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Old 02-08-2008, 08:54   #16
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12volt refrigeration

Richard, I have an adler barbour 12 vlt refrigeration with a mecanical thermostat that was outside the fridge box with the temp sensor/capilllary wire running/attached to the evaporator. My system works great just does not cycle off...we usually switch it off at night so it doesn't turn into a freezer. Is this beacuse the thermostat is outside the fridge and never senses the colder temp and should be repositioned inside the fridge? Or is the thermostat just shot?
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:28   #17
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George, The entire length of the thermostat’s capillary tube is averaging the temperature and therefore is influencing pressure inside it needed to operate the snap action thermostat. When the thermostat and all of its cap tube are inside the refrigerated box area and the end five inches of cap tube clamped correctly to evaporator this will calibrate thermostat to mid range, say 3 to 4 on the dial. If you are saying with dial turned down to 1 and compressor does not cycle off when box reaches a desired temperature the cap tube contact under evaporator plate is not enough. If there is excess cap tube without moving thermostat try another 5 inch turn around hold down plate on evaporator.
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Old 02-08-2008, 15:04   #18
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Richard, thanks for the info, i'll try the extra 5" turn around the hold down plate. On another note...I have an 85watt solar panel with a sun saver controller and was wondering if there is a downside to having the panel allways on. It's wired to the house bank (two 4d lifeline AGM's). Is this OK for the batteries? Should I disconnect the panel when batteries are full and I'm away from the boat?
Thanks Again
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:30   #19
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George, I am not sure anyone other than original equipment manufacturers can give you a correct answer to your solar panel and regulator charging question, the reason for this is there are no two boat situations the same. Discharging and recharging protocols are the key to any batteries service life. The newer type Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries are reported to take more abuse. It is reported that most AGM batteries have no charge or discharge rate current limits, but I know of no information about overcharging from alternative energy power. If I were you I would ask your question to John at Hot Wire Marine and Email your question to tech@yandina.com both of these people are better qualified to answer it.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:33   #20
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For the moment, forget the Norcold 4447sqtc. It has worked nice but now, after 6 years has fallen to pieces. And regardless of all my Emails to Cindy Gohr( Customer service manager) and her promise to help me out, she has not done anything yet. Here in India so no cooling and that in 35 degrees celcius. I'd say, bad service is not selling fridges. Next.
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Old 04-08-2008, 14:47   #21
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Alondra, You have an impressive sailboat. Tell me, from your experience, is it as much maintenance keeping a teak hull as I have have been led to believe. There must be areas that are more prone to maintenance issues than others (mast step?) Also, does water seepage remain a constant/acceptable part of such a boat. She does look beautiful.
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Old 04-08-2008, 22:17   #22
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A very close friend of mine is one of the leading yachtdesigners in the world, he is the owner of the dutch designerburo Vripack. Asking him which material is the best he once told me that it is all the same and more likely to be a personal matter. Steel (rust), GRP (osmsosis), wood (rot) and Aluminum (Corrosion, rot).
Teak we have found is quite easy. Yes, it needs some painting and yes, we varnish. But it does not rot (birma teak) and generally we work about 2 straight weeks a year on the Alondra to keep her up. And leakage, we do have to cork the deck once a year but then she is pretty dry. Look, she is from 1965 and in a very good shape and still around doing her third circumnavigation. So what can I say?
Bying her at a price another (new )yacht of this size would cost 2 or 3 times what we bought her for she is all worth it. And yes, for that we bought, and everybody will keep on telling us that every harbour we pull in, the most beautiful yacht I could ever imagine. And we are still in love.
And now.... despite all that... she is for sale. After having her five years we just want another yacht one time, nothing better, nothing bigger, nothing more fancy, we will not get a nicer looking one, no. Just something different for a change.
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Old 14-08-2008, 13:04   #23
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I've used Seafrost on 2 boats, only 1 problem when the controller got soaked, otherwise, so far so good....
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Old 12-09-2008, 13:33   #24
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Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann View Post
A fan load of over ˝ amp will also signal module to stop compressor.
I am not sure why all the diagrams on danfoss models show fan power or water cooling pump power to be drawn from the same leads that feed the compressor power. That always caused voltage drop. I ended up just powering the solenoid off the compressor leads, and using separate leads to power the fan(s) or other cooling devices.
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Old 14-09-2008, 10:09   #25
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Gonesail,

Yes, someone makes this. Nova Kool makes a 110vac/12vdc switching box for their refrigeration systems. Very easy to install. The switching box gives priority to 110vac. If 110vac is present the box will convert it to 12vdc which is supplied to the refrigerator. If 110vac is not present (or the box is unplugged) then the box switches over to the 12vdc line and provides a straight pass thru of the dc volts. While it's made for Novakool's refrigerator systems using Danfoss compressors it works well with other manufacturers too. I've been using it for five years now and no problems.

Nova Kook can probably explain how it works better than I can, do a google search to find their web site, email address and/or phone number.
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