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Old 08-02-2011, 22:00   #16
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Hi
I have a ZF5H transmission of a 18hP Kubota marine diesel. The transmission seems to keep slipping out of forward gear under load. This is my first boat and I am having trouble finding information on this type of transmission. Can anyone help? Are they simple to remove for overhaul by an engineering novice.
Any help appreciated
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Old 27-03-2011, 15:12   #17
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Re: Hurth HBW 150 Problem

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Originally Posted by mofsubic View Post
This transmission is easy to disassemble. Based on your stated problem and that you have changed the oil. The only thing it can be is your clutches. These are easy to replace. I have attached a Page from the Manual. My only advice is being careful when buying new bearings. Some of the companies sell them for $250 a Pair for the big bearings on the input and output shaft. These bearing should only cost about $10.00 each. Also when you install the big bearings be sure to heat them to 100C. If not the amount of force to hammer them on with an aluminum pipe will dislodge the roller bearings.
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I have a 150V that is slipping the same way as other's descriped, laast year I had a overhaul kit replacement added and this year its slipping, where can I get a manual? I want to try myself so I can understand what is happening.
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Old 28-03-2011, 11:16   #18
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Re: Hurth HBW 150 Problem

These units are sensitive to the shift mechanism position. If your shifting cable is not adjusted to allow the the lever on the transmission to fully engage to the forward and reverse detent, it will be a problem. There was a service bulletin about this on this model many years ago.
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Old 28-03-2011, 14:59   #19
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Re: Hurth HBW 150 Problem

Go to Torreson Marine Inc. site. The exploded manual is there.
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Old 08-04-2011, 22:46   #20
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Re: Hurth HBW 150 Problem

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These units are sensitive to the shift mechanism position. If your shifting cable is not adjusted to allow the the lever on the transmission to fully engage to the forward and reverse detent, it will be a problem. There was a service bulletin about this on this model many years ago.
It woked I disengaged the cable and was able to engage the transmision both ways, the lever trvels quite a bit I am wondering if this can be adjusted?

GG
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:19   #21
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Re: Hurth HBW 150 Problem

You can adjust the cable position by moving the nuts on the bracket that holds it in position. Make sure that foward and reverse at the topside control lever allow the transmission to fully engage both ways. I do not believe there is any way to adjust the throw on the transmission. If you have to hold the lever to keep it in gear, you have an internal problem with the transmission and you have a bigger problem.
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Old 09-04-2011, 06:58   #22
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Re: Hurth HBW 150 Problem

Most Morse cables have a 3" travel, and my Hurth (HBW 360A) needs about 1-3/8" travel each way, leaving only about 1/8" room each way for adjustment. There are two holes on the lever, the outer hole leaves no room for adjustment at all as it needs 5mm of more travel according to the manual.

The lever on the top of my transmission is not keyed to the shaft. I found I got much finer adjustment by adjusting it rather than trying to move the cable mount. A few iterations of making sure the trans shift fork was in the middle of its "slop" between hitting forward and reverse, at the same time the shifter was in neutral, and it works much better now.
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Old 09-04-2011, 08:03   #23
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Re: Hurth HBW 150 Problem

I thought my 150 was keyed, but I could be wrong. The adjustment was the cable inside the bracket with the retaining nuts, not the bracket itself as I recall. I can see there might be some variation in the set up. Whatever it is, it is important on Hurths that the cable allow full engagement to the detent for forward and reverse. It is worth checking when you are down there. Stuff moves.
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Old 01-02-2014, 17:09   #24
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Re: Hurth HBW 150 Problem

I know this is late, but I figured I'd add it just in case someone else runs into this thread. I've rebuilt my HBW150, and posted a long description of the process here. I hope it turns out to help someone else.

By the way, once you get the thing apart, you'll see that the shift-level-movement requirements in the manual are a little misleading: you do have to shift as far as they say, but you can shift farther without any worries about what's going on inside. (Don't shift so far that you can't get back, i.e., so that your cable and the arm are lined up!)
-John
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