http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/ en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:27:17 GMT vBulletin 60 http://cdn.cruisersforum.com/forums/../ugala/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/ http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/paging-forum-electrical-geniuses-you-know-who-you-are-33251.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:46:51 GMT I got some great advice from some of you about the electrical system on my boat, which has now raised some new questions. Our boat has two... I got some great advice from some of you about the electrical system on my boat, which has now raised some new questions.

Our boat has two starting batteries and two banks of service batteries (220ah x 24 volts each) for a total of four separate battery banks, two twelve volt (engine and generator start respectively) and two 24 volt.

The two service banks are separated into one house bank, which services lighting, water system, electronics, refrigeration, and domestic consumers, and one service bank which services four electric winches, bowthruster, and windlass.


The problem (one of a number of problems, but the problem this post is about) is that the house bank is too small to maintain the domestic systems for very long at anchor. The two service banks are not used efficiently -- the house bank is drawn down at anchor; the service bank is only used momentarily when sailing, docking, or anchoring. So I end up with a flat house bank even while I still have a fully charged service bank, and I have to run the generator to charge even though half of my service batteries are still up.

Someone here suggested combining the two banks. I'm going to try that -- first by connecting with jumper cables.

Someone else told me to be careful -- if the banks are connected when I run the engine, I can blow either the alternator or the diode splitter.

Question #1: How is that, that having the two banks connected will blow an alternator, which is connected to both of them anyway, and/or the diode splitter? Is it true?

Question #2: What do you guys think of the idea of putting in a combiner switch, so that the two banks are combined only at anchor. When I get ready to weigh anchor, I will disconnect them. That would eliminate any risk of voltage shocks from heavy consumer like the thruster affecting the electronics.

I think that the reason the banks are separate in the first place, is those voltage shocks. If so, then it's an awfully inefficient way to do it -- tail wagging the dog.

I know another way to do it would be to combine the two banks permanently, then install yet another bank-- say, two 110ah x 12v batteries to get 110ah x 24v -- in the bow to deal with the thruster and windlass. Leaving the winches on the main, now combined, 440ah x 24v bank.

There is no reason in principle not to do that -- there is space in the bow and so forth, and the boat is heavy enough (44,000 pounds displacement) that a couple extra batteries in the bow is not going to be a big deal in terms of trim. But if I can solve the problem with something like the above, I think it would be simpler, cheaper, and more elegant, than just throwing more batteries at the problem.



What do you guys think? ]]> Dockhead http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/paging-forum-electrical-geniuses-you-know-who-you-are-33251.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/charging-system-and-battery-banks-33157.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 13:51:03 GMT Hello to all, I have some questions about charging systems and battery banks, What I would like to setup is a system with Wind... Hello to all,

I have some questions about charging systems and battery banks,


What I would like to setup is a system with Wind generator,Solor,shore power charger, genset and the Alterator.

What I need help with is understanding how to wire them all. From what I understand so far is that a charge controler is used to control what battery needs charge and cuts off the charge to battery's that do not need and charge. But what is used to control the source where the charge is coming from? Is there a controler that changes where to charge comes from?


also can someone explain how it is all wired? along with what parts are needed to do this job right?

I would like to have a bank with 4 House batterys and one starting battery along with one battery for the windless.


Thank you for any help offered.

Dutch ]]> johnar http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/charging-system-and-battery-banks-33157.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/alternator-installation-wiring-connections-33144.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 03:48:22 GMT I'm changing from a self-exciting alternator (that does not connect to an idiot light) to a Sev Marchal with D-, B+, 61+, and DF connection points. The B+ is connected to battery positive, D- is connected to battery ground, and I'm having trouble figuring out how to connect the rest to activate the field and get the alternator working.

Is a 2 or 3 watt bulb required? If so, is it wired to the DF or 61+ connection on a ignition switched positive wire? Do both the DF and 61+ have to be wired in?

Thanks for any advice. ]]> jonww http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/alternator-installation-wiring-connections-33144.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/alternator-regulator-question-33141.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:04:39 GMT Hello All, My darlins BMW required a new alternator because of noisy bearings. I was lucky enough to get the old one back and able to replace the... Hello All,
My darlins BMW required a new alternator because of noisy bearings. I was lucky enough to get the old one back and able to replace the bearings myself......so now I have a 140amp Bosch alternator I'd like to replace my 60 amp with.

My question relates to regulators/charge controllers, along the line of Balmar & Ample Power and alternator combination's

Could anyone share some past experience with a somewhat similar combination.

Thanks for your thoughts

Cheers ]]> Caribsailors http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/alternator-regulator-question-33141.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/inverter-connection-33130.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 20:23:45 GMT good day all i have a 2000watt invertor setup standalone in my boat. i would like to wire it into the existing 110 system but want to make sure its... good day all
i have a 2000watt invertor setup standalone in my boat. i would like to wire it into the existing 110 system but want to make sure its protected. i know i can go out spend money and buy a dedicated transfer switch but was wondering i have a 30 amp dual pole breaker already can i not use this as an on/off switch. just want to make sure that if the invertor was to accidently be turned on while the shore power was connected that nothing would get fried. thanks ]]> davevancat http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/inverter-connection-33130.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/why-do-i-have-an-isolator-with-only-one-battery-bank-33121.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:46:35 GMT Hi all,
I have been having some issues with my motor not charging the batteries. I don't have a separate starter and house bank, the engine starts from the house batteries. The back up is the generator which has a separate start battery and can charge the house bank. Anyway, I didn't design it, but its what is there.

I have a thing labelled "Battery Isolator" from Sure Power Industries. It has an alternator terminal, a positive terminal and a negative terminal. The 'isolator' initially failed because the terminals were so corroded it was not passing charge to the batteries. I cleaned this all up and we were getting good charging current to the battery - 30 amps. Then we weren't again. On inspection the positive wire from this isolator had cooked and the first inch or so of it was burnt. The wire is fairly thin, maybe about 1mm in diameter of twisted copper. This device itself looks pretty old and nasty.
I removed the isolator from the circuit, attaching the alternator cable direct to the battery cable. I get a charging current.

My issue is that at full speed the alternator produces a fairly high current, did this isolator do something to protect the batteries in some way? I am a bit worried that without this 'isolator' that I may be overcharging, or was its job to prevent current leakage back through the alternator?

Any insight would be appreciated.

cheers
JMB ]]> tackdriver http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/why-do-i-have-an-isolator-with-only-one-battery-bank-33121.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/rebuilding-my-electrical-system-need-advice-33110.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 04:11:21 GMT Planning a 2-3 yr cruise in the tropics next year on my '92 Beneteau First 38s5. Redoing the electrical system is one of big jobs I am tackling right now and would love some feedback on my proposed setup before I pull the plug! ;-)

Here is the proposed wiring diagram



Planning to use the Victron 602 battery monitor and Xantrex echo charger to charge my starter battery since i read good things about it on this board.

I am planning to use 100Ah per day and looking to get 90% of the charge from a 200W solar bank and a wind generator. Am I being realistic?

Initially planning to use the standard 55A alternator and internal regulator that comes with my volvo 2003T. I have been told the max alternator I can put on the engine is 70A because of the 3/8 belt and the fact the belt also rotates the centrifugal coolant pump. Would love to get some validation on this. It is worth getting the 70A high output alternator with external regulator?

I am adding switch 2 to connect the starter & house batteries together if I need to use the house to start the engine. Will this damage the echo charge?

Still deciding between Gelcell and AGMs.. Any suggestions? ]]> britsailor http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/rebuilding-my-electrical-system-need-advice-33110.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/auto-pilot-failure-33102.html Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:15:48 GMT I have a Navman Linear drive auto pilot. On my recent trip from South Carolina to St Mary's Inlet the unit became inoperable. I am getting a "Drive Error" messsage. It comes on and works for a few seconds but as soon as it need to make a substantial rudder movement it trip with the error code.

I do not see anything obivous wrong, no loose wires or leaking fluid. Any thoughts on how to diagnose the problem.

Cam ]]> Double-Wide http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/auto-pilot-failure-33102.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/what-is-the-best-way-to-charge-two-battery-banks-33086.html Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:23:33 GMT Hi.
Installing the new engine and battery's and alternator and....

I have 2 battery banks.
1 is 600 ah of agms for the house. Charged via the balmar 120 amp alternator and 2 100w solar panels.
2nd is the start battery, currently is a optima spiral agm.
I need the best way to combine them for charging, but to isolate them otherwise.
I do not have a AB batt switch and do not want one. I have 2 separate on off bss battery switches.

So what is the best way.
Either the BSS ACR Blue Sea Systems #7620 Solenoid ML Series 350A 12V ACR
or the balmar duo charge Balmar Digital Duo Charge something else.
I do not want to use a isolation diode.
Your thoughts are appreciated.

Bob ]]> bobfnbw http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/what-is-the-best-way-to-charge-two-battery-banks-33086.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/heart-battery-monitor-problem-33042.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 03:13:17 GMT I have a Link 10 system that is giving really strange readings all of a sudden. Shows 51.1 volts from teh house bank. Amp Hours counter just counts... I have a Link 10 system that is giving really strange readings all of a sudden. Shows 51.1 volts from teh house bank. Amp Hours counter just counts up to high numbers (positive) at a rate I know my solar panels are not putting out.

The boat has been disconnected from shore power for 5 months now. Just have solar keeping the bank topped off. Main dist panel meter shows 13.1 volts and all 12 volt accessories seem to work fine.

The manual has been little help. They say that sometimes the "processor gets scrambled" and disconnecting the power for a few minutes may reset things. Not real easy access to the wiring behind the unit.

The solar charging unit indicates all is normal. It's putting only about 1.5 amps into the bank as it's full, the rest is being diverted to the resistance load.

What should I check for here?

:confused: ]]> markpj23 http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/heart-battery-monitor-problem-33042.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/connector-for-3-4-wires-33019.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 18:17:43 GMT What is the ABYC-approved method for connecting 3 or 4 stranded wires? I am familiar with the requirement to use ring terminals and butt connectors... What is the ABYC-approved method for connecting 3 or 4 stranded wires? I am familiar with the requirement to use ring terminals and butt connectors with heat shrink tubing on stranded boat wire. But what connector do you use for 3 or more wires? For example, I will be running a boat cable for a new AC circuit into a junction box that will then connect two different loads. In a home, I'd use wire nuts to connect the three hots, three neutrals and the four grounds in a metal box. I know wire nuts aren't allowed and don't work on stranded wire. Do you use crimping end caps for these connections on a boat or is there a preferred connector?

- Rick ]]> R_C http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/connector-for-3-4-wires-33019.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/reverse-polarity-indicating-led-path-to-earth-ground-33011.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 12:39:25 GMT Hi, I would like to connect 2 indicating leds to my polarity switch. a green one with wires from the live to the earth and a red one with wires... Hi, I would like to connect 2 indicating leds to my polarity switch.
a green one with wires from the live to the earth
and a red one with wires from the neutral to earth

so that the green is on when the polarity is ok and the red one is on when the polarity is reversed (meaning the neutral is live).

To do this I have bought two 240 volt leds, 1 red and 1 green

I wired it up and it works perfectly.....

but now i read that I may have created a path for stray currents by not putting two 8000 Ohm resistors in the circuits. (8000 Ohm for 240v instead of 25000 Ohm which is for 120v)

Here is a quote from our forums....
"RPI’s are wired in series with a (minimum) 25,000 Ohm resistor (unless they utilize a momentary contact “push-to-test” button), to prevent a path for stray currents via the grounded Neutral wire."

So my question is... Why do I have to do this with an led running in an A/C circuit. It must have a resistor built in so that it can handle the 240 volts. If it has a resistor built in then it must be big enough to stop the stray currents by the fact that it is allowing a 2v (i guess) led to run in a 240v circuit.

Does this all sound reasonable or am I missing something? ]]> john Fussell http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/reverse-polarity-indicating-led-path-to-earth-ground-33011.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/alternator-regulators-opinions-32986.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 14:58:32 GMT I've read the archives and the literature. I currently have a Balmar 120 amp alternator and MaxCharge 612 on my main engine. I've built a 12 V DC generator with a 150 Amp Zena welding generator and am looking for the best regulator to put on it. I have a 2 nd MaxCharge I could use, but I'm not entirerly happy with the performance of the one on my main engine. It seems to taper off charging early and the max amps I've seen out of it are around 75. ( I don't need an explanation of why this might be. Been though it all with Balmar).
If you have the best Reg., Please tell me why it's the best. I'd like something with programable bulk & Absorb. times & voltages, Batt temp compesation and hopefully Alt temp monitoring.
TIA
Dwain ]]> dlentz http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/alternator-regulators-opinions-32986.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/equalizing-batteries-32982.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:53:17 GMT I want to do my first "equalization" of my battery system and am getting conflicting information from "experts" on how to do it. I'm running a Link 2000 so getting it started shouldn't be a problem but I'm looking for the prep stages to do before I start it.

One "expert" says to just hit the button on the Link 2000 and let her rip. Another says to unscrew all the battery caps(running a bank of 6-6 volt golf cart batteries) after taking off the lid to the battery box and making sure the cabin has good ventilation.

We've got 3 cats living on board. Do I need to get them off the boat or am I safe to just put them in a forward cabin away from the batteries and make sure I have a fan blowing fresh air into the cabin where the batteries are?

Any idea how long it will take to "equalize? It will be the first time I have done it since I installed them in April of 2008. Owning a boat has a steep learning curve. ]]> mestrezat http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/equalizing-batteries-32982.html http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/another-battery-question-32961.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 18:48:39 GMT I think one of our battery banks is giving up the ghost. So my question is can I have one bank,(two batteries), that is 6 volt wired in series, and... I think one of our battery banks is giving up the ghost. So my question is can I have one bank,(two batteries), that is 6 volt wired in series, and one bank,(two batteries), group 27s. I really don't want to replace batteries that are still doing the job ]]> JusDreaming http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/another-battery-question-32961.html