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Old 04-07-2008, 08:31   #31
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Cal 2-29 - Changing the flex coupling is pretty straight forward. There are four bolts on each end of the coupler. Remove all eight bolts and nuts, slide the shaft back 1/4" and the old coupler should come right out. Reverse the process for reinstalling the new one. This all addumes that your setup is the same as my 1974 Cal 2-29 with the single cyl Farymann
As you might have guessed by this thread, shaft / engine alignment is critical to the longevity of these couplers.
I have had no problems with my new one now.
Let me know if you need more information or pictures.
Thanks
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Old 04-07-2008, 12:04   #32
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Thanks. My marina told me the part alone cost about a grand, and it would be quite expensive to fix. If I can get the part for around $300 and install it myself, I'm way ahead. I guess I'll take the old one off and see what's involved. It looks pretty straight forward. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I did install the throttle assembly and new ignition myself. On a scale of 1 to 10 how would you rate it?
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Old 04-07-2008, 21:55   #33
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Cal...do you know what the part is that you need?

I don't know of any coupling that cost $1000.00

Try posting a picture of the coupling.

Also, the manufacturer should be able to give you details on installation of their product.
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Old 05-07-2008, 07:13   #34
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Here's a stock photo of the flex coupling. PRP Inc. - Global Engine & Engine Parts Distributor - Diesel Parts & Accessories - K30 Flex Coupling (Powered by CubeCart) The only difference is mine has a 4 bolt attachment.
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Old 05-07-2008, 07:17   #35
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Clausont, did you have to loosen the stuffing box to slide the shaft back? I had my cutlass bearing replaced a few years ago and was told they used some kind of hydraulic tool to pull the shaft out.
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Old 05-07-2008, 07:54   #36
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I did not have to loosen the stuffing box or move the shaft back enough to remove the flex coupling. I don't know about other installations, but the flex coupling is what held the shaft from moving backwards toward the rudder. You shouldn't have to move the shaft much at all to clear the flex coupling. On mine, I just grabbed the shaft flange, and rotated the shaft a little while pushing back on it. No problem. It shouldn't require any other equipment to move it.
If for some reason you need to remove the shaft flange, it can be done with longer bolts and spacers. I believe that there is another thread here in the forum outlining how to do that, but you may not need to remove the flange unless your existing one is damaged.
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Old 05-07-2008, 12:58   #37
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Just a note....as with Yanmar engine mounts....make sure that you never get any diesl or oil on the rubber....it degrades quickly. As I looked at the image you sent
replacement is fairly simple (as long as you don't hve to be a contortionist to get to it.) At the price listed, I would carry a spare.
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Old 07-07-2008, 18:50   #38
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Got the front (engine side) of the coupling off no problem. It looks like there is some sort of set screw holding what I assume is the shaft flange? I ordered the part from PRP (they said 5-10 days) and I plan on replacing it myself. The part was about $300. The best "score" of the day was an OEM rubrail from D&R marine. My rubrail has been shot for several years, now while the boat is on the hard I can get caught up on some projects. Anyone replace the rubrail before?
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Old 07-07-2008, 20:46   #39
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Nearly there with the flex coupler!
I had the rubrail rubber off of my boat, cleaned it up and replaced it. If your rubrail is the same as mine, then again - a pretty easy deal. Unbolt the two metal caps at the stern ends of the rubrail (each should have two bolts through the hull to deck joint) and the rubrail should just pull right off. It just kind of pinches the hull to deck joint all the way. Reverse the procedure to re install it. Should take you a half of an hour total. Make sure to clean and inspect the hull to deck joint while you are there.

Sounds like a great score there. Last I looked, a new one is about $300.
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Old 08-07-2008, 13:58   #40
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FWIW, it was not hard for me on my Tartan 30 with the custom coupler using the standard flex parts (see my post above)...about 2-3 hours total; it would have been less but things were cramped so getting in there to tighten things up was a little tricky. The right tools help alot, and if your engine needs alignment, I can't help estimate (yet). I've been careful but my remade coupler has been working fine, and a brand new one is on the boat if the current one breaks again.
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