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Old 19-12-2008, 16:43   #16
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Australian alternative to Max (cost) Prop

[quote=Spirit28;234088].

Dan - I would dearly love to get another max prop, but with the Aust $$ very low to the US $$ it puts up to over $3K here, so I will probably be looking at a slipstream or autostream which are made in Aust, or a Kiwi prop.

FWIW:
We used an Autostream on our previous boat and found it to be a good piece of kit. Had around 2K hours on it when we sold her, and to my knowledge it is still in good nick now some five years later. Besides being a LOT cheaper than a Max Prop, we liked the ability to easily change the pitch while the boat is in the water. (Can be done free diving with a ring spanner and a screwdriver -- way easy!) Their newer stainless steel model seems even better.

The one thing that many fail to realize about feathering props of any brand is their relative inefficiency. This is an inherent feature, and is due to there being no twist in the prop blades. In our case, we went from a good (Martec Elliptical) folding prop to the 3 blade Autostream. As expected, the new prop had lots of static thrust in both directions, but we suffered a 25% loss in fuel economy. Fuel was cheap in those days, but it meant a 25% reduction in motoring range, which was an issue for us (old race boat, small tanks). So, on Insatiable II we chose to go with a good (Flex-O-Fold) 3-blade folder, and are happy with it. Not as much grunt in reverse, but lower drag sailing, and good efficiency going forwards!

Hope that you can come to a good resolution...

Cheers,
Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II lying Gladstone, Qld, Oz
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Old 19-12-2008, 16:52   #17
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#15 = There are the OLD versions of the 3 bladed maxiprop, and the newer ones. Mine (old style) does not have any zerts on it.

I just did my haul out (4.5 years between) for bottom paint (Trinidad SR!!) and also had to replace the cutlass bearing. When I popped the prop off, it still had plenty of grease in it ... it was the blue stuff.
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Old 20-12-2008, 05:38   #18
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There are two set screws along the side of the hub. remove them and temporarily insert the grease fitting, pump in the grease and then move the prop through it's motion range and pump in more. Then remove the fitting and replace the set screw. There are two along the side if my 15 inch.you need to use both to comply fill the inside.
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Old 14-01-2009, 14:11   #19
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Just seen this thread and quite enjoyed watching the videos showing the prop in details.

On a slightly different subject is it a good idea to paint the Maxprop with antifouling, has anyone already done it ?
I have a standard 3 blade which is unpainted rigth now, but since we are in warm waters it seems to get dirt too fast ...which lowers its performance. Fuel mileage and moreover manoeuvers in harbors impeded. So as long as the water is clear we can dive, the case in the west indies, but was quite different along the coast of Brazil . So since we are heading towards less clear and colder water are contemplating painting it; what do you think ?
Thx, Kev
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Old 14-01-2009, 19:43   #20
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I have never seen a painted Max Prop. My guess is that if you called PYI about it, they would recommend against it.
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Old 15-01-2009, 04:58   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev View Post
Just seen this thread and quite enjoyed watching the videos showing the prop in details.

On a slightly different subject is it a good idea to paint the Maxprop with antifouling, has anyone already done it ?
I have a standard 3 blade which is unpainted rigth now, but since we are in warm waters it seems to get dirt too fast ...which lowers its performance. Fuel mileage and moreover manoeuvers in harbors impeded. So as long as the water is clear we can dive, the case in the west indies, but was quite different along the coast of Brazil . So since we are heading towards less clear and colder water are contemplating painting it; what do you think ?
Thx, Kev
This is our biggest fouling problem now. Since putting Micron Extra on the hull we have beaten the barnacles except for the prop. We are going to try 2 experimental coatings, one on each blade and see if we can get the prop under control.
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Old 15-01-2009, 11:23   #22
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Interesting experiment... pls keep us posted.
I have also just sent a request to the Maxprop agent to see what they have to say.
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Old 17-01-2009, 21:35   #23
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max prop

PYI sells a spray coating for the max prop. I have used it but have not seen the results yet. I also coated it with anhydrous lanolin, when I haul in a few months I will post results.
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Old 18-01-2009, 00:35   #24
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If you decide to paint your prop, you should first cold zinc paint the prop before putting the antifoul on. Then use a hard antifoul over the cold zinc because the prop is turning at speed. Maybe an ablative over the top of that in a different color to show when it has worn off. The cold zinc pervents leaching from the bronze of "something" ( can't remember, but suspect zinc) that the antifoul attacks when painted straight onto bronze.
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