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**sailorchic34** · 26-07-2012, 11:02

HA yes a glass salt shaker would work too (for the led light.... darn thread drift), but mine are plastic and smaller...

sailinman · 26-07-2012, 11:27

being handy and just making things is two different things...

your anchor light works, but is not legal... nor would it be considered safe.. does it function?? probably...

with the amount of exposed shaft, you have no choice but to go with what you got.... unless there is some other type of anode that can be placed on the shaft/propeller end (the threaded end)??? not sure if they make one or if that would fit with the small amount of threads left after the prop????

the wires to the shaft and then to the zinc will work also but the resistance in the wire needs to be counted for but that would be minimal...

the zinc in the strainer, not sure if that is fully submerged and or in contact with the water when the motor isnt running?

could the water syphon out of the sea strainer to the sea cock? is the strainer below water line?

is there any 'resistance' or other inhibiting factor thru the 'water column' in the hose to the sea strainer that would impede the anode from working fully? not sure....

but would love to see some numbers or some other 'success' stories...

but stories would be hard/diffiicult to extrapolate working models from as electrolysis is different from marina to marina, dock to dock... boat to boat....

last year, I used one zince for the entire year, and now at a different dock, I used one zinc in one month.... I didnt change anything in my boat during that time....

also, the brushes? do they have any 'friction' that would affect the shaft??? hopefully not much, if any???

**sailorchic34** · 26-07-2012, 12:41

Actually according the to reg's my anchor light meets all the requirements. The light is wider then the backstay and has less then 3 degrees blocked by the mast or forward stays (I measured) plus its blinding bright.. so that 2 mile thingy is not a probem.. I'm sure the coasties who've passed me at o dark thirty would have complained if it was not up to snuff..

Yes the sea strainer is filled water all the time. The entire unit from the bronze sea strainer to the seacock is 1-1/2" and 2" copper and bronze, all 12"-14" of it. So lots of wetted contact area with the water.

I also checked the resistance in the wire connection from the sea strainer to the point of connection.

I'm not just a blonde bimbo, I'm an engineer.

**sailorchic34** · 26-07-2012, 12:47

BTW, I'm at anchor every night, so my boat being seen is rather important to me. The mast head light, is not idea in areas with lights on the hills (SF bay area) or high rise condos such in southern Florida. Its actually darn near worthless in those conditions...

SV Demeter · 26-07-2012, 13:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

Actually according the to reg's my anchor light meets all the requirements. The light is wider then the backstay and has less then 3 degrees blocked by the mast or forward stays (I measured) plus its blinding bright.. so that 2 mile thingy is not a probem.. I'm sure the coasties who've passed me at o dark thirty would have complained if it was not up to snuff..

Yes the sea strainer is filled water all the time. The entire unit from the bronze sea strainer to the seacock is 1-1/2" and 2" copper and bronze, all 12"-14" of it. So lots of wetted contact area with the water.

I also checked the resistance in the wire connection from the sea strainer to the point of connection.

I'm not just a blonde bimbo, I'm an engineer.

Give em hell Sailorchic. I wish half the clowns in my marina had your sense!

sailinman · 26-07-2012, 13:43

FEDERAL REQUIREMENTS FOR RECREATIONAL BOATS

i couldnt find any 3 degree rule, and I googled and found several mentions that the anchor light should be positioned on top of the mast or highest point...

it wont really matter unless someone hits you and insurance and lawyers get involved and show that you had a diy / non approved device that may or maynot meet reqts'

as for the zinc,

why would stray voltage go past the prop and shaft then go up and into a sea cock and thru a hose to make contact with the anode?

is the hose to thru the seacock always filled? or does the water run down the hose to water level? or is your water filter below water line?

thanks

Vasco · 26-07-2012, 13:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailinman

FEDERAL REQUIREMENTS FOR RECREATIONAL BOATS

i couldnt find any 3 degree rule, and I googled and found several mentions that the anchor light should be positioned on top of the mast or highest point...

This is the worst spot for an anchor light. Just work your way through a crowded anchorage and you will know why. Whether in a dink or another boat nobody looks that high up when going through an anchorage. I tie mine to a jib sheet, at the bow, about 5 feet off the deck.

Lights at the masthead get confused with background lights if you're anchored off a built-up area.

cwyckham · 26-07-2012, 13:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailinman

FEDERAL REQUIREMENTS FOR RECREATIONAL BOATS

i couldnt find any 3 degree rule, and I googled and found several mentions that the anchor light should be positioned on top of the mast or highest point...

it wont really matter unless someone hits you and insurance and lawyers get involved and show that you had a diy / non approved device that may or maynot meet reqts'

as for the zinc,

why would stray voltage go past the prop and shaft then go up and into a sea cock and thru a hose to make contact with the anode?

is the hose to thru the seacock always filled? or does the water run down the hose to water level? or is your water filter below water line?

thanks

Your own link says: "An anchor light for a vessel less than 50 meters in length is an all-around white light visible for 2 miles exhibited where it can best be seen". Arguably, this would make a mast top light illegal because it can't best be seen way up there. However, I don't think a New York Sailing School website is necessarily the definitive word on this one.

Voltage doesn't actually go anywhere as it is a potential field. It doesn't need to go "past the prop and up the hose". However, the ions do need to flow freely in the electrolyte, and I would wonder if there will be enough ion migration to make this work efficiently enough? I honestly have no idea, but I don't think there will be much mixing in the standpipe.

Sailor Chic, could you sketch the cell and ion flow for us schematically so we can understand what needs to flow through the electrolyte? I think we're all familiar enough with circuits and electrons to understand the dry part. It's the wet part that we're stumbling on.

**sailorchic34** · 26-07-2012, 14:02

well the actual code is below:
Navigation Rules Online & 31

As to technical location and angles and such its below:
Electronic Code of Federal Regulations:

Dude, chill. There is no CG approved anchor lights. There are lights citified by third parties to meet CG requirements, but the coast guard and FED requirements don't "approve" a certain type of light. Gee you can hang a kerosene lantern in the rigging and be 100 percent legal.

As to the zinc. because the zinc cell is at a lower reference voltage then the SS shaft or bronze prop. So negative is at the zinc from a galvanic standpoint.

The Sea strainer is anyways filled with water. The zinc is always in contact with the water

sailinman · 26-07-2012, 14:05

i understand that point but want to avoid two scenarios, one is the over zealous coast guard type, and the other is an accident and the subsequent insurance and lawyer situations...

following the laws to the letter seems to be the way to go...., it may not avoid the accident and lawyer situation but at least you can say you followed the letters of the law...

i have seen and heard multiple stories on getting citations for anchor lights... one from a family that was on deck, with multiple white rope lights strung all over the boat, cabin lights all lit, but not anchor light on top of mast....

others had lights but coasties stated it didnt meet regs, for distance viewability... not sure how they tested it or how to present evidence to support or deny that ability,. except to have the mfg state it was tested under that configuration and approved..

i am currently in an approved anchorage, but 'this anchorage' still reqs anchor lights, even though the harbor is lit up pretty well with ambient lights from all around, so the chance of collision seems rare.. and of course about 75% are not using their anchor lights, unless alerted to an upcoming inspection...

sailinman · 26-07-2012, 14:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

well the actual code is below:
Navigation Rules Online & 31

As to technical location and angles and such its below:
Electronic Code of Federal Regulations:

Dude, chill. There is no CG approved anchor lights. There are lights citified by third parties to meet CG requirements, but the coast guard and FED requirements don't "approve" a certain type of light. Gee you can hang a kerosene lantern in the rigging and be 100 percent legal.

As to the zinc. because the zinc cell is at a lower reference voltage then the SS shaft or bronze prop. So negative is at the zinc from a galvanic standpoint.

The Sea strainer is anyways filled with water. The zinc is always in contact with the water

chill? i am chill... why are you defensive???

as for the technical verbiage or semantic of who or how something is approved, I bow to your 'correction'... but regardless my point is the same... if in the event of an accident when lawyers get involved, I would rather have an 'approved'/certified, or whatever by an independant party then a diy item in the discussion? I guess you would rather go thru the process of proving your diy item meets the requirement?

I did look at the link to the full context of the rules and requirements and still cant find the 3 degree waiver/release you mentioned earlier? (under section 30 for anchoring)... Is it somewhere else? if you know I would appreciate your posting that for me so I can put that in my folder, just in case...

Believe me, I want as much diy stuff as possible on my boat as long as it is safe, viable, close to the requirmeent and or a store bought item...

I have asked twice and guess I should give up on the sea strainer thing... but maybe this time will be different??

Is the HOSE from the SEACOCK to the STRAINER FILLED WITH WATER WHEN THE MOTOR ISNT RUNNING? CAN IT SYPHON DOWN TO THE WATER LEVEL LEAVING THE anode submerged in water but no water to conduct the ions from the anode to the open water area???

sorry to capitalize... I just want to be clear as this seems to not be answered yet...

thanks

sailinman · 26-07-2012, 14:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwyckham

Your own link says: "An anchor light for a vessel less than 50 meters in length is an all-around white light visible for 2 miles exhibited where it can best be seen". Arguably, this would make a mast top light illegal because it can't best be seen way up there. However, I don't think a New York Sailing School website is necessarily the definitive word on this one.

.

therein lies the problem.. the arbitrary nature of words, WHERE IT CAN BEST BE SEEN...

from where??? from 3 ft off the beam? or from 1 mile out???

Is it more important to know where there is other boats anchored or whether or not you on an anchored boat already?

If you are in a boat under way, I think it would be best to know there are at least one anchored boat, ahead of me, so I can be on the look out... if I dont see that there are anchored boats until i am a hundred feet away, then I can not reduce speed and adjust course enough to miss that boat...

but if I know there is an anchored boat ahead, I can already reduce speed and be on the look out..

so in my mind, BEST SEN POINT would be the highest point on the ship with the brightest light possible...

but with 'arbitrary' words and all... all the sketches I found, show the anchor light ON TOP OF THE MAST...

no obstructions... cant be mistaken for a stern light or 'two stern lights'...thereby meeting two requirments, ALL AROUND and best possibility to be seen...

airplanes have to deal with 'background' lights and need to be trained and experienced in diferentiating the different navigation lights from a street light...

having to navigate a boat and look up on occasion to see a light vs, being lazy and just trusting what is at eye level is not prudent, imho...

nor compliant... but again, I am asking not really telling...

thanks

**sailorchic34** · 26-07-2012, 14:43

Sorry I'm defensive because your being a little aggressive.

The angle thingy is in the appendix and reads:

b) All-round lights shall be so located as not to be obscured by masts, topmasts or structures within angular sectors of more than 6 degrees, except anchor lights prescribed in Rule 30, which need not be placed at an impracticable height above the hull, and the all-round white light described in Rule 23(d), which may not be obscured at all.

Sorry its angular sector of 6 degrees, which is 3 degrees either side of the mast. My bo..

Again you can't have an approved anchor light as there is no such thing. Certified just means that it meets the 2 mile distance viewing requirement and would be pretty meaningless in a court of law. I mean if I was a lawyer I would be asking how often you cleaned toanchor light lens and how often you checked the wiring for corrosion.

I have no hose between the seacock and strainer. I have a copper pipe that the sea strainer directly connects to. hard piped to the seacock. Sorry just not saying it again.