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Old 10-11-2006, 20:29   #16
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Different strokes for different folks. But not on my boat!
I'd be out there with a hand drill, even though I have other means, before I'd bend a washer. On cotter keys, the forces are not on the bends.

There's a big difference between a boat and a Harley. And the washers are a soft malleable metal. Call NASA and ask how many washers they bend? I've worked in the space industry. NADA!
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Old 10-11-2006, 20:32   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Nui
fstbttms, I can not seem to get the cad drawings to open. Oh well.
I did take a good look at their product at the boat show this year, but the one thing that is bothering me is the fact that they failed to respond to the email I sent about the original thread. And no, there is no bent washer on the Gori
I couldn't get the drawings to open either. I thought it was me
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Old 10-11-2006, 20:35   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delmarrey
Different strokes for different folks. But not on my boat!
I'd be out there with a hand drill, even though I have other means, before I'd bend a washer. On cotter keys, the forces are not on the bends.
There is little force on the bent washer in this scenario. The prop is, of course, fixed to the shaft by the key. The washer merely keeps the nut from spinning off.
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Old 10-11-2006, 20:36   #19
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Point taken Del. Of course, that leads to the question, how much strength is lost from a hole drilled into a stainless shaft with a loose fitting cotter pin? Clearly not a major issue as you rarely hear of the end braking off a shaft.
As for NASA, I do not claim to be a rocket scientist. I prefer brain surgery as a hobby
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Old 10-11-2006, 21:28   #20
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Old 10-11-2006, 21:32   #21
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Were just kickin sand
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Old 10-11-2006, 22:18   #22
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fstbttms,
I'm having the same problem with the CAD drawings from gori. Can't open them.
Oh well. I just won't use a bent washer.
By the way, which way do you bend it and how would it keep anything from turning off a thread? Wouldn't it just turn off with the nut? Unfortunately with the props and shafts we're going to be torqueing the prop and nut the "off" direction at least part of the time.
Kind Regards,
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Old 10-11-2006, 22:48   #23
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JohnL, The washers talked about here are a large flat washer with an inside tooth that fits in the keyway. The outer edge is folded over one of the flats on the nut. This will lock the nut from turning. These are commonly used in automotive applications on crankshafts. They are also used on Harleys on the transmission shaft to hold the trans sprocket on. While this environment is not salt water, it is about as roungh an environment as any application.
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Old 10-11-2006, 23:03   #24
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Gori instruction sheet

Here are a couple of photos of my Gori instruction sheet.
I hope they're clear enough.
Steve B.
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Old 10-11-2006, 23:07   #25
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Gori instructions

Watch out for eyestrain when you try to read this!
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Old 10-11-2006, 23:11   #26
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Old 11-11-2006, 13:24   #27
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fstbttms-
"Go to the Gori web site for CAD/CAM drawings and stuff:
http://www.gori-propeller.dk/"

Either that web page is unfinished and there are no downloads and no drawings available, or they are using active script technologies which do not run when a browser is in high security mode. And there is no reason for a web site to rely on those problematic ways to displaying things, if they are doing that, it merely indicates their "web guy" is still in high school.

As I stated in the first thread--there is no technical information actually available from the Gori site. At least, not to those of us using MSIE6+, fully patched and fully secured.

Exactly where and what did you see on their site?
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Old 11-11-2006, 14:18   #28
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Well now that I think of it, I DO have the instruction sheet. It's in 4 languages, too. There's an exploded diagram as well. I haven't figured out how to post a pic, but it's pretty basic. It's just a hub, a couple of blades, a nut a couple of ss pins and some allen screws.

--------------
Installation Instructions:


1. Take the propeller apart.

2. Check that the hub fits the cone of the shaft and ensure proper seating without key interference.

3. Mount the hub on the shaft and tighten the nut (4) very tight.

4. Mount and tighten the allen screw (5). Secure the allen screw by smearing it and the threaded hole with the enclosed locking glue, e.g. loctite 242.

5. Grease the moving parts of the blades with a water resistant grease. Mount the blades (2) and the steel pins (3). Watch that the marks 1 and 2 are opposite each other.

6. Smear the allen screws (6) and (7) and the threaded holes with the enclosed locking glue. Tighten the allen screws (6) very hard. Countertighten the allen screws (7).

7. Check that the blades move freely from closed to open position.

8. Mount a zinc anode on your shaft.
Aloha Senor,
Thanks very much for the copy of the illustration. It helps me a lot. I could not read the installation instructions. Are they any different from the above that I got from Steve B?
Kind Regards
JohnL
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Old 11-11-2006, 14:43   #29
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If those are literal instructions, I can see some problems with them.

"Very tight" is ambiguous and subjective. Bolts should be tightened to a torque spec, and even without a torque wrench that spec gives you an idea of how tight things should be.

Loctite? Doesn't work well except on clean surfaces, unless the screws and holes were degreased before shipping, they need to be solvent cleaned in order to get the Loctite really gripping them. The instructions on Loctite used to say that specifically, I'm assuming they still do.

"Tighten the allen screws (6) very hard." Again, no torque specs? With brass and steel one hopes one can't strip these out...and one rarely meets a torque wrench for allen screws.<G> But still, it is nice to have a numeric goal instead of "very hard". A mechanic with pot metal allen wrenches from the dollar rack, who didn't know about degreasing before Loctite, and wasn't told the Loctite might be *essential* not optional, could easily get bad results from these instructions.
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Old 11-11-2006, 15:41   #30
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I posted the words exactly, and I agree with you about "very hard", etc.
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