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Old 03-12-2009, 21:48   #16
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Without having the unit in front of me to look at this is just an idea. How about getting a flat file and filing a small area where the screw will seat. Then instead of a gasket use a fat, soft, rubber o-ring.
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Old 03-12-2009, 21:55   #17
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Normally those screws have a flat plastic washer. On the new screw you could install a O-ring that fits snugly over the threads and when you tighten it down it will crush the O-ring sealing the plug. But it will damage the O-ring upon removal so a new O-ring would be needed each time it were removed, so buying extras would be necessary.

There is a design where a chamfer or counter bore is machined at the entry of the threads called porting normally used in hydraulics where the o-ring seats in perfectly and can be reused. Tosco Tool Specialty Company - Port Tools
But I don't think the LU case is thick enough to do this. Right now the LU has a spot face made with a flat counter bore which are fairly common.

Google Image Result for http://www.custompartnet.com/wu/images/milling/counterboring.png

Any good machine shop would have these in their tooling. And they could not only re-tap for you but should be able to put in a new spot face just like the old one, which would be better then the o-ring. And then install a new size of plastic washer.

This is such a simple job (for myself) but you just need to be able to communicate with your shop on how it needs to be done. The chips getting into the gears is a minor thing easily resolved. The shop just doesn't want to be responsible for damage due to their lack of knowledge/experience.
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Old 03-12-2009, 21:57   #18
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Oops here is the link I meant to include

Mercury Outboard Parts 2002 1015211ZD GEAR HOUSING (DRIVE SHAFT)(2.00:1 GEAR RATIO) Diagram
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:33   #19
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Here are a couple of pics of it. Currently I am leaning towards taking the lower unit off but not apart and continue my search for a shop that doesn't mind working on it like that. Then flushing it out well afterwards... what kind of solvent should I use?
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:53   #20
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WOW!

That has a lot of erosion. That's not just stripped threads, that's a lack of material. I wouldn't be surprised if water hasn't already done some damage internally.

In order to repair that you'll need to get to clean metal, which would require a larger hole. You're going to need to jury rig this one. If it were mine I'd drill it out for a keensert and seal it with Belzona, and create a new face to seal on.

But it's going to take someone in your area that knows how to do that stuff. How much is that LU worth to you?
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:13   #21
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Well, the previous owner had let some bad corrosion take place on the outside of the LU, but any lack of material you see in the hole is the result of my poor work of drilling out the broken screw extractor. The por15 paint I put on has been holding well, but it's scraped off around the hole now.

There's still plenty of aluminum on the case, I think. It's just going to have to be a really big bolt to cover the messy and tapered hole where the old screw head sat.
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Old 27-12-2009, 18:52   #22
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Any idea what solvent I can use to flush out the filings? Thanks
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Old 27-12-2009, 20:22   #23
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Diesel fuel, kerosene, Zep 143 and even paint thinner.
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Old 27-12-2009, 20:57   #24
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If gasoline is a no-no but diesel and kerosene are ok, then what exactly is the distinction? Volatility?

Someone else suggested vegetable oil....
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Old 27-12-2009, 21:21   #25
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Well, there is another option entirely. Stick a soft wood or plastic dowel in the hole. Wax it or oil it so the surface won't stick but it plugs the hole.

Now take a Dremel tool or a grinder, and clean up the surrounding area of the casing for 1/2-3/4" on all sides. Rough, but clean of corrosion. Then apply a heavy patch, 1/2" thick, of "PC7" "MarineTex" or a similar epoxy putty.

And on top of the putty? A 1/4" aluminum plate, with a new hole drilled and tapped in the middle of it.

Yes, this will stand proud of the engine suface by a bit, but it should look perfectly professional and cost you...maybe $20 for the plate and having a shop drill & tap it and supply a matching screw, and another $10 for the putty. Overall repair, $30, will easily last another 30 years.

Although it sounds like you may have already gone and had it retapped by now?
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Old 27-12-2009, 21:41   #26
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Originally Posted by OrangeCrush View Post
If gasoline is a no-no but diesel and kerosene are ok, then what exactly is the distinction? Volatility?

Someone else suggested vegetable oil....
Gasoline is highly flammable and should not be used to clean anything except as a last resort. The breathing of the fumes are highly toxic and it only takes a spark or static to create a major problem.

Veggie oil will leave a residue and some non-petro/incompatible product behind.

BTW A self taping screw would be just the same as a tap. Self taping screws are designed to speed up the manufacturing process but still leaves behind chips.
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Old 27-12-2009, 22:57   #27
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That's not a bad idea, hellosailor. I hadn't thought of that.

I haven't done the tap yet, but I did get the LU off and ready for the shop. Putting a plate over it would settle my concern of interfering with the drive shaft when they do the tap.

How much of an effect would the drag of that plate have? I'm thinking it could be considerable. I guess I could smooth it out with faring compound.
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Old 28-12-2009, 08:22   #28
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Wouldn't I have problems with temperature expansion differences between the case and the epoxy/plate? It sounds like a great idea but how can I know I can trust that epoxy to stay on?
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Old 28-12-2009, 08:58   #29
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I can only say that I've had PC7 (a two-part paste that used to be packed in 35mm film cans, very similar to MarineTex in finished setup) holding together a Bakelite soldering gun for...welll...since Plaid Stamps days, and the epoxy putty is just as strong as the Bakelite. That stuff is "forever" in all practical terms.

Drag? Well, use a thinner (but still solid) layer, and fair the edges instead of making them stand proud. Ditto on the aluminum plate, grind/file the edges to a low angle, and maybe use 3/16 plate instead of 1/4". I'd say go down to 1/8" but you start running out of metal to put threads in. :-)

When they are applied to clean surfaces, those epoxies, even the "plumber's epoxy putty" sold in rolls in the hardware store, work very well. I'd have no concern about it coming loose, especially if the back of the aluminum plate was roughened up with some sandpaper and then promptly gobbed with the epoxy, so it got a good grip before the oxide layer really formed up.

This is like using 3M 5200 to set through-hulls and keels: It isn't going to come off without a fight. (And I think it bonds better than 5200 to metals.)

Heat? If you can keep your hand on it, that shouldn't be too hot.
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Old 28-12-2009, 12:49   #30
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I think the Marine Tex would last longer than the engine. Years ago I ran over a rock that poked a hole in the gas tank of my car. I was at the boatyard so got a can of Marine Tex off my boat to make a temporary repair. Since I had no place to jack up the car I reached in with a wire brush as well as I could and knocked off the mud and then daubed a little Marine Tex on the 1" gash with the end of a stick. Figured I would get home and have to do a real patch job. 5 years later I sold the car and the temporary patch had not leaked a drop. This was in south Florida so parking on top of black asphalt in summer the tank got plenty hot enough to expand the metal and I saw no problem with the Marine Tex coming loose. I think it stays somewhat flexible and will move with the joint.

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