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Old 22-04-2008, 01:10   #1
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Sail Drive Rubber Seal Connection

What gleu or sealant to use to attach the rubber seal to the hull around the sail drive leg

I know there have been previous posts but cannot I find them

Greetings

Gideon
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Old 22-04-2008, 08:51   #2
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I used 5200, and I attached them exactly the same. One fell off, and the other is going to need a grinder to get it off????????????????? I will be glad to get the input on this question. I was thinking of making some plastic covers myself the next time the boat is hauled, and screw them in place?
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Old 22-04-2008, 08:55   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imagine2frolic View Post
I used 5200, and I attached them exactly the same. One fell off, and the other is going to need a grinder to get it off????????????????? I will be glad to get the input on this question. I was thinking of making some plastic covers myself the next time the boat is hauled, and screw them in place?
we have used bostik , sika , contact glue but all no good
with speeds over 15 knots they always come off./
In the Next fastcat we place an insert so they will be slightly recessed and that should help but what to use with the cats in the water now.

Greetings and thank you

Gideon
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Old 22-04-2008, 09:29   #4
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Let me know when you find the solution! I have my diver periodically just stuff them up inside the cavity. No one I've talked to really has a solution. I'd like to just basically fill the void space with something softish. The drives need to be loose so it can't be a tight stuffing method. They have a bit of play when shifting from fwd-neutral-reverse.
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Old 23-04-2008, 00:57   #5
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Originally Posted by cchesley View Post
Let me know when you find the solution! I have my diver periodically just stuff them up inside the cavity. No one I've talked to really has a solution. I'd like to just basically fill the void space with something softish. The drives need to be loose so it can't be a tight stuffing method. They have a bit of play when shifting from fwd-neutral-reverse.
The void insidie the drive leg we fill with polystyrene foam density 30 and the sail drive leg will make its own space when moving around

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Old 29-05-2008, 13:11   #6
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This foam idea gives me a thought. Use the rubber boot to coveer the hole, and the foam will take to the shape. Maybe put some vaseline on the drive leg to keep the foam from sticking? Then fabricate a plate for deflecting the water?
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Old 29-05-2008, 13:47   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imagine2frolic View Post
This foam idea gives me a thought. Use the rubber boot to coveer the hole, and the foam will take to the shape. Maybe put some vaseline on the drive leg to keep the foam from sticking? Then fabricate a plate for deflecting the water?
We first put the vaseline on to the drive leg part in the void and than glue on the rubber bottom and thru a hole we fill the expanding polystyrene foam , after about 8 hours it is dry and we cut of the excess extruded foam.
It works well and gives a few kilo,s extra lift .

Greetings
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Old 29-05-2008, 14:07   #8
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Next year when I haulout. I am going to do this. Do you rock the drive leg back, and forth while the foam is setting up? Gideon, did you ever get my question about Boyen feathering props?
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Old 29-05-2008, 14:12   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imagine2frolic View Post
Next year when I haulout. I am going to do this. Do you rock the drive leg back, and forth while the foam is setting up? Gideon, did you ever get my question about Boyen feathering props?
No do not bother the engine and sail drive leg will make the space easy enough when sailing / motoring ,

Yes I did see that question but did not realize it was directed at me , no I am not familiar with these props
I have excellent experience with the following props
1. flex o fold 2 blade racing for reasonable cost and a very low resistance
2. Gori 3 blade folding props , super props but very expensive good efficiency for a folder
3.Kiwi prop good lightweight but not suitable over 15 knots
4 Autostream 3 blade feathering stainless good forward and reverse but feathering so you pick up the occasional plastic bag or so.

Greetings

Gideon
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Old 29-05-2008, 14:31   #10
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fastcat.....THANKS
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Old 29-05-2008, 14:50   #11
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Does filling the void with foam make it difficult (more difficult) to remove the saildrive in case repairs are needed?

George
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Old 29-05-2008, 17:40   #12
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We jsut replaced the rubber boot on our saildrive. There were lots of sea creatures making home in the void so we cleaned that out. We debated filling the void with something, and I voted against.

Primarily for the reason of getting it out later.

We made a boot out of sheet rubber material, prepared the hull surface by scraping, sanding and cleaning with solvent. Then we attached the boot with contact cement as that is the material that looked to be on there. Really "snotty" stuff.

We are due to haul out in about 6 weeks. I'll let you know how it worked out.
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Old 29-05-2008, 17:46   #13
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Does Foam Give a Safety Factor?

Fastcat wrote: "We first put the vaseline on to the drive leg part in the void and than glue on the rubber bottom and thru a hole we fill the expanding polystyrene foam , after about 8 hours it is dry and we cut of the excess extruded foam. It works well and gives a few kilo,s extra lift ."

Fastcat: I worry about the upper round seal around the sail drive (held by metal ring) which keeps the ocean out. Do you think the expanding foam might avoid a catastrophic leak if the upper seal failed? If so, that's another good reason to fill that void with foam.

Regarding the lower rubber fairings on the hull: I glued them to the hull with a 3M glue recommended by the yard. One came off in a week and the other came off in a month. I made a mistake by not reusing the thin aluminum strips the previous owner used to attach the outside edge to the hull. He used small screws that penetrated a fiberglass lip around the circumference of the hole. Next haulout, I may try to fabricate the fairings out of fiberglass using the rubber ones as a mold. Not sure how to attach them, but I have some time to think about it.
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Old 29-05-2008, 19:40   #14
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When I changed mine I cut dense foam to fill void and fibre glassed over as per the original factory build.Spoke to designer Alex Simmonis about this as I couldnt work out how to do it.Only problem being redoing if leg needs to come out.
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Old 09-06-2008, 12:49   #15
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I think factorys should make a recess where the outer rubber seal sits so if this seal is mounted in the recess it will sit better and stay in place longer while the extra resistance is less.
It was my intention to do so but with exception of one customer all have opted for the Green Motion retractable system so we will just do it for this one client
\Greetings

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