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Old 06-10-2008, 17:47   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northeaster View Post
It seems much louder in forward, than reverse.
That actually sounds like a thrust bearing.
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Old 06-10-2008, 18:01   #17
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44' Cat - Could you give some more info on thrust bearing - I am not familiar with it!

Thanks to everyone for the input!
I will check or replace the belts next time out, just to rule that out!
However, since it doesn't do it neutral, I am leaning more to one of the drive train suggestions - damper plate, trannie, stuffing box or cutlass.

After checking the belts, I will unbolt the shaft form the trannie, and try running the engine, in fwd and reverse. If the noise is gone, I will reattach the shaft loosen a turn on teh stuffing box.
If that still doesn't fix the noise, it is likely (as Never Monday described) the shaft rubbing against the cutlass, and wearing through the rubber in a couple of spots.

I have all winter to fix things, but as mentioned, I don't want miss the opportunity to check things on the water.

When the boat is out, I can have a close look at the cutlass bearing, and rotate the shaft by hand, to see if the noise is there!
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Old 06-10-2008, 19:03   #18
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That actually sounds like a thrust bearing.
the KM2 gear box he has uses a hardened thrust washer. I doubt it would squeal. When a KM2 is going bad you get a vibration at first engagement of the gear that goes away at higher RPM.
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Old 07-10-2008, 02:55   #19
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Yanmar Service Manual ~ REDUCTION AND REVERSING GEAR
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Old 07-10-2008, 05:08   #20
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Last year I had trouble with the trannie not shifting / engaging fully in gear, unless you shifted by hand on the trannie shift lever - Problem was mostly due to missing spring joint at end of shift cable, and older larger shift cable. Added the proper spring joint in winter, and took trannie apart, lapped drive cones against fwd and rev gears (with valve lapping compound). My brother is an experienced auto mechanic, so he helped with this!
Shifting this year has been flawless - has never slipped out of gear, etc. No vibration!
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Old 07-10-2008, 05:54   #21
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When you uncouple the shaft from the tranny you should check the alignment with a feeler guage before you bolt it back together, especially if the noise goes away.
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Old 07-10-2008, 06:10   #22
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Take a spray bottle of water and squirt the belts and any other external part you think is the problem. If the noise goes away for a second or 2 you found the problem area. Works good on any rotating/friction (external) part. Might eliminate something that's a "bolt on".

Steve
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Old 07-10-2008, 18:27   #23
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Was out to the boat today. Did not do everything i wanted, as I had friends out for a sail, and had limited time. Did find the following:

- noise is NOT from belts. It is farther back, in either the transmission / damper plate, or shaft / cutlass.

- Did loosen the stuffung box a couple turns, while motoring - enough to let frequent drips. Did not reduce the noise!

- Did not have time to disconnect the prop shaft from the trannie to see if noise stops (is in trannie). However, I also wonder if this would tell me anything, as the engine / trannie would not be under load, and tjhis may affect the noise.

I am beginning to wonder if the noise (sort of squealing / light screaming noise) is just normal, and i never have really noticed how loud "normal" transmission noise is!! As I mentioned earlier, for most of this seaon, I noticed it, but thought it was just a bit of belt noise, so I didn't worry about it. I don't motor that much, so it hasn't really been an issue. And, since the boat is currently overpropped (will fix during winter), I don't rev the engine past 2000/2200, as it will smoke unburned fuel (and I am doing 5 1/2 - 6kts at that rpm anyway) The noise really only becomes noticeable at higher rpms / higher shaft speeds.

I will definitely check the cutlass bearing for wear / play, when the boat is out of the water.

re: feeler gauges, I know this is the accepted way to check clearances. However, as the cutlass bearing / strut is about 2 feet from the transmission coupler, there is sufficient play in the shaft, that it is possible to move the end up/down, back and forth enough that I don't think feeler guages would work. The shaft (with one half of the coupler) presses up cleanly to the other half A(on the trannie), usch that it is tight together, all around. I do NOT have to tighten the bolts, for example, to pull it tight together!!

Now for a stupid question (that I know has been asked before). On the km2a (or other km2) transmission dipstick, there is a fill indicator line about 1/4" form the end of the stick. I believe that is the full mark! Is this correct??? There is also a hole in the dipstick, but it's about 2" from the end, but I am pretty sure that's not the fill level, as it would be very full!! I know it only takes something like 1/4 liter/quart of oil (don't have my manual on me), so that's why I believe it's the lower mark that inidcates full!!

I really appreciate all of the great advice!! Thanks for taking the time to help me!!
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Old 07-10-2008, 18:48   #24
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Based on everything else you have checked my guess is raw water pump shaft.

When belts are suspect I have sprayed silicone on them at while running and listened for a change in noise.
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Old 07-10-2008, 19:03   #25
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Old 07-10-2008, 19:29   #26
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Now for a stupid question (that I know has been asked before). On the km2a (or other km2) transmission dipstick, there is a fill indicator line about 1/4" form the end of the stick. I believe that is the full mark! Is this correct??? There is also a hole in the dipstick, but it's about 2" from the end, but I am pretty sure that's not the fill level, as it would be very full!! I know it only takes something like 1/4 liter/quart of oil (don't have my manual on me), so that's why I believe it's the lower mark that inidcates full!!

I really appreciate all of the great advice!! Thanks for taking the time to help me!!
on the KM's pull the dip stick, wipe it clean then set it back on the threads. DON"T SCREW IT IN, pull it out and read it. this is the full mark.
the little hole is the vent. look in the flats of the hex cap. you'll find a hole there too.
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Old 08-10-2008, 07:23   #27
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SilentO - I really don't think it is the water pump, as there is no noise when I rev up the engine in neutral (the water pump is still turning fast).

Since I know now that I do have the correct oil amount in the transmission, (thanks Never M) I just have to figure out if it is a "normal / acceptable" transmission or shaft noise, or if it is something like the shaft waring against the cutlass bearing, and burning through the rubber, at a couple of pressure points (if the shaft is misaligned with the cutlass!)

When we had the transmission apart, to lap the drive cones, my brother (mechanic) thought that the damper plate, bearings, and everything looked fine, and went together very well.

I will try to get some experienced locals to have a listen, or the local diesel mechanic, if I can find him (very busy now).

Thanks again!!
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Old 08-10-2008, 21:18   #28
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This one went

over my head...Hunh?

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Originally Posted by Weyalan View Post
Jimmy "the rat" Gambino
Joey "songbird" Donetti
Jack "stool pigeon" McMananman

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Oh...wait a minute "squealing"......it took my two neurons and one synapse a little while to figure that one out.

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