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Old 13-11-2013, 13:27   #1
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The school of hard knocks - anti siphon edition

This is what happens when you:
  1. change the trim on your boat so drastically that the anti siphon loop drops a foot
  2. the anti siphon outlet gets clogged
  3. the engine sea cock is left open

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Old 13-11-2013, 15:17   #2
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Re: The school of hard knocks - anti siphon edition

Oh *****, your new engine...how did it fare? You guys are going to be master boat builders by the time you get sailing.
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Old 13-11-2013, 15:35   #3
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Re: The school of hard knocks - anti siphon edition

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Oh *****, your new engine...how did it fare? You guys are going to be master boat builders by the time you get sailing.
We pulled the glow plugs to open the cylinders and shot out all the water/oil mix. Replaced the oil three times and fired it up. It ran okay , so we have our fingers crossed! This weekend I'll run it for a few hours and replace the oil a few more times, maybe add a bit of WD40 to the oil.
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Old 13-11-2013, 16:18   #4
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Re: The school of hard knocks - anti siphon edition

Sorry to hear about your engine problems. Hope all goes well. Run the engine for 10 minutes and check oil for contamination before running very long. Helped a fellow sailor in Ft Lauderdale this spring who had his engine full of water when a water line leaked over nite filling his engine room. We drained the engine and filled the crankcase with diesel, drained and filled again and drained. Then filled with oil and new filters. Started engine and ran for 2 minutes, shut down and check oil for water. Drained again and replaced filters. Finally no water showing in oil and ran engine for 1 hour. Two days later motored 140 miles up the ICW. NO engine problems. I hope you are as successful.
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Old 13-11-2013, 20:42   #5
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Re: The school of hard knocks - anti siphon edition

I hope so too. Good luck and keep us posted. I enjoy your blogs.
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Old 29-11-2013, 18:09   #6
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You can get anti siphon breaks without the valve. They spit a tad of water out and you know you have circulation. Simple no maintenance.
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Old 29-11-2013, 18:49   #7
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You can get anti siphon breaks without the valve. They spit a tad of water out and you know you have circulation. Simple no maintenance.
Run that line out the stern and you will have a little peeing water, like an outboard, peeing stops, stop and investigate. I like it
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Old 28-12-2013, 02:22   #8
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You might want to change the filters also
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Old 28-12-2013, 19:14   #9
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Re: The school of hard knocks - anti siphon edition

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You can get anti siphon breaks without the valve. They spit a tad of water out and you know you have circulation. Simple no maintenance.

Yes, we'll be doing a few things. I'm going to raise the anti siphon loop as high as possible in the engine room. I'm going to use one without a valve plumbed to a spigot which will shoot down the cockpit drain. And I'm installing a ball valve at the top of the loop that can be operated from in the cockpit so that if we shut the motor off while underway we don't have to go open up the engine room to close the seacock.
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Old 28-12-2013, 20:04   #10
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Re: The school of hard knocks - anti siphon edition

Quote:
Originally Posted by Target9000 View Post
We pulled the glow plugs to open the cylinders and shot out all the water/oil mix. Replaced the oil three times and fired it up. It ran okay , so we have our fingers crossed! This weekend I'll run it for a few hours and replace the oil a few more times, maybe add a bit of WD40 to the oil.
Oh please please please don't ever 'oil' anything with WD40. It is basicaly kerosine with cosmoline. When the solvent leaves, the gunky goo is all that remains. It is not oil. Its pretty good for preventing corrosion on bare steel parts waiting for future assembly but it has to solvent washed away before use. Internal to an ingine or injectors it can only gum up the works.
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Old 28-12-2013, 21:00   #11
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Oh please please please don't ever 'oil' anything with WD40. It is basicaly kerosine with cosmoline. When the solvent leaves, the gunky goo is all that remains. It is not oil. Its pretty good for preventing corrosion on bare steel parts waiting for future assembly but it has to solvent washed away before use. Internal to an ingine or injectors it can only gum up the works.
Our mechanic said the same so we didn't use any.
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Old 14-01-2014, 17:30   #12
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Re: The school of hard knocks - anti siphon edition

You can make an anti-siphon from a tee and some insert fittings, then plumb the small line from the top of the tee into a large tee installed in the exhaust line well downstream of the exhaust elbow. This injects a little bit of water into the exhaust while the engine is running and becomes a siphon break when not running engine. The hose barb on mine is 1/4" and the exhaust elbow injector is 1/2" . Seems to work. Currently using yellow brass barbs, should probably change to stainless.
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Old 14-01-2014, 20:48   #13
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Re: The school of hard knocks - anti siphon edition

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You can make an anti-siphon from a tee and some insert fittings, then plumb the small line from the top of the tee into a large tee installed in the exhaust line well downstream of the exhaust elbow. This injects a little bit of water into the exhaust while the engine is running and becomes a siphon break when not running engine. The hose barb on mine is 1/4" and the exhaust elbow injector is 1/2" . Seems to work. Currently using yellow brass barbs, should probably change to stainless.
Be really careful with that yellow brass. It is zinc rich and will turn to dust in salt water, especially hot. I removed all from our boat from the PO. Some crumbled in my hands.
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