Volvo 120 Saildrive Drain Plug Stuck

[travellerw]

Originally Posted by ballvalve

the plug on the s130 looks the same and is definitely steel, i usually need an impact driver - but maybe the 120 is different

Yup.. I agree.. I have taken plugs out of numerous 120s and MS25S. They are absolutely steel. The official Volvo part number for that is 804262. Do a search on that part number and you will come up with numerous pictures of a metal (steel or stainless steel) drain plug.

However.. It might be correct that the gasket is not an o-ring. I think the MS25S has a buna-n o-ring, but the 120 might indeed have a flat washer.

As to the impact driver.. If you have the right bits, then absolutely its a good way to go. However, if you don't have the right bits, then you are most likely going to strip the slot head.

[Thumbs Up]

I have gotten them loose with vice grips. You have to clamp in just the right place so you have some clearance to turn the screw a little but it works if you have the right curved jaw vice grips and a strong grip.

[flyingfin]

If it is steel, you will need to heat with propane torch for 30 to 45 seconds, tap with ball peen hammer twenty times, then let cool. Repeat this process for at least 30 minutes, then attempt to turn to right, then turn to left and attempt to loosen. If it doesnt budge, start the heat cool process again. You can speed it up by spraying with cold water after tapping with ball peen hammer. I remember doing this for three hours to finally remove head bolts from a Cat bulldozer diesel engine.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by ballvalve

the plug on the s130 looks the same and is definitely steel, i usually need an impact driver - but maybe the 120 is different

My 120s have steel plugs w oring seals, yet to run across one with a derlin plug. Looks like exactly the same screw head to me.

OP: scrape a little of that blue paint off the screw head to confirm what youve got.

[Cloroxbottle]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

When I checked the oil originally and found it emulsified, I used the West Marine Vacuum Extractor to try and change the oil while the boat was in the water. I could not get the thinnest extraction tube to the bottom of the leg no matter what I tried. I did manage to take about 1.5 quarts of bad oil/water mix out of a drive that I understand to hold 2.6 quarts.

I've since been told that the 120 and 130 differ in this respect...that in the 130 drive you can get all the oil out from the top but in the 120 you cannot. True or false, I don't know...but in my drive, you can't access the very bottom from above.

The plug screw is metal.

DO NOT USE AN IMPACT DRIVER. Unless you have the correct large sized IMPACT bit

This is the biggest issue. All the bits I've seen for an impact driver are far too small to adequately turn that screw.

I'll take a square shank screwdriver, wrench, and hammer to the boat tomorrow and give that technique a try tomorrow.

Thanks again.

[a64pilot]

Even most cheap impacts come with a .5” flat tip bit.
The cheap ones that come in the metal box.

[Cloroxbottle]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Even most cheap impacts come with a .5” flat tip bit.
The cheap ones that come in the metal box.

I went to all three hardware stores in town yesterday and the largest flat tip impact bit I could find was 0.25. If I could find a .5 or 3/8ths, that would solve that problem...

[Cloroxbottle]

Well, despite my best effots the Drain Plug remains stuck.

So I removed the bearing housing and drained the oil that way.

With the bearing housing off, I decided to replace the seals.

Most of the instructions I've seen say to push the contents of the bearing housing forward to remove them.

The contents of my bearing housing don't want to move at all...forward or aft.

Cleaned it with some white vinegar but still nothing.

Pulled a bit on the forward seal and it's extremely brittle and started to disintegrate, but leaving the rubber ring attached to the metal.

Are these parts attached to the metal with some sort of adhesive or is there a trick to it that I'm unaware of?

[a64pilot]

Seals should be pressed in, they are pretty tight, there are several methods of removal, most destructive on the seal.
Be very careful to not damage the housing, don’t for example hammer a screwdriver between the seal and the housing.
There are tools made for extracting seats, slide hammers are good in my opinion.
Sometimes during manufacture I have seen yellow contact cement used on the seal metal housing where it’s pressed in.
I have never used it myself and don’t see the need.

Worst case have a local machinist / welder make you a big screwdriver bit by welding on a big screwdriver tip to an existing smaller bit.
It doesn’t have to be pretty.

[a64pilot]

If you can get to the inside to push the seal out, I have often used a socket that fits well and hit it with a hammer. The sockets needs to just barely fit inside if possible, and sometimes an extension is needed to extend out so you can hit it.
Sometimes putting in the socket upside down and using the extension works best
Socket is also used to press the seal in.
A machinist can make you a perfect fitting tool if necessary

[travellerw]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

If you can get to the inside to push the seal out, I have often used a socket that fits well and hit it with a hammer. The sockets needs to just barely fit inside if possible, and sometimes an extension is needed to extend out so you can hit it.
Sometimes putting in the socket upside down and using the extension works best
Socket is also used to press the seal in.
A machinist can make you a perfect fitting tool if necessary

This is the method I have used to replace my seals only I used a plastic thu-hull instead of a socket. I was able to find a thru-hull that was pretty much an exact fit for the hole.

Surprised the OP wasn't able to get the screw out with the square shank screw driver. That method has never failed me.

[belizesailor]

Had a badly stuck plug last year. Could not get it free. I was already pulling the drive, so finally got it free on the workbench. Usual methods: heat, impact, penetrating oil.

The seal holder has a lip on one side of the seals, be sure you are trying to press in the right direction.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by travellerw

Surprised the OP wasn't able to get the screw out with the square shank screw driver. That method has never failed me.

I have not had good luck with just a pair of vise grips on a screwdriver etc. Sometimes you can’t use an impact, sometimes like on aircraft panels you would wreck the sheet metal hammering on the screw.

However on something substantial, impact helps greatly. My belief is along with loosening the screw, the impact drives the screwdriver bit into the screw, right when maximum friction between the two is needed.

If the screw head stands proud, I have used vice grips to grip the outside of the screw, this helps sometimes, but I feel an impact driver will remove this screw, I’d bet lunch on it.

[travellerw]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I have not had good luck with just a pair of vise grips on a screwdriver etc. Sometimes you can’t use an impact, sometimes like on aircraft panels you would wreck the sheet metal hammering on the screw.

However on something substantial, impact helps greatly. My belief is along with loosening the screw, the impact drives the screwdriver bit into the screw, right when maximum friction between the two is needed.

If the screw head stands proud, I have used vice grips to grip the outside of the screw, this helps sometimes, but I feel an impact driver will remove this screw, I’d bet lunch on it.

Ya I wouldn't think a vice grip on a screw driver would work well.. But a wrench on a square shank driver can generate a lot of torque. So much that I have actually broken screw driver tips that way.

Impact is certainly the way to go if you have the right tips. Using a tip that is to small will just lead to a stripped screw. Plus I have had terrible luck with "off the shelf" tips lately. I keep breaking the tips with even my small battery operated impact driver.

[olaf hart]

If you can get to the plug thread from inside the housing, try repeatedly applying some PB Blaster to the thread.

If you can’t get PB, the secret sauce is half acetone and half atf.

I took my output shaft to the local Volvo guy, he used a hydraulic press to replace the seals.

Failing that, the old trick was to make up your own press using sockets, angle iron and a hydraulic jack, and freeze the shaft before putting the new seals on.

Be careful not to scratch the shaft..