Volvo Penta Saildrive. Problems getting to seals.

[RJW]

I have twin Volvo Penta 130S saildrives.

One one I have been struggling to the remove the bolt holding the cone on. I've tried penetrating oil. I'm thinking to try an air wrench and possibly heat on the cone but I don't want to snap the bolt or round out the bolt head.

Any clues on how I can un-seize the thing?


On the second leg the bolt is out but the cone is resisting my efforts to undo it. The cone does turn anti clockwise about 3mm to 4mm in relation to the prop but when I release the pressure it springs back to the original position. The cone seems to be turning with what appears to be the visible part of the shaft between the prop and the bearing housing.

Just how much pressure should be required?

Roger

[Freerider]

I just removed a 110s saildrive from my boat, and the cone was a real bitch to remove. I ended up putting a loop around 1 of the prop blades and tied it off to the boats cradle. I then wound it a half turn until the line was tight, then put my largest screw driver through the cone hole with a 3ft pipe over the screwdriver handle.

Once i was able to secure the prop from turning i could get some leverage on the thing.

[Gordon]

Hi Roger,
Were you able to remove the prop, if not the advise below was passed on to me by 'Nod' of MHS in Mooloolaba.
Gordo.
I dont know if you want to copy and paste the following to Roger.


The bolt through the centre of the shaft is infact loctited in place. Applying heat to this is a good way to break the loctite seal. Otherwise you stand a very good chance of snapping the bolt and leaving a stud in the end of the shaft.


At the same time it is very common for the threaded end of the shaft to shear when the nut has seized to the shaft. I would try some light heat on the nut and proceed with caution.


Thanks
Nod

[RJW]

Thanks for the replies.

Freerider I used a portable bench jammed tight under the prop to stop it turning.

Gordo, Nod's set up might be different as the thread on the bolt is three inches from the head after passing through an aluminium cone on my sail drive. I'm not sure enough heat could get through if it had been red loctite which needs 500deg F to break down.

I eventually got the bolt out after buying a socket with a 6mm hex bit. Then using a sliding T bar to get even pressure on each side and a second pair of hands that used a hammer on the back of the socket with constant heavy tapping whilst I put more pressure on the nut it came undone.

The cone I could not get off eventually gave way after putting a pipe over a screwdriver to get more leverage. The movement I was getting was the give from the rubber hub in the prop I did not know was there.

The other cone was even tougher to get off! I snapped one screw driver twice, broke the largest allen key that would go through the cone, and bent other screwdrivers and a variety of bolts. I did try applying heat to the cone but that didn't help. I had tried penetrating oil poured inside the hole in the cone after sealing up the other holes before some of the above. Then elsewhere on the net saw another struggler had used a pipe wrench. After removing the paint and getting back to the aluminium so the wrench could grip, its a big wrench about 40cm long, and sliding a 60cm pipe over the handle with most of my 100kgs on the end the damn thing released.

The threads had a very hard light green material on them. Some kind of thread locking compound?

This thread is maybe why this was such hard work:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ive-77049.html

And this modification made interesting reading:
First Choice Marine Technical Group.

Roger

[Gordon]

Hi Roger, Green Locktite 290 was probably used, a pretty permanent locking agent.
Loctite Threadlocker Green 290 from Loctite Adhesives
maybe this is a better choice
Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 from Loctite Adhesives

[witzgall]

I always use a very light application of blue loctite on our Volvo 120 saildrive cone-bolt for this purpose. It takes a good bit of effort to get it off, but usually comes of in less than a minute of effort.

Chris

[Jeannius]

I lost several Volvo props before finding the solution. I use 3M 5200 to glue on my props cones and locking screws. Keeps them all together but is easy to remove when the time comes.