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Old 25-11-2009, 00:55   #16
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Originally Posted by James S View Post
Actually technically speaking its correct that you may be able to replace the cutlass with out taking out the shaft.
It depends on how you can pull it out...how much of it can you get a hold of? how is it held in place? set screws?
I think if you had intimate knowledge of it you may be able to do it.
I was under the impression that the removal of the bearing is done by introducing a hacksaw blade in the shaft passage and making a longitudinal cut though the copper shell allowing for its folding and withdrawal, how can I pull it out with the shaft in place ?/
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Old 25-11-2009, 04:38   #17
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I've never removed mine...but I have a spare and the previous owner said there are set screws in the hull, which I have seen, you loosen them, and drive it out from the inside.
When he did it the shaft was out.
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Old 25-11-2009, 05:59   #18
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There is a special tool made to press out a cutlass bearing with the shaft still in place. Boat yards occasionally have it but most don't. After its removed you slide it off the end of the shaft and this tool will press a new one into place. You probably could do it in water but the tool is somewhat cumbersome to use, has several pieces to it that all have to be lined up correctly to work and in water that would be tough I think.
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Old 25-11-2009, 07:31   #19
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without removing the shaft ???
Yes. With the shaft still in the stuffing box very little water will ingress into the boat. If I knew how to post the pictures, I would post a couple I just took. I'll try to learn how to post pictures. A couple of friends of mine made this tool and I contacted them and made one for myself. It is small and easily used and all in one piece. Like I said, having a prop that is easily removed is the key. I have a Maxi-Prop so I'll still have to haul to remove the cutlass.

Gbendaly,
I'll post a couple of pictures. It will not help you with this one you need to change, but will make the next one almost painless.
WD
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Old 25-11-2009, 07:38   #20
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stern tube
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Old 25-11-2009, 09:20   #21
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Here are some links for removal tools. I made my own that is a slide hammer style but it only fits 1" shafts and 1-1/4" OD bearings.

Strut Pro Cutless Bearing Replacement Tools

Cutless-Bearing Replacement

Replacing A Cutlass Bearing (Photo Heavy) - SailNet Community
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Old 25-11-2009, 12:07   #22
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Good looking tool. Nice write up also.
WD
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Old 02-12-2009, 15:32   #23
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. I have a Maxi-Prop so I'll still have to haul to remove the cutlass.


WD
I also have the max prop and it's easy to remove. In fact I routinely take it apart when hauled out just to relub the gears. The newer ones have grease fittings so taking it apart is not needed, but I fail to see how it's any more difficult to remove a max prop over the fixed prop. Actually if you're doing it in the water then...yes I would want to be hauled.
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Old 05-12-2009, 14:33   #24
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Yes, on a 25.00mm shaft inside diameter of bearing will be between 25.16 and 25.26mm. Once a bearing starts to wear the wear accelerates as the contact area at start up reduces dramatically. When running there is very little wear as the shaft should be running on water, but in an oversized/worn bearing it may not support a water film to hold the shaft away from the bearing material.

These are figures for a fully composite bearing material known as Maritex. It wouldn't be possible to change these in the water as the preffered fitting is to bed on epoxy and you need to be able to heat the carrier to soften the epoxy. Tis does make them easy to remove and instal and gives a check on carrier alignment as you can spin the bearing in the carrier on the shaft.

In a nutshell, it needs changing, it needs to be done out of the water, but it will probably keep running with noise an vibration for a number of hours before it fails completely.
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Old 16-12-2009, 12:26   #25
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In my younger, "broke sailing" days I learned a couple of tricks. In retrospect, neither is worth the effort unless you have no other choice.

IN A PINCH, you can raise the rear engine mounts slightly and re-align to the engine to the shaft in a higher position. This will slightly cock the shaft in the bearing, temporarily decreasing play. Of course, this will also affect the shaft's position in the stern tube which may may cause stuffing box leakage. Note that this will not work dripless seals.

I have also changed mine in the water. However, it did not fit super tight in the strut and there was plenty of room to work betweent the prop and rudder, your results will probably vary:
Remove prop
Loosen the set screws
Drill a hole in a hardwood block to match shaft size
Place new bearing in position behind old one
Use block to drive new bearing into the strut, pushing the old one out
Cut old one off the shaft with hacksaw
Replace set screws
Replace prop
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