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Old 15-12-2013, 06:43   #46
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Re: Help! Transitioning from sail to twin screws

Given what I know about running at night (30 mph, not so great), and what I think I know about your winter temps, not sure I'd trust much of what your seller said about winterizing... unless you'll be on the boat 24/7 with other heat sources running.

The whole regime is extensive and with details specific to your boat, and varies somewhat depending on whether you're storing in water our out, but in very general and abbreviated terms:
- run potable (environmentally friendly) antifreeze through your engines and then shut the thru-hulls
- ditto genset, if you have one
- ditto air conditioning, if you have one
- run potable antifreeze (aka pink stuff, RV stuff) through your freshwater systems (drinking water), "saltwater" (river, whatever) washdown systems, if you have one, hot water heater, etc. This is the one where the system can be largely emptied with compressed air, and you may or may not need pink stuff at all except for your waste holding tank. (A waste tank thru-hull should be closed, too.)

The light bulb idea is pretty good, though. Also, a low speed fan can help move that slightly heated air around, helps minimize condensation. You could put a light and a fan on a timer...

If wintering in the water, you may need a de-icer... which usually keeps water moving enough that, along with the movement of the boat itself, means ice usually won't start lifting the hull out of the water...


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Old 15-12-2013, 07:50   #47
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Re: Help! Transitioning from sail to twin screws

Originally Posted by ranger42c View Post
... The light bulb idea is pretty good, though...
All good advice.

Id recommend using a Silicone Coated Rough Service lamp, in this application.
ie: Philips #149716 ➥ Sil Ctd 100W Med 120-130V A21 RS 2WR - Philips

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"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"

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Old 15-12-2013, 09:24   #48
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Go the light bulb route, but use two. Always have a backup for everything
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Old 15-12-2013, 12:42   #49
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Closing the thru hulls is a good idea, as long as you remember to open them when you start the engines. One, two or more light bulbs also a good idea as long as they are on a stable mounting. There used to be 'brooder heaters' for use in poultry coops to add heat. These were basically a wooden base with a sheet metal tube and top which radiated heat. If you are going to use the boat during the cold months, you may not want to completely winterize it as you will have to repeat it every time you use it. Also remember to provide for air circulation under any covers to prevent moisture build up and condensation which will lead to mold growth.
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Old 15-12-2013, 14:37   #50
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Re: Help! Transitioning from sail to twin screws

You want to get some idea how a twin is handled around a dock go to your local tractor dealer and get a demo ride on a zero radius turn riding lawn mower. The type with rt and lt hand handles that you push or pull to turn. When I got on my resent twin after having a string of singles I reverted to my mower experience and it all went well. Maybe you can volunteer to mow some lawns to get practice.
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Old 29-11-2015, 10:24   #51
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Re: Help! Transitioning from sail to twin screws

Sorry to disagree with the posters who say ignore the helm but...1. To spin fast to port use port in reverse, std in forward AND helm in port. If you turn the rudder to stb this will WALK the boat to port (the stb engine will push the stern in and the port will pull the bow over, thus keeping the boat straight and walk her) Reverse process for stb twist or walk. You can also treat her like a single and use standard helm and thrust tactics, just use both in forward or reverse at the same time.

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crew, sail

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