Adler-Barbour Cold Machine Stopped Working

[dlauginiger]

I am in need of some feedback concerning my Adler-Barbour Cold Machine (air-cooled), it has stopped working altogether.

In December 2015, I moved from Texas to Florida. I had to leave my boat (Watkins 32) in Texas until March 2016. The Cold Machine was powered down and the reefer lid was left open. After moving the boat to FLA the cold machine would not work. The symptoms are:

1. No cooling, no running fan, no running compressor, no LED.

2. Voltage readings at the Junction Box are 1.3 volts indicating a possible loading problem.

Trying to isolate whether the problem is the load or the line:

3. I pulled the 15A fuse and the voltage returned to normal, 13.5 volts.

4. I reinstalled the fuse and disconnected the power leads that go from the Junction Box to the the Compressor Control box. The problem returned, 1.3 volts.

I am trying to avoid spending $800 to buy an entire Condensing Unit (Compressor, cooling fan, junction box, control box). My question is:

Is there another isolation point, electrically closer to the compressor, where I can, break the electrical line, and take a voltage reading to isolate the Compressor Control box from the Compressor itself?

Any help would be appreciated.

David
Southern Cross

[newhaul]

First thing to do IMO would be to run temporary power straight to the unit from the house bank . If all. Works corect. The next thing is to clean and reconnect all original power leads both pos and neg.
Other than that give JD a call ( aka tellie on here)
http://haldenmarineservice.com/

[Stu Jackson]

^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yes. 99% are electrical problems.

TECH TIP #1

[Cheechako]

I'm confused where you are checking the voltage. But be sure to check right where the wires enter the unit. If you are good there, it's possible there's a problem in the "black box".

[Richard Kollmann]

David, I had a Watkins 32 for 30 years great strong rough water boat.

Sounds like you have an Adler Barbour CU00 or CU200 model with a faulty Add on stainless steel box and a circuit board failure. If LED sends a 3,4,5, or 6 trouble code problem is a burnt printed circuit on board behind 15 amp fuse. If printed circuit fails at ground area of board LED will not flash at all. Both of these conditions are easily bypassed. SEE TECH TIP #1 on my web site for picture and methods to correct problem. Kollmann Marine.

[dlauginiger]

Richard,

Small world, yes the Watkins is a sturdy boat, lots of headroom too (I'm 6'5" and I can stand up straight down below).

As for the CU100 the LED is not lit at all. Your Tech Tip looks like the way to go, I will do as much as I can tomorrow. I will look at the board for charring and if necessary, run steps 1, 2, & 4. I don't have a spare Danfoss Control Module so I cannot run 3 and hopefully the compressor control module is fine.

Thanks!

[hmayo]

Remove connects from compress and check windings that are not shorted to cabinet internally.Dropping voltage that much something maybe shorted

[Richard Kollmann]

Fan not running on A three phase Danfoss BD 12 volt compressor, no troubleshooting LED codes and good 15 amp fuse could indicate a thermostat problem but not a compressor problem.
Smart Troubleshooting is always methods that are non destructive. Add on gadgets to a reliable proven design is where trouble generally happens first.

[dlauginiger]

Richard,

What about the loading on the voltage? From my technician days that usually indicated insufficient source (already replaced house batteries) or an excessive load. I will try the thermostat jumper but am not hopeful.

David

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by dlauginiger

Richard,

What about the loading on the voltage? From my technician days that usually indicated insufficient source (already replaced house batteries) or an excessive load. I will try the thermostat jumper but am not hopeful.

David

Insufficient voltage will produce a single flash LED trouble code every 4 seconds. Alternating 3 phase low voltage current to compressor can not be determined with a standard voltmeter. After 20 minutes with refrigerator power turned on Does Compressor get warmer? If so run a new ground temporary jumper wire from negative post on battery to large negative terminal on Danfoss Module bypassing stainless box and all other boat ground wiring.

Did you remove 15 amp fuse and visually look for heat damage at fuse holder?
Did you look at back side of circuit board ground printed circuit strip for heat damage as seen in Tech Tip picture?

[dlauginiger]

Richard,

I did look at the fuse holder but not the circuit board. I will break out my inspection mirror (circuit board on other side of stainless steel box).

The measurements I was taking was for 12vdc so this piques my curiosity, where is the 12vdc converted to 3-phase AC? Is it inside the compressor housing? The schematic I have shows no components capable of doing that but it does not show the actual compressor.

David

[Richard Kollmann]

On these variable speed BD compressors there is only three field coils surrounding the armature there are no brushes or electronic inside this canister. Rotation and speed of pump is produced by impulses from microprocessors inside Danfoss electronic module. The only way to damage compressor is by connecting DC current direct to compressor. Interrupting phasing of coils has been proven to be caused by a poor ground on circuit board or in boats wiring.

You should be looking for an electrical problem not a compressor problem. Next will be someone suggesting you tamper with refrigerant.

[dlauginiger]

Richard,

I was just curious about the 3-phase AC. Thanks for the help.

David