Cal 22 roller furling problem

[SeaScrat]

I took apart the roller furling drum and still didn't see any markings. I found that the squeaking noise is more like a grind-squeak that's coming from the metal-on-metal beneath that intersection of retainers, where they rub against that turnbuckle half-hitch-like thing. I'm pretty sure the manufacturer wouldn't allow that kind of abrasive contact to occur, so I am more confident that the extension arm is somehow supposed to be anchored, possibly aimed toward whatever direction the line is being run.

Anyway...new 1/4" furling line installed. My original line was actually 8MM, and no one around here sells that, and West Marine and other places kept telling me the sample I showed them was 5/16", despite my own eyes telling me it was smaller. I ended up buying the 5/16" cheap elsewhere, and there was zero chance of that line being threaded into the drum hole, and I tried everything, short of boring out the hole in the drum. Extra line. The 1/4" stuff went in a bit hard, but made it. With everything cleaned, I now have six wraps on my jib sheet when furled, and it unfurls smoothly every time.

Also replaced the main halyard line, and did my first line stitch to mate the two together, and the line pulled through the mast just fine. However, the small block mounted on the side of the mast is exactly the same size as, if not a hair smaller than, the new 3/8" line. Is that okay, or should I get a bigger block? The mainsail hoisted fine, but there are more points of contact on that block, which I'm guessing means more friction that it seems isn't a good thing for sheets. Thoughts?

[SeaScrat]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

Daaamn! With the gin pole thing, & that kind of ingenuity, you'd make a handy addition to any crew! No joke.
Put that on your sailing resume, & I'm not kidding. It'll land you a lot of invites.

It sounds like you'll have her (the boat) dialed in any time now. And even with things a bit out of tune, you can take her out for a spin, so long as the basics are working.

Me, I wouldn't try soaking a line in flammable solvents, & then snaking them through blocks & sheaves. Sound like a recipe for a Tim Allen, "Home Improvement" type accident. LOL

Good luck, & thanks for the updates!

PS: Yes, a smaller diameter furling line might assist things. And as said before, stripping the cover on many types of lines is an option. As well as doing the same to the core on some, if the lines don't see much load.
Kind of like here Sailboat Line and Running Rigging Splicing Services | APS

I'm very resourceful, great at trouble-shooting, and very good at jury-rigging things in ways most people wouldn't think of, and that most would consider to be permanent fixes. Love tinkering and creating. Maybe that's why I've gotten into sailing; have to be very resourceful when at sea. BTW, there was one more step to the gin pole thing that I waited to long to add/edit to my last post. A small hose clamped around the gin pole that the bottom of the can rested on (screw side facing nozzle spray direction) so the can wouldn't start slipping out from the tape due to the hot temps. It gave it a solid footing.

I also scrapped the gaso-LINE idea - although it would've helped kill the remaining wasps that are nesting in my mast. I used a couple of cans of bug foggers at the base of the mast, and let the fog rise... Every morning, I find more dead wasps on my deck. Mud Dobbers, some call them. They work their way into every crevice...

Thanks for the link, Uncivilized.

Fair winds...

[SeaScrat]

I was still getting a few unwanted jams because the line was always spooling towards the top of the drum, so I always had my eyes peeled and mind opened for parts that might do a better job. The photos show the current setup that works great. Time will tell if that 3-hole "guitar pick" plate (which was the key) I bent to create a better alignment for that eyelet will remain strong or eventually twist.

I keep thinking that line would be better aligned if I ran it through the fairleads down the port side. But, the problem with that is, the only cam cleat near the cockpit is on the side of the cabin, and trying to work that line while reaching starboard to work the jib sheet was very difficult (I did try it with the old setup), plus the extreme angle created a lot of friction on that cleat's fairlead and it kept forcing the line to lock into the jaws unexpectedly.

[SeaScrat]

Amazing how sometimes the obvious can escape a person. I believe that in order to get better alignment on the starboard side, all I need to do is unfurl the jib and drum line, then refurl the jib in the opposite direction, which will then make the drum line feed in/out from the port side so I get a straighter path to the fairleads on the starboard side, eliminating that awkward friction angle from the spool out to that block. Then, I could go to the fairlead and bypass the spring block which I feel produces more drag anyway. Due to that extreme angle, the line seems to be riding on the side of the block casing and digging in, rather than smoothly rolling on the nylon wheel.

Is it that simple, or am I missing something that would prevent the system from working that way? And if the jib has been being furled in the same direction for the past five years, do you think changing the direction is going to stress the material or cause quicker wear?

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by SeaScrat

Amazing how sometimes the obvious can escape a person. I believe that in order to get better alignment on the starboard side, all I need to do is unfurl the jib and drum line, then refurl the jib in the opposite direction, which will then make the drum line feed in/out from the port side so I get a straighter path to the fairleads on the starboard side, eliminating that awkward friction angle from the spool out to that block. Then, I could go to the fairlead and bypass the spring block which I feel produces more drag anyway. Due to that extreme angle, the line seems to be riding on the side of the block casing and digging in, rather than smoothly rolling on the nylon wheel.

Is it that simple, or am I missing something that would prevent the system from working that way? And if the jib has been being furled in the same direction for the past five years, do you think changing the direction is going to stress the material or cause quicker wear?

The obvious thing: if your sail has a UV protection strip on one side only, you have to roll the sail in the way that has the UV strip facing OUT when the sail is furled. If that's the case, you can't reverse the winding direction.

From the latest photo, it seems that you still have a lot of latitude for making a straighter path with less friction.

[SeaScrat]

Originally Posted by Lake-Effect

The obvious thing: if your sail has a UV protection strip on one side only, you have to roll the sail in the way that has the UV strip facing OUT when the sail is furled. If that's the case, you can't reverse the winding direction.

From the latest photo, it seems that you still have a lot of latitude for making a straighter path with less friction.

Thanks, L-E. The UV thing never would've occurred to me. Is there an easy way of determining if only one side is protected? e.g. Is one side shinier than the other? I don't recall seeing anything on the sail indicating a UV side. Then, again, I wasn't really looking for it.

What changes would you make to my current system to create a more frictionless path? Are you hinting to run the line through that fairlead instead of the block?

BTW, is it common for lines and sheets to be rubbing against wood trim and the sides of the cabin or the topdeck or over the companionway hatch? I can't find a good way to run the main sheet from the starboard side of the mast to the cam cleat or gunwale-mounted winch. The main sheet comes out on the lower starboard side of the mast, and no matter how I run it (to that block amidships or the fairleads or right to a cam cleat) it rubs on things and doesn't seem to have a good line to the winch.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by SeaScrat

Is there an easy way of determining if only one side is [UV] protected? e.g. Is one side shinier than the other? I don't recall seeing anything on the sail indicating a UV side.

The UV protection is usually a strip of extra material maybe 4 to 6" wide, sewn along just one side of the sail's leech and foot edge. Often it's white; on ours it's a fetching Pacific Blue .

What changes would you make to my current system to create a more frictionless path? Are you hinting to run the line through that fairlead instead of the block?

Wouldn't hurt to try. The first block or guide doesn't have to be nailed to the deck centerline. Anything that guides the line nicely onto the drum and lowers path friction is worth a try.

BTW, is it common for lines and sheets to be rubbing against wood trim and the sides of the cabin or the topdeck or over the companionway hatch? I can't find a good way to run the main sheet from the starboard side of the mast to the cam cleat or gunwale-mounted winch. The main sheet comes out on the lower starboard side of the mast, and no matter how I run it (to that block amidships or the fairleads or right to a cam cleat) it rubs on things and doesn't seem to have a good line to the winch.

Any unnecessary rubbing is to be avoided. It's friction and it mars the boat. You can usually create a good path using fairleads, deck blocks, or other blocks secured to hardware. Our main halyard runs through a small pivoting block at the bottom of the mast, then to a deck block that lines it up in the small gap between the hatch slide and the cabin handrail, then to a fairlead and cleat. (we don't have winches)

Where rubbing is unavoidable you can put in stainless steel plates, bars or guides to keep the line off the boat.

Our furling line has been carving the edge of the starboard coaming when we furl the sail; I've finally found a fairlead location that stops that from happening. Only took 8 years...

[SeaScrat]

Not sure how I missed the fairly large words "Sun Shield" all these weeks, but it's there, only on one side. So, I guess that's that. Ran the line back through the deck-mounted fairlead. Works fine. Coils satisfactory.

Yes, I am definitely going to have to do something about all the lines and rubbing. I noticed a subtle but definite groove where the furling line has been rubbing against nearly the entire length of the lower side of the cabin. Random 316 plates everywhere might not look nice, and I don't want to drill holes everywhere. Maybe use a 6' length of 3/4" PVC cut lengthwise to create a channel/skid plate, file/taper the ends, then use some pieces of marine butyl tape every six inches to secure it to the base of the cabin. Or maybe use a length of white vinyl siding trim, such as J-channel. At least I know it won't degrade significantly under the sun.

Have to explore some options.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by SeaScrat

Yes, I am definitely going to have to do something about all the lines and rubbing. I noticed a subtle but definite groove where the furling line has been rubbing against nearly the entire length of the lower side of the cabin. Random 316 plates everywhere might not look nice, and I don't want to drill holes everywhere.

One or two strategically placed fairleads might do the trick.