new here Steve from AL anyone cruise in aluimin

[rsn48]

One last one, this video shows an idiot putting himself and three others at risk. This is an active tourist area where tourists come to watch stupid boaters. There is another area I anchored in with a buddy, he chose the area. During low tide their is a canal like entrance to an inner gunkhole.

At low tide, the water drops to about a foot and a half, in other words, you can't transit it. My buddy chose the area to watch the power boaters try and go up the "creek." Why did they try, because they used land based maps which shows a wider channel, not a marine chart that would have helped them out along with a tide table. We floated down the creek in inner tubes, quietly sipping champagne as we watch boater after boat come up the creek, oblivious to visual clues the water was extremely shallow. One chap had to have his boat pushed backwards.

Now on to this idiot featured in the following video. The transit worked out for him, but all four would have been in trouble if the current had grabbed there boat and sent it spinning:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=nK1K1LUE-Qc

[Capt. Steve1]

Originally Posted by Fence Man

Did someone say aluminum?

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Very cool vessels.

I'm currently designing/building floatation pods like on the tunnel flats fisher.

BTW how deep of water can the bow go though and still spear the flounder?

[Fence Man]

Originally Posted by Capt. Steve1

Very cool vessels.

I'm currently designing/building floatation pods like on the tunnel flats fisher.

BTW how deep of water can the bow go though and still spear the flounder?

The little flats boat actually had a deep draft in my opinion. With no load, she'd draw 8" or so. The sharp rake also pushed a wake out front if we trolled too fast. It is only 12' long, so there's only so much real estate to work with.
Good luck with your pods. Only advice I have is to sleep on the math before you push the green button on the plasma table.

[macaco]

I also have an islander 221, no hardtop though. Currently replacing rivets, welding broken ribs,replacing the floors/sole and transom.
Doing 55 MPH in that hull pounding waves will quickly get you in my predicament, broken ribs where the waves hit the hull. Find a good aluminium welder in your area.
We do overnighters at long point lake erie. Salmon trolling day trips on lake Ontario. Great boats but you wouldn't catch me 60 miles offshore.

[Capt. Steve1]

Originally Posted by Fence Man

The little flats boat actually had a deep draft in my opinion. With no load, she'd draw 8" or so. The sharp rake also pushed a wake out front if we trolled too fast. It is only 12' long, so there's only so much real estate to work with.
Good luck with your pods. Only advice I have is to sleep on the math before you push the green button on the plasma table. Attachment 176981

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Very nice layout on the pods and weld/fabbing.
I’m partially attaching my directly to hull. Plan to cut a I-beam in half and weld to transome skin then rivot my box.
do you're pods have floatation or are they airtight? you added weight was you water level lower meaning less drapht before pods?

Originally Posted by macaco

I also have an islander 221, no hardtop though. Currently replacing rivets, welding broken ribs,replacing the floors/sole and transom.
Doing 55 MPH in that hull pounding waves will quickly get you in my predicament, broken ribs where the waves hit the hull. Find a good aluminium welder in your area.
We do overnighters at long point lake erie. Salmon trolling day trips on lake Ontario. Great boats but you wouldn't catch me 60 miles offshore.

Yes you are correct I need to slow things down offshore hitting those big waves and the repeatedly slamming of hull which resulted in midship port side three revitos on outside row of seam.

Strange thing about these 3 missing revitos yes they loosen then they will eventually wiggle completely out then there’s a leak.there is a row of three revitos where the freeboard panel is attached to the lower panel each rib had three rows and each missing revito was in the middle row kindof strange I think. opposite midship side uneffected.

Plan to reinforce this port midship floor to freeboard reinforcement kindof like the john boats are made.


Please post images of the cracks in the welds.

you could easly attach a hardtop on you'r islander.

just recieved my new upolisary so I can now slap some sponge together for a nest pad to lay and sleep on.I'm in the process of making
couple patches for aft.deck seat recover.

I'm still waiting out the nasty GOM weather and the red tide for my next 4 day cruise.

[Fence Man]

Pods need to be airtight, then there is no reason for flotation. They added buoyancy, so shallower draft with the pods.

[macaco]

Pics of repair work

[Capt. Steve1]

Originally Posted by Fence Man

Pods need to be airtight, then there is no reason for flotation. They added buoyancy, so shallower draft with the pods.

here's my pod plan. I have calculated each styrofoam block worth 500LB floatation 1 inside engine pod 1 on each side of engine pod.

w/ 1500LBs of stern floatation along w/ original flotation should keep vessel afloat upright, even if completely swamped.

I expect to gain a couple inches of drapht.for shallower water.

Originally Posted by macaco

Pics of repair work

that is serious crack on the rib but easily repaired.
you will find that bending a piece of AL isn't that difficult I would wrap a piece of AL around a rod /pole forming a new stronger rib, weld the original crack then add the reinforcing patch.

what is the last image of loose revitos?

when the next few revitos come loose, I plan to expose floor again (I replaced my cabin flooring from bulkhead to aft deck) clean then cover each revito w/ west sys. G2 expoxy designed from AL. hull sealing.

here's my current plan for reinforcing the midship bottom/freeboard seam (weak spot) brace.

edit:you're Islander is exactly the same inside the hull except for the extra angle teing the ribs and freeboard together?

[Capt. Steve1]

seams there is a time limit on editing.


where exactly is this cracked rib? I bet port midship.

[Fence Man]

The foam you have planned will go in a sealed float pod?

[Capt. Steve1]

the pod I've designed probably won't be airtight because raw water pickup tube goe's though port pod. could seal star but it's very diffacult.

I know because I tryed to seal my engine pod.

[Fence Man]

Originally Posted by Capt. Steve1

the pod I've designed probably won't be airtight because raw water pickup tube goe's though port pod. could seal star but it's very diffacult.

I know because I tryed to seal my engine pod.

That smells a whole lot like adding a bunch of weight to the transom, no? There is nothing to gain, in my mind's eye, by hanging waterlogged foam on the back of a powerboat. At anchor seems to be the only time there would be any flotation benefit, since once you are on plane, the weight is just hanging, right? I suppose it would be of some benefit if she ends up inverted. Why not make it all watertight and ditch the foam? Maybe I'm not tracking with the spirit of this project.
I wasn't the smartest kid in the 8th grade, but I was the only one that could vote.

[Capt. Steve1]

Originally Posted by Fence Man

That smells a whole lot like adding a bunch of weight to the transom, no? There is nothing to gain, in my mind's eye, by hanging waterlogged foam on the back of a powerboat. At anchor seems to be the only time there would be any flotation benefit, since once you are on plane, the weight is just hanging, right? I suppose it would be of some benefit if she ends up inverted. Why not make it all watertight and ditch the foam? Maybe I'm not tracking with the spirit of this project.
I wasn't the smartest kid in the 8th grade, but I was the only one that could vote.

I estimate added weight to be less than 15LBs

the higher in the water the vessel sits the less amount engine is needed,higher is more efficient.

plan to seal styrofoam w/paint then wrap in AL revitoed to stern.

[Fence Man]

Originally Posted by Capt. Steve1

I estimate added weight to be less than 15LBs

the higher in the water the vessel sits the less amount engine is needed,higher is more efficient.

plan to seal styrofoam w/paint then wrap in AL revitoed to stern.

For the sake of argument, I'm going to argue. The only advantages float pods provide, are shallower draft at rest, and shallower water take off capability. With a long jack plate, you MIGHT get some tunnel benefit, but I doubt it. They'll make the boat squat less at takeoff, but don't raise the stern at speed. Your outboard bracket is acting in similar fashion to a jack plate, without the adjustability. Further back you move the OB, the higher you can run it. Same principal as a Thai longtail or surface drive....The water is above sea level 6' behind the boat, so the prop is actually higher than the bottom of the boat.
Here's the flaw with running an outboard as high as you can in big water: Weather is deadly. In a blow, you want to be able to get the bow up.....Especially in a small craft. Trim up with an elevated OB, and she blows out before you ever get any bow rise. On my do all boat, I have a jack plate. It's great to be able to get on plane and raise it up to run the shallow parts of the river, but it's primary function is to be able to drop the OB as far as possible so I can get the bow up when we get caught in tight rollers, and not swamp the boat.
Again, I'm just making conversation for the sake of argument. 7" of rain here yesterday, so no fence to build until the river goes down.

[Capt. Steve1]

Originally Posted by Fence Man

For the sake of argument, I'm going to argue. The only advantages float pods provide, are shallower draft at rest, and shallower water take off capability. With a long jack plate, you MIGHT get some tunnel benefit, but I doubt it. They'll make the boat squat less at takeoff, but don't raise the stern at speed. Your outboard bracket is acting in similar fashion to a jack plate, without the adjustability. Further back you move the OB, the higher you can run it. Same principal as a Thai longtail or surface drive....The water is above sea level 6' behind the boat, so the prop is actually higher than the bottom of the boat.
Here's the flaw with running an outboard as high as you can in big water: Weather is deadly. In a blow, you want to be able to get the bow up.....Especially in a small craft. Trim up with an elevated OB, and she blows out before you ever get any bow rise. On my do all boat, I have a jack plate. It's great to be able to get on plane and raise it up to run the shallow parts of the river, but it's primary function is to be able to drop the OB as far as possible so I can get the bow up when we get caught in tight rollers, and not swamp the boat.
Again, I'm just making conversation for the sake of argument. 7" of rain here yesterday, so no fence to build until the river goes down.

Basically I’m extending the engine pod this won’t be a tunnel type w/ pods on both sides of engine.

I’d like to get floatation where I can get it.

I haven’t yet tested the newly stuffed engine pod remember this pod was designed to take on water (still is very strange to me) and would fill rater quickly, I usalley stuffed the pod w/ laundry bottles thinking if laundry bottles occupied the area there would be less water inside pod.

I can still get following seas at rest so I’d like the vessel as high in water as possible not nessarly just the engine.

Additionale infor about my repower to OB the set back is 20” engines catvitation plate is raised 1 ¾” above the keel.