Pull to port under power

[markpierce]

My boat has propwalk to starboard both forward and reverse. (Direction of walk depends on whether the propeller is left or right-handed.)

[Symphony]

I have a 120% genoa, and an asymmetrical chute. Some guys I know run a 130% as well as a little self tacking jib from A solent stay. I don't see any need for that, even in the light air of Long Island sound in the summer. The boat sails easily w the 120% and the gigantic mainsail are plenty enough. Or use the chute to make your own apparent wind.

You will want a Dutchman system or good lazy jacks to handle the huge mainsail.

Check the bolts that hold the swim step, water gets in around them while motoring and then starts rotting the core. You'll see the gelcoat skin bubbling up and around the boltheads on the transom. Cost me over $1000 to fix mine.

Sorry but I do not remember pitch and diameter of the prop. But it is the stock three blade fixed prop. I have not had any problems with my boat other than the swim step. It is a 1999 model.

[Tortuga's Lie]

Symphony,
Thanks, the swim step does have the cracks develop already, so I already know that it's on the repair list. I talked to Art over at Tartan and talked to him about the repair of it. Since it is an appendage, I can take it off easy enough and work on it over a winter.
I was thinking of a 120% or 125% myself. The current genny looks to be a high-cut 110 or a 115 but to my eye, it looks too small for light air. The main does have lazyjacks already, so we should be good for that. We did get her up easily to hull speed with the old sails (17 years old about), so I am thinking a new set will really get her up and scoot.
This is hull #28, 1998.
Tom

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Tortuga's Lie

The engine is a Yanmar 4jh4-te and it made it up to 3300 rpms, which I guess should be 3600 rpms.....

Sounds like you are about right Many recommend 10% under max.

[Tortuga's Lie]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Sounds like you are about right Many recommend 10% under max.

OK, good to know.

[Symphony]

Yes, I fixed my swim step during the winter. It is very heavy so we used a forklift while the boat was on the hard.
A 1998 model will still have the louvers on the cupboard and locker doors, that is what I have, and I far prefer it over the modern lack of ventilation or just a simple routed slit in the door.
You will be amazed how new the gelcoat will look if you can clean it and then wax it.

[Tortuga's Lie]

Originally Posted by Symphony

It is
A 1998 model will still have the louvers on the cupboard and locker doors, that is what I have, and I far prefer it over the modern lack of ventilation or just a simple routed slit in the door.
You will be amazed how new the gelcoat will look if you can clean it and then wax it.

Yes, I prefer the louvers as well. I just think they look more nautical plus the benefit of better ventilation. I have a lot of louvered doors on my T-37. Does yours have the teak or cherry? I personally like the teak, maybe for traditional appearances, even if it is a bit darker

[Symphony]

I had teak on my T34-2. Super looking and hard. I have cherry now which is softer but lighter both in color and weight.

I think the first two model years of the T4100 were standard with teak, then teak was optional upgrade for a year. Teak would cost a fortune now and look old-fashioned.

Good luck with your new T4100. You will never need to get another boat. Sails easily In light air but it loves big seas and gales too.
One thing: get a anchor sail. The boat does like to sail at anchor

[jcapo]

Originally Posted by Tortuga's Lie

The engine is a Yanmar 4jh4-te and it made it up to 3300 rpms, which I guess should be 3600 rpms.....

The 4JH3-TE manual I have says 3800 max, 3700 continuous. Check rpm with a laser tach. Yanmar tachs can be off quite a bit. Some can be adjusted.

[Symphony]

my T4100 - hull 37 - has the non-turbo Yanmar 4JH4E - 55hp. great engine that sips diesel. max 3200rpm, cruises at 2800rpm.

if you anchor out much, get a FinDelta Anchoring Sail from Banner Bay Marine. The T4100 loves to sail and it moves fast, this includes when it is at anchor. with the FinDelta the boats sits like a rock. my wife and I love it.

[Tortuga's Lie]

Originally Posted by Symphony

if you anchor out much, get a FinDelta Anchoring Sail from Banner Bay Marine. The T4100 loves to sail and it moves fast, this includes when it is at anchor. with the FinDelta the boats sits like a rock. my wife and I love it.

Good to know! What about anchor chain, how much do you use? On my T-37, I used to sail at anchor all the time like you, but I switched to all chain rode and it pretty much stopped the sailing at anchor business, but the extra weight forward is a little bit of a penalty for sailing performance.
The 4100 I am purchasing has 200 feet of chain, which is way too much for the Chesapeake, so I will most likely reduce that down to about 125 ft until we are ready for full time cruising.

[Symphony]

I have 65' of chain, still the boat likes to sail. also when on a mooring. the anchoring sail is like magic. I've been in 45 knots of wind day and night, and the boat was steady. before I got the Banner Bay sail I had the boat break out its anchor by sailing around in 25 knots of wind. that was a drag. at night.

i use the sail even if we are stopping only for lunch. easy to rig.

[Tortuga's Lie]

Originally Posted by Symphony

I have 65' of chain, still the boat likes to sail. also when on a mooring. the anchoring sail is like magic. I've been in 45 knots of wind day and night, and the boat was steady. before I got the Banner Bay sail I had the boat break out its anchor by sailing around in 25 knots of wind. that was a drag. at night.

i use the sail even if we are stopping only for lunch. easy to rig.

Pun intended? Isn't it always at night?
I googled the anchor sail and it looks well built. I could easily build one myself, but the asking price is reasonable and probably not worth the hassle of building one!

[Redline452]

I have a 4JH2TE on my 45' Jeanneau. She had a tendency to slew off to one side (I think port, but no longer sure) under power, which we resolved by - wait for it - tightening the steering cables a bit.

When loose, the prop thrust sort of "pulsed" the rudder, and any slack let it move a bit each time, working its way farther over. Just a little more friction in the system calmed things down. May be worth trying, it's an easy fix and reversible. Good luck.

[Moreorless]

Just to throw a little fog into this discussion, I bought a new Hunter 380 a few years back and we had a strong pull to starboard when under power. Everyone told me it was prop wash, that it was the result of the standard two bladed prop that came with the boat. Someone told me that the Max prop would solve this problem so I contacted PYIinc in nearby Lynnwood and with the suggestions bought the three blade Max prop.

I had it installed and did a test run and we still had a strong pull to starboard. So back to haul out where a good friend of mine who is an engineer measure the rudder and we found out that the rudder had a slight curve to it that would make the boat go to the right.

Under sail, we probably went slow enough and with the pressure of the sails it was not noticeable. However, I did contact Hunter Marine and they did confirm that a "few" of their rudders were not accurate. They sent me a new rudder and when installed the boat handled perfectly. PYI says their Max props produce little or no prop walk.

Since this episode with my boat I sometimes wander the boat yard and look at rudders. It is interesting how many skippers say their boat pulls this way or that and they have in my estimation a faulty rudder. Except for full keel boats--they never have this problem.

The good that came out of this is that I had a lot of respect for Hunter in sending me the new rudder and I have total faith in PYI and the Max prop. Indeed, when we downsized to a new Hunter 27 eight years ago we mandated that it have the three blade Max prop regardless of costs. I learned a lot from all of this.

I wish you well.