I've removed the bungs and screws about every 3' in the planks immediately above and below the chine to randomly check the fasteners. They are bronze and in great shape so it appears no new fastening of the planks in the hull is necessary. She's been out of the water in the Brookings Oregon
harbor boat yard for about six months, which is where she was when I found and bought her.
The tsunami that resulted from the Japan
earthquake in 2011 also hit the northern CA and southern OR coasts and did substantial damage in Brookings and other harbors. The "NOYO", which is my boat, was rammed on the port side by another boat during the event and took out the bulwark above the deck
line and below the rail. The rail is in great shape, but I've got to replace about 30' of mahogany planks between it and the deck
The boat sat in the water neglected by the original owner for close to 15 years and after the tsunami the owner abandon it. The Brookings Port Authority acquired title to her to pay back slip fees
and I bought the boat from them as a derelict destine to be dismantled and scrapped. I only paid $12K for it, which is about what the 800 gallons of diesel fuel
that's on board is worth, along with the two Ford Lehman diesel
The hull is in exceptional shape and fiber glassing it is out of the question, as it would eventually decrease the hull's life expectancy versus extend it. I'm leaving the original cotton alone and using Sikaflex in the seams over it after cleaning
up and removing old loose caulk. The only dry rot is above the waterline and that's been caused by a poor design in rain water drainage off the cabin
roofs and decks, which I'm correcting.
Of the fresh water leaks
, the one that's going to be most time consuming is re-caulking the seams of the 3/4" teak planks on the upper foredeck in front of the pilot house, which is leaking into the "V" birth. Other than minor dry rot in the planks above the waterline, the worst of it is in the exterior doors on the port and starboard sides of the pilot house, which I'm replacing with new ones after fixing the drainage problems causing it.
Probably as consuming is going to be restoring the dry rotted areas where steps go up from the side decks (breezeways) between the bulwark along the cabin walls of the salon
to the upper foredeck. Water drains off the upper foredeck like Niagara Falls behind these steps onto the lower side decks. The bulkheads behind both sets of steps needs replacing along with the steps themselves on both port and starboard sides.
While it's in the yard I plan to do temporary fixes to these fresh drainage water problems and I'll save the permanent repairs
till after the boat is in the water. My major effort while in the yard is being spent on sanding, caulking, repairing damage to the port side bulwark, and painting the hull up to the top of the rail on the bulwark, so I can get her back in the water by the end of September.
of the boat is all teak, with incredible joinery and teak parquet floors. Other than some minor refinishing of some teak that has had rain water leaking in on it, the interior
needs hardly any attention. The 1st thing I did after acquiring the boat was scrub the entire interior that was painted with bleach to eliminated whatever mold
there was. I will eventually upgrade the stove, counter tops, and drapes but that's about it.