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Old 21-10-2009, 09:41   #31
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working with a 4" grinder is a bit of an art. If you are talented wit it you can do a real nice job. Just get rid of the "added" stuff, A little grinding into the base hull is not an issue. When you are done just make sure the strut fits nicely to the hull. Any bare glass should be coated with epoxy resin, or epoxy primer. yes install per above and then fair into the strut if you want to. It's really not necessary, but will look nice. If the "base plate" of the strut isnt very thick... maybe 3/8" or less you can just make a nice fillet out of the 5200 that oozes out. I dont know where you are located but if colder climes it may take 3 days or so for the 5200 to set up.
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Old 21-10-2009, 10:07   #32
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Just grind down to clean material and make sure it is still adhering to the boat. Remove all excess 5200 from the edges. Do not fair with caulk (5200) it will peel at the edges and look like crap. That is what amateurs do and it shows. Apply the fairing putty with one of those plastic spreaders. Make sure the putty does not overlap ant bottom paint. Smooth out after it is dry with a orbital or DA sander. I would coat with a barrier coat, but if you are using an epoxy or vinylester filler you do not really need to. You should not grind down to bare glass but if you do make sure you seal it. Do NOT coat the bare glass with epoxy and then add filler on top only coat anything after all fairing is done. For grinding on a job like this I like to use one of those 3" spin lock discs at a slow rpm, will not sling dust everywhere and give you more control, wear a particle mask and long sleeve shirt. Despite what Cheechako says fairing is part of the job and helps lock the strut in place. Also if you ever go to sell the boat it will make a difference. It adds little to the overall cost and time and will make for a more professional job. Sorry Cheechako not trying to pick on you but I have been doing this for a long time I know what I am talking about.

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Old 21-10-2009, 11:21   #33
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I hear ya....

Well, if I was doing it I would use epoxy and filler and fair it in as you say. But I have to temper advice with the situation. If he has the epoxy and filler without running to the store and buying a container of each and spending $40 more OK. It's a small old racer cruiser, The new owner is already doing a lot more than he probably thought he would, the strut appears to be pretty thin base metal (1/4"?)... cant really tell, the PO tried to fair it in obviously unsucessfully. I hate to overburden the owner with our "perfectionist" attitudes. Realistically, if it is well done and unfaired it will be a forgotten thing and seaworthy once back in the water. If there is nothing else on the list during haulout then heck, spend as much time as possible, but I suspect there are other things that need attention...?
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Old 21-10-2009, 12:01   #34
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Cheechako Good point and you are right I tend to have all this crap laying around and it is no big deal, and admittedly I do a lot of work on bigger boats where cost is not a factor. But still when giving advice I tend to err on the side of doing it right. When asked i always say what I would do on my own boat. Thats the thing about boat boat work ask 10 different people and you will get 10 different answers, 9 of which are likely to be right just different. And we are after all both just trying to help

Thanks
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Old 21-10-2009, 22:21   #35
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Wouldn't it be a better idea to prepare the surface and then use 3M filler(either the High Strength or Premium)?

Lay it on the strut, bolt it up and then remove the excess that squeezes out.

I'm sorry, I don't use 5200 for anything...ever. Don't like the stuff...never did.
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Old 22-10-2009, 05:14   #36
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Well it would appear that I am going to be doing this myself. The yards glass guy stood me up all week and 2 indpendents that I called myself no showed yesterday.
Doesnt sound like its going to be too bad of a deal. As far as doing more then I thought........ I think thats any project. Id much rather do it right once then do it half twice. I will let you guys know how it turned out.
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Old 22-10-2009, 05:22   #37
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This is one place 5200 is the right stuff to use. 5200 is a adhesive sealant and that is just what you want in this application. The filler is too brittle and will not stick well to the bronze water will be able to seep in. b-rad pm me and I will send you my number and we can talk about this if you like.

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Old 22-10-2009, 05:28   #38
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Hey if any of you guys could look at my other thread about my rudder and offer insight that would be awsome
What's Wrong with My Rudder and How Do I Fix It?
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Old 22-10-2009, 07:50   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief Engineer View Post
Wouldn't it be a better idea to prepare the surface and then use 3M filler(either the High Strength or Premium)?

Lay it on the strut, bolt it up and then remove the excess that squeezes out.

I'm sorry, I don't use 5200 for anything...ever. Don't like the stuff...never did.

Sorry Chief but this is a very stupid idea!! any vibration or shock load in the strut is going to crack the stuff and again the leak problem ,, and the isue to fair or not to fair the strut with epoxy is just a cosmetic choice,Regards..
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Old 22-10-2009, 08:32   #40
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If you are going to use a 4 inch grinder get yourself a fine chicken plucker. They will be a little easier to control then a hard ginding wheel. Practice a bit on a pice of hard wood if you haven't used one before.



Me? I would use a poly sulfide like a Life Caulk but since the strut is not something you take out often the 5200 is probably ok. Just don't draw it up hard till the next day.

Honestly, this is not a big job and you'll save enough to take your wife out to a nice dinner versus hiring it out.

Good luck,

Joli
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Old 22-10-2009, 09:29   #41
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Wouldn't it be a better idea to prepare the surface and then use 3M filler(either the High Strength or Premium)? That's pretty much what I said in my early post, (although I suggested resin and cloth) I had assumed there was some "matching" needed from the pics, evidently it fits well. I would prefer something with some fiber in it to filler though... if there is a gap to fill, or a "pad/riser" to construct for the reasons neilpryde mentions. I guess we differ, I use 5200 for darn near everything, never had a leak that way... then again, when YOU are asked to remove it years later.... you're probably cussing at me.... I think in the end on this job, you have to be there and make the choice, hard for me to assess all the details from here, it's probably done by now!
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Old 22-10-2009, 21:52   #42
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I like the give and take here. I can see both points. In either case preparation is 90% of the job.

And Neil....just voice your opinion calmly
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Old 22-10-2009, 22:03   #43
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Sorry Chief if you misunderstand my post! i say is a stupid idea!! not that you are stupid! is diferent!! and still think is a very bad idea to glue the strut with any kind of hard stuff, maybe for fairing the gap ok, but in the base a sealant!, Good Luck.
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Old 22-10-2009, 22:47   #44
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No Problem....That 5200 is tee-nay-shus for sure.

I know one guy who could never use the stuff without getting it on everything.

Even between his eyes (from pushing his glasses up) or leaving the tube out in the sun where it would ooze over everything. His solution? Wear a Tyvek suit.....

Don't worry tho', he doesn't work on boats any more.
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Old 22-10-2009, 23:18   #45
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Well, i dont find in the market a better product to seal tru hulls, depth sounders, ground plates, struts , bearings etc...
Also 5200 cures underwater too, is a very dirty work with the white dead , some tons off paper and acetone make the experience easy, another similar product is sykaflex 292 ......
But hey!! mate , you dont like 5200??? can you tell me pls what stuff are you using to seal holes in the hull? ......
Last time i see how tee-nay-shus is 5200 is when a yard try to remove a 5000 pounds fin keel from the hull , amazing....
Cheers.
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