Blank canvas for design

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by Steady Hand

How about a bulb bow?

And in it, include a port(s) with CCTV camera(s). Might be pretty cool in clear water reef passages that have good visibility. Also have one pointed down, for viewing the bottom in shallow clear water. All linked video going to the large flat screen monitor in the bridge or saloon. Cool for guests to see the "glass bottom boat" like show.

Anyone remember Cousteau's RV Calypso's viewing area in the bow?

I like the idea of a viewing port, that would be really fun. But I have doubts about using a bulbous bow on a boat this size. They can work very well, but they are really tricky to design. The bow shape has to be optimized for one speed, and any deviation from that results in added drag. So as long as you are willing to accept traveling at only 9.2kn you could see a savings, but if you travel at 9.1 it will hurt a lot.

I know Nordhaven offers them as an option on their larger boats (I think over 70') but not on their smaller ones.

There is also a real issue with how they effect the anchor chain.

[SimonV]

This is NOT going to be moderately expensive. Did you win the lottery.

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[NoTies]

We will be getting all the hotwork for the hull done at close to cost due to our relationship with the builder and designer (we sell his boats for him). The fit out work will be performed over 5 years or so with our inhouse staff and, along with our agencies for a wide range of marine equipment we will be paying dealer rates for most of the materials. I've done a few of these types of projects over the years, just never for my own boat so we are pretty well grounded in what to espect. We haven't set a budget yet as it is still in concept stage.

[gjordan]

Something that I havent seen mentioned is Side Deck bow thruster, and main engine controls. I assume you will have a bow thruster on this size boat. I once worked on a 120 foot motor yacht that had bridge controls on both side decks. The engine controls were regular cable controls, and the bow thruster controls were foot switches with a welded safety bar above them, so that you could not step on them by accident. The skipper was not of brain surgeon quality, but he was the best boat handler that I have ever seen. He could put that 120 foot boat along side a dock that had 125 foot of space. Of course it was twin screw , but the foot controls, out where you needed them for visibility were wonderful. Just something to think about. ______Grant.

[NoTies]

We'll probably run Hynautic controls for the engine but haven't decided yet on exact configuaration. I personally favour cockpit controls for docking but will reserve my decision until we finalise a design. And yes, a bow thruster will most likely be on the cards. I'm happy berthing a boat this size without one but would like one provided it doesn't impact adversely on performance and economy.

[SimonV]

Originally Posted by NoTies

We will be getting all the hotwork for the hull done at close to cost due to our relationship with the builder and designer (we sell his boats for him). The fit out work will be performed over 5 years or so with our inhouse staff and, along with our agencies for a wide range of marine equipment we will be paying dealer rates for most of the materials. I've done a few of these types of projects over the years, just never for my own boat so we are pretty well grounded in what to espect. We haven't set a budget yet as it is still in concept stage.

I wish you well and hope to see the progress in person.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[waggy]

Great post.

Regarding the wet exhaust..

Originally Posted by Zach

If you choose to go with a wet exhaust, you can save a lot of money in the long haul by installing 8-10 inch fiberglass tubing from the engine room to the transom at a healthy rake. All the drains, scuppers, sinks, air condition returns can drain into it with fiberglass barbs glassed into place. Quick, easy, down and dirty... Everything is able to be inspected and visible with no extra through hulls. It takes time to properly install a through hull, backing plates, bonding wires... It takes relatively little time for glass guys to take a hole saw, pop a hole in a tube... Slide in a fiberglass pipe and wrap it up in three or four layers of biax and let it set up.

Are you suggesting to run drain lines into the exhaust lines? If so, how do you prevent the vessel from filling up with exhaust fumes?

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by NoTies

We will be getting all the hotwork for the hull done at close to cost due to our relationship with the builder and designer (we sell his boats for him). The fit out work will be performed over 5 years or so with our inhouse staff and, along with our agencies for a wide range of marine equipment we will be paying dealer rates for most of the materials. I've done a few of these types of projects over the years, just never for my own boat so we are pretty well grounded in what to espect. We haven't set a budget yet as it is still in concept stage.

I'm glad you explained the money aspect. I figured it was in gest or someone has deep, deep pockets. I guess it is only deep.

[Zach]

Originally Posted by waggy

Great post.

Regarding the wet exhaust..



Are you suggesting to run drain lines into the exhaust lines? If so, how do you prevent the vessel from filling up with exhaust fumes?

The idea is to step the 2-3 inch engine exhaust up to 8-10 inches, after having run the exhaust gasses through a wet muffler to cool them down. Run a splitter to divert a portion of the water from the raw water pump to split what goes through the wet elbow, to feed a gear or fuel cooler and send it overboard at the waterline on the side of the boat so you have a visual that your cooling system is working.

At this point the flow going in the tubing flow is your engine displacement * max RPM and a Reynolds number. Work backwards to the diameter you need to keep ambient pressure, and you don't have anything different than having the drains go through the side of the boat.

Planing boats, with waterline discharge, will actually pull a negative pressure on through transom exhausts while running.

So long as the fiberglass tubing is sized sufficiently to accept the exhaust flow without generating back pressure, a loop in the drain line is sufficient to keep the exhaust out of the boat, as you've no more pressure than having an above the waterline side exhaust nested beside the sink drain. Having been stunk out of boats before with side exhaust and above the water sink drains.... I like having a trap on the drain even on gravity drain galley sinks.

For the lower heads and showers, install a sumpless diaphragm pump and put the pumps valves between the exhaust and your drain lines, on a simple boat I'd run everything to the same sump.

Cheers,

Zach

[waggy]

Thanks for the explanation Zach. I don't know if I'd personally elect to do it if it were my boat, but it's definitely an interesting idea.

[daysgoneby]

What I like about Buehler designs is he tries to kept it simple.

Building Ellemaid 12