<![CDATA[Cruisers & Sailing Forums - Construction, Maintenance & Refit]]> https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/ en Tue, 09 Jun 2026 03:00:37 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[Cruisers & Sailing Forums - Construction, Maintenance & Refit]]> https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/ Transom Actuator https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/transom-actuator-300616.html Mon, 08 Jun 2026 21:53:14 GMT Hi.

First post here. I have a'13 Oceanis 41. I feel like a victim of the poor drainage in the area where the transom actuator lives. My actuator stopped actuating. The MSRP for a new unit was $ 1,800. I wasn't aware how the cable interfaced with the actuator so I accidentally destroyed the cable plug. In the US, add another $800 for the box and all of the connectors. I tried to find a replacement, but that's basically a needle in a haystack. I therefore took the plunge and defied the manufacturer's instructions, opening up the unit. Inside, there was a fair amount of corrosion. The motor can only be serviced by removing it completely from the aluminum housing. The motor is easily mobilized by removing two torx bolts. The real problem comes in with the two-spade connectors. These connectors can be pushed off easily, but the issue is reinstallation. They install from the back to the front. It took a custom tool and lots of patience, but I got both back on. Greased everything as I went and was able to save the gasket for the final sealing of the body. The other problem was finding another cable (with the correct plug). Thanks to YachtSupply 24, I was able to source a brand new plug from LINAK for only $90. Sounds like a lot and it is ($31 for the plug, shipping, and tariffs), but a heck of a lot cheaper than $800. Anyway, after installation of the new cable and the actuator back in the boat, it works like a charm. I don't usually take the time to share projects, but this really involved quite a bit of research and lots of time and effort.

Here are some pics:
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]]> Culpyy https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/transom-actuator-300616.html Heated Post Curing https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/heated-post-curing-300581.html Sun, 07 Jun 2026 13:48:59 GMT My Stiletto 27 was built with an aerospace prepreg that required a 300F post cure. I've used chemical epoxy linings on chemical equipment that required a heated post cure, typically ~ 200F. Recently, I coated some parts with an industrial polyurethane paint that could room temperature cure, but properties were said to be improved by a ~ 4 hours post cure at 170F; I don't think it was any different than typical marine 2-part polyurethanes. The result was bullet-hard. I've been known to push conventional epoxies with a slight post cure, when the shop was cool and I wanted to "get on with it."


Advantages include increased cross linking, improved chemical resistance, strength and harness, and reduced side reactions with air and water vapor. You do need to watch the temperature; overheating can cause damamge. Often, the tech sheets provide guidance.


Does anyone post cure 2-part products? Small things that can go in an oven? Tarping a part of boat and just heating a little? ]]> thinwater https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/heated-post-curing-300581.html Cape Town New Construction Independent Surveyor https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/cape-town-new-construction-independent-surveyor-300579.html Sun, 07 Jun 2026 05:20:03 GMT Hello everyone, We are in the planning stages of a new catamaran build with a yard in Cape Town. This is our first build and we would like to... Hello everyone,

We are in the planning stages of a new catamaran build with a yard in Cape Town. This is our first build and we would like to secure the services of a third-party surveyor in Cape Town to support us during construction.

Can anyone please offer advice or a referral on finding a marine surveyor to work with us?

Thank you in advance! ]]> FarmToSea https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/cape-town-new-construction-independent-surveyor-300579.html <![CDATA[Cap rail 'sunburn' using Halcyon?]]> https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/cap-rail-sunburn-using-halcyon-300568.html Sat, 06 Jun 2026 17:11:31 GMT Hello all, I know that there are many threads on varnish issues, so here is one more. I am using the TotalBoat Halcyon water-based varnish on my... Hello all,
I know that there are many threads on varnish issues, so here is one more. I am using the TotalBoat Halcyon water-based varnish on my teak cap rail. It has developed light spots that I call sunburn, but I'm guessing is not the case. I am looking for advice on what is causing this and what the cure might be. I already assume that I will need to strip/sand/remove the Halcyon to reveal the bare wood. But not sure what is causing this so would appreciate ideas on how to proceed so as not to have this issue repeat. An AI bot search suggests that it's water trapped under the varnish, but I am not sure what has caused this.

Any thoughts/suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

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]]> Caz https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/cap-rail-sunburn-using-halcyon-300568.html What paint for my plinth / sail control table? https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/what-paint-for-my-plinth-sail-control-table-300562.html Sat, 06 Jun 2026 00:02:37 GMT finally, I don’t need a custom color. I just need a nice bright white.

But I also want it to look like plastic like the rest of the white inside the boat. I had sprayed the inside of the boat with 2 part linear polyurethane.

But my days of dealing with chemicals are very much over. Especially indoors where I live.

I need to use a paint that will look like a beautifully molded, glossy piece of plastic when finished, but also is a one part paint.

Any ideas what I should use?

There shouldn’t be too much abuse on it. It is basically a box that all of the sail controls are mounted to.

So it will have lines coming off winches and going into little stuffing cubby holes. But these don’t create any abrasion really. Just standard loose tails.

What paint would you use for something like that on the interior? It is not exposed to UV or any weather. This is indoors. ]]> Chotu https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/what-paint-for-my-plinth-sail-control-table-300562.html Vinyl window molding source for Cataline 22 windows? https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/vinyl-window-molding-source-for-cataline-22-windows-300553.html Fri, 05 Jun 2026 14:09:24 GMT All, I have a 68 Venture 21 that appears to have the same exact windows as the Catalina 22. I had the windows replaced with lexan but I am unable... All,

I have a 68 Venture 21 that appears to have the same exact windows as the Catalina 22. I had the windows replaced with lexan but I am unable to source the extruded vinyl window molding for the frame inside the boat outside of Catalina direct. The issue is they only seem to sell it in a window kit. I only really need the molding (which seems does not really do anything other than occupy the space). Anyone know where I can get it?

Here is a link to the kit I am looking at:

https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-...it-c-22-cp-25/

Thanks ]]> fsuklee https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/vinyl-window-molding-source-for-cataline-22-windows-300553.html Problems with 3m Perfect It Machine Polish https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/problems-with-3m-perfect-it-machine-polish-300540.html Thu, 04 Jun 2026 20:35:00 GMT I am in the process of performing Alexseal paint correction utilizing 3m Perfect It Rubbing Compound and 3m Perfect It Machine Polish as reccomended... I am in the process of performing Alexseal paint correction utilizing 3m Perfect It Rubbing Compound and 3m Perfect It Machine Polish as reccomended by the paint manufacturer. Paint wet sanded to 3000 grit paper. Utilizing high quality foam pads can get the paint to look great using just the rubbing compound, however when I use the polish for what should be the final step the end result
has significantly less gloss than just using the rubbing compound alone almost looks cloudy. Wonder if anyone has thoughts about whatmay be happening as I am thinking about just skipping the polishing step and just going to the final protective coat wax or ceramic. ]]> cburger https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/problems-with-3m-perfect-it-machine-polish-300540.html Keel Bolt Torque Values https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/keel-bolt-torque-values-300536.html Thu, 04 Jun 2026 14:14:36 GMT I'm replacing 2 keel bolt backing plates. The keel bolts are actually 3/4" 316 stainless threaded rod imbedded in a lead keel, and secured with heavy profile 316 nuts.


I have a torque value range from the manufacturer for actual stainless bolts, not the rods and nuts I have, but presume the different between the two is negligible. I believe the values are for dry threads, but intend to use an antiseize, which is not a lube per se, but may impact where I land in the range.


The range for 3/4" is 116 ft/lbs to 231 ft/lbs


This is a very large range, IMO, and I don't understand why when most speced torques are pretty darn exact. So whats my target torque value here? Low, high, middle?



It may help to know there are only 5 keel bolts for the 2400 lb keel, all centerline, the two 3/4" that I'm working on are on the ends, and the 3 in the center are 1-1/4" rod (require a 2" deep socket). The plates are also heavy and oversized, small ones get 7" x 4" x 5/8" with a 2-3/8" x 3/16" Fender washer stacked on top. ]]> jigray3 https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/keel-bolt-torque-values-300536.html Screeching Hatch https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/screeching-hatch-300498.html Mon, 01 Jun 2026 19:48:07 GMT I have a 1991 Morgan 44 center cockpit sailboat. We have developed a very odd problem. I’m wondering if anybody has had this experience. When I slide... I have a 1991 Morgan 44 center cockpit sailboat. We have developed a very odd problem. I’m wondering if anybody has had this experience. When I slide open the companionway hatch there is a bloodcurdling, nails on the chalkboard screeching sound almost every time. I sprayed it with a silicone spray and it stops for a little while, but then always comes back. Anybody ever had this experience and were you able to solve it? ]]> scottmc59 https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/screeching-hatch-300498.html Best Hard Bottom Paint For FL Gulf Coast https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/best-hard-bottom-paint-for-fl-gulf-coast-300484.html Sun, 31 May 2026 11:57:59 GMT For years I had good success with Pettit Trinidad on my old boat; I'd get three years per bottom job. My new boat came with an Interlux ablative that practically comes off with harsh language let alone a scrub of the water line. I am going to haul soon and take it all off and go back to a hard paint.

Sorry if this thread is duplicated elsewhere but does anyone think there is a better hard paint for warm FL waters than Pettit Trinidad? A secondary consideration is that I might want to store the boat on the hard for a few months during storm season. I assume I'll need to scuff up the Trinidad before relaunch. I appreciate any relevant thoughts. ]]> EmeraldCoastSailor https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/best-hard-bottom-paint-for-fl-gulf-coast-300484.html R-12 conversion? https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/r-12-conversion-300474.html Sat, 30 May 2026 20:53:21 GMT My 1986 boat (that I bought in 2012) came with a Frigoboat refrigerator that worked well for years, but now not so much. The compressor runs, so I'm kind of thinking it's low on refrigerant. Unfortunately, the sticker on the compressor specifies R-12 refrigerant, so that's a problem.

Has anyone here attempted a conversion to R-134A? Did that work out, or should I just forget about it? Or is there another fault I might be overlooking? ]]> sandy stone https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/r-12-conversion-300474.html Integral fiberglass diesel tank repair https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/integral-fiberglass-diesel-tank-repair-300471.html Sat, 30 May 2026 15:48:51 GMT I have a Bruce Roberts fiberglass boat build that has the diesel tank integral to the hull. Last year I noticed a very small amount of diesel... I have a Bruce Roberts fiberglass boat build that has the diesel tank integral to the hull. Last year I noticed a very small amount of diesel seeping from the bottom surface of the keel, just enough to form a sheen on the keel but not really dripping. I assume the resin of the layup has been compromised a bit and diesel is slowly making its way thru the composite structure to the outside. There are no obvious cracks or delamination, but one small area the size of a dime is the suspect area as seen from the outside.


I have pumped all the diesel out and cleaned the bottom of the tank with acetone to get rid of most of the fuel residue. However the tank has some hammerhead sections at the bottom fore and aft of the main well. The issue is that the tank is very skinny and deep (6ft plus) and makes it impossible to reach the bottom by hand, only with long handled tools. So I have to work remotely to scrub or clean anything, and no sanding or grinding is possible.


Is it possible to pour in some resin or glass fiber reinforced resin to coat the bottom surface of the inner tank wall at the bottom and seal this up? I should be able to get the surface mostly clean with a number of methods and get it dried so that whatever solution I come up with, should allow the repair compound to adhere to the surface.


I spoke with the company who makes KBS tank sealer: https://kbs-coatings.com/kbs-tank-sealer-system and they say it can be used on fiberglass but would be best if the entire inside surface could be covered, not just the bottom surface as I will have to do on this sailboat.


The other option I have heard of is to get vinylester resin and reinforce with some chopped glass and spread on the bottom surface of the tank to try and seal up the weak area that is compromised.


Any other ideas guys? I have done a search all thru Cruisers Forum with minimal advice other than to decommission or to install a bladder - both are not really feasible in my application. ]]> OutsideTheLines https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/integral-fiberglass-diesel-tank-repair-300471.html Steel Hull Sailboat - Chainplates https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/steel-hull-sailboat-chainplates-300468.html Sat, 30 May 2026 01:59:04 GMT Is there a design standard that avoids corrosion where carbon steel chainplate meets stainless standing rigging toggle? (see attached... Is there a design standard that avoids corrosion where carbon steel chainplate meets stainless standing rigging toggle? (see attached pictures)Attachment 310954

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]]> BoatSteelKeel https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/steel-hull-sailboat-chainplates-300468.html Steel centerboard and rust prevention https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/steel-centerboard-and-rust-prevention-300461.html Fri, 29 May 2026 15:07:53 GMT Hi all, I build a small wooden sail and oar boat with an aluminum swing centerboard. After capsizing in high wind (user error more than... Hi all,


I build a small wooden sail and oar boat with an aluminum swing centerboard. After capsizing in high wind (user error more than anything) I had a steel centerboard made to improve my righting moment. Unfortunately, it is not stainless. I plan to paint it with rust protection paint. The boat will not live in the water, but in my garage. I will be able to inspect it and repaint the lower portion of it with some frequency. However, I am still worried about it rusting specifically at the pivot point of the centerboard pin. This area will be much less accessible. So, rather than having a stainless centerboard made ($$$$), I'm curious how others might approach this?


These are thoughts I've had:
1. daily sprays of WD40 rust inhibitor when on the water and after removal from the water. It's cheap, but requires remembering and not sure how effective it would be if I was in salt water for a 2 week dinghy cruise?


2. Place a plastic collar around the pivot pin in the hopes it won't remove the protective paint on the inside of the pivot hole of the centerboard. Skeptical this would work at all. Also if the collar breaks, potential bits could jam up functioning?


3. Try and have a machine shop press fit a copper ring to the inside of the pivot hole. Downside is $$$ and also galvanic corrosion.


Would love any thoughts others have.


Thanks!


-Peter ]]> Peter34 https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/steel-centerboard-and-rust-prevention-300461.html Sealing/Bedding Wooden Toe Rail? https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/sealing-bedding-wooden-toe-rail-300432.html Thu, 28 May 2026 02:02:52 GMT My boat has a teak toe rail that sits on a rubber gasket/rub rail on the deck-to-hull joint. The wood is in decent condition but there is an area of... My boat has a teak toe rail that sits on a rubber gasket/rub rail on the deck-to-hull joint. The wood is in decent condition but there is an area of heavy cracking etc. I’m finding as the season goes on, water will get on the deck and instead of making it to the stern of the boat where there are holes in the rail to drain, water is running underneath the toe rail in places and leaving stains down the gelcoat to the waterline. I do not want to under take removing the toe rail and rebedding. I feel like if the wood comes off I may jot get it back on.

I was thinking I could run a bead of some type of elsstomatic caulk on the inside of the toe rail to deck to seal it. What’s the best way to tackle this?
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]]> Cdn_bacon https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/sealing-bedding-wooden-toe-rail-300432.html