of the very small bubbles.
A second thing I've learned is that the pressurizing of the Reservalve can quickly result in the intake inside the Reservalve sucking air. During the inital opening of the bleed valves the pressure drives the fluid out of the Reservalve and if the fluid level is not closely watched, air suction will result. My solution is to use the Reservalve pressure to get the fluid up to the cylinder, then open the Reservalve fill plug
, refill and reseal, but not repressureize. For the rest of the bleeding cycle the movement of the piston in the cylinder or the pump will move the fluid. It is this remainder of the bleeding cycle that takes place with the compartmentalized bleed bucket/beer can.
The last thing: I'd made my 3/8" copper tubing flares with an inexpensive flare tool from a big box plumbing
section. After fussing over leaking flare fittings I noticed that the flares made with this tool were lopsided. I checked the holes of the flare tool with a small square and piece of copper pipe and found them to be off axis. I went to the expense of buying
a "Professional Eastman Brake Flaring Tool" which gave me great flares and ended the leaking. I made single
flares. I'd also ordered a product called "Flaretite". A card of maybe 10 little cone shaped pieces of metal with some kind of Loctite compound on both sides. The idea is to place a Flaretite between the mating surfaces, then the cone will deform and the loctite will fill any spaces. Reportedly able to be reused. I did not need them after the Eastman tool; they are now part of my spares.
Doug on SV Drakus