Can this be cleaned up and OK?

[tdoster]

Originally Posted by bratzcpa

thank you for everyone for your comments. You guys are awesome.

so, let me clarify a couple of things:

First, the boat is on the hard right now. She's sitting on stands. We'll be heading down (we are Montana) to where she is stored in Florida, spending a couple of days provisioning and doing some "stuff" before putting in the water and heading offshore (Bahamas) for two months.

Different Story being on the hard.

1. How is the cutlass bearing? Lift up and down at the prop, does it have movement?

2. I would probably take this time to do it right and not worry about it later. Pull the shaft, clean it up, clean up and remove the packing. Take it all to at least a machine shop to be blasted. Replace the hose and the clamps, and either put the old clean coupling back on, or have it fit and faced by a prop or good machine shop that knows how to do it.

Removing the coupling could be another issue, but I have found that PB Blaster, TIME and patience win all battles and I have had a few.

3. Decide if you want to replace with PSS, I wont argue for or against only to say both methodologies have faired well that I have installed and both have failed in the real world primarily because of lack of maintenance or poor installation. The newer packing materials negate the need for the corrosion (lubrication) drip, but require more attention.


At the very least, replace your packing and your clamps and check the hose carefully. Use a dental pick and make sure to get all the old packing out before stuffing in the new.

[four winds]

bratczpa, on the hard then, good time to renew everything. Might as well replace the shaft log hose ,too.

A stuffing box often looks very corroded but just as often will loosen right up. The course threads help with that. A spray of PB Blaster can't hurt.

Careful not to overtighten on the hard, since there is no water to help judge the adjustment. Adjusting underway works well as another said, if you have easy access. I don't.

Waited until I docked after splashing to make adjustment. Still needed a tweek a few days later. And still even now need to do it again to sneak up on the final adjustment. I guess I'm too concerned about overtightening. But at least the shaft won't be grooved I hope.

[Sun and Moon]

Originally Posted by bratzcpa

We'll be heading down (we are Montana) to where she is stored in Florida...

If you're at Green Cove, the machine shop there made me a new shaft for I think $150. Mine is quite short, but longer isn't going to change the price that much. I'll wager there is quite a bit of scoring on your shaft.

[Pete7]

If the shaft cleans up and is in good condition with no groves caused by the original stuffing box, then replace the lot with a volvo seal. They are cheap, work very well and don't leak.

Made a big difference to us having dry bilges.

Pete

[RaymondR]

It does not appear that the wire tie is actually being used to hold the hose to the stern tube

It is amazing the things people use them for.

A few years ago I installed a new clamp on a shifter cable which had been attached to it's anchor by cable ties. The owner was maneuvering into a dock, made a hurried shift into reverse, then accelerated into the boat ahead when the cable tie broke.

[Rustic Charm]

seeing your on the stand, get rid of it and install a Pss or volvo seal.

PSS are wonderful in my opinion. So nice having dry bilges.

As someone else said though they are not entirely maintenance free and when they fail, they do so because of complete disregard.

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by bratzcpa

........................
........................ I will replacing the cutlass bearing while its on the stands before putting in water. ........................

The proper sized new cutlass bearing will likely have very little clearance to insert. Be aware of their allen set screw locations for fitting them in place. It's often a wise choice to place the new cutlass bearing on ice or in a freezer for some time before fitting it in the stern tube.

[RaymondR]

seeing your on the stand, get rid of it and install a Pss or volvo seal.

PSS are wonderful in my opinion. So nice having dry bilges.

I'll second this. Battled with the old style packing gland for years and tried a number of other solutions and finally gave up and installed a PSS gland about two years ago, the reduction in maintenance at the back end of the engine is amazing, I can finally keep the area corrosion free.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Sun and Moon

If you're at Green Cove, the machine shop there made me a new shaft for I think $150. Mine is quite short, but longer isn't going to change the price that much. I'll wager there is quite a bit of scoring on your shaft.

? Coats Custom Machining & Fabrication ?
(904) 572-2183
Chuck Coats' full-service machine shop at the marina entrance can turn & true prop shafts, weld all metals, and fabricate just about anything.

[Drift Woods]

Go dripless, my new to me 320 is a 1996 and doesn't have any of the rusting or corrosion problems associated with sea water.


By the way. What temp does your 3gm30f run at? Mine runs at 160 degrees at 2500 and 170 when I push it up to 3000. Ive googled it and found most run from 160 to 180.


Best of luck, Woody