<![CDATA[Cruisers & Sailing Forums - Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting]]> https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/ en Wed, 10 Jun 2026 19:58:29 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[Cruisers & Sailing Forums - Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting]]> https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/ Removing a furler on a legacy Zspars mast https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/removing-a-furler-on-a-legacy-zspars-mast-300623.html Tue, 09 Jun 2026 16:46:37 GMT Hi all,

I have to remove the furler mechanism on a legacy Z-spars mast. I'm looking for anyone with prior experience on this type of mechanism to advise on what I need to do to remove it.

The manufacturer claims that they do not have any documents in their archive, nor do they have any spares. The spares I can understand, but not maintaining an archive seems criminal for a company that manufactures marine systems that can last for decades. Anyway, that's a side rant. What I really need to know is how to get it out. Here's what I know so far and see pics.

The mfr states that the furler cylinder is connected to the gooseneck but can't recall how.

The top of the furler rod is free. Once the furler drum is free to move, the entire unit should slide out through the bottom of the mast.

There are two types of fasteners visible on the gooseneck:
  1. two hex head bolts along the centreline of the gooseneck base. but these are so short and do not seem to penetrate the mast profile. I think they just thread into a backing plate that is behind the sailtrack slot. I removed them completely anyway and the furler drum will still not budge.
  2. 6 rivets, 3 per side. Cannot tell for sure, but these seem to be the only possible way that the gooseneck base is connected to the furler drum. Before I drill these out however, I'm looking for confirmation from anyone that may have worked on this particular equipment.
Also, if anyone happens to have any documentation on this type of mast and its fittings, that would be awesome, since Z-spars has been of no use in getting same.

I've always rec'd great feedback from this forum in the past and have hopes I can get some useful tips and confirmation on how to proceed this time.

For anyone wondering why I'm doing this, the furling of the main is no longer easy to do and I want to inspect and probably change the bearings before I get into some real trouble on a windy day when I need to reef or retract the main.
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]]> raahell https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/removing-a-furler-on-a-legacy-zspars-mast-300623.html Splicing a Mast in Florida https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/splicing-a-mast-in-florida-300615.html Mon, 08 Jun 2026 21:41:37 GMT I had to cut my aluminum mast to have it shipped. There was no other way. I know what I have to do, but struggling to find someone to do it. I'll rivet it myself if I have to, but bending the inner sleeve needs a proper bender robot.
Does anyone know someone who does this type of thing? It's not a big $ fix, but hard to find the person willing to take it on (plenty of metal workers all around but each of them have declined because it's a small job).
Thanks! ]]> ooberman https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/splicing-a-mast-in-florida-300615.html UV protection for roller furling headsail? https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/uv-protection-for-roller-furling-headsail-300611.html Mon, 08 Jun 2026 18:44:27 GMT I'm just finishing a SailRite kit for a new genoa on my boat. I've tested the sail, and I like it.

It's time to add some UV protection, but- It sails SO well in nice winds without the extra weight of the protective cover. I run a marine canvas shop & have access to about everything- I'm just having trouble sewing heavy Sunbrella on to my new sail.

The options I'm aware of are-
Sunbrella. It lasts about 10 years, but it is heavier than my sail cloth. I do care about light wind performance.

Lighter weight polyesters, like Odyessy. 3 year warranty, but much lighter.

303 Aerospace Protectant. I don't know how (or if) this might work. It is certainly lighter than the other options.

What am I missing? Any other ideas or input?

Thanks! ]]> kayakerChuck https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/uv-protection-for-roller-furling-headsail-300611.html Help identifying windvane? https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/help-identifying-windvane-300608.html Mon, 08 Jun 2026 15:13:12 GMT Hello folks, I'm looking at a Vancouver 27 for sale that has a 'self steering windvane' in the description, but no extra info. Broker has not answered inquiries.

The photos show definitely a windvane-like apparatus at the rear, but can't identify it. Wondering of someone more knowledgeable can help identify it?



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]]> tach https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/help-identifying-windvane-300608.html Painting older sails? Experiences? https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/painting-older-sails-experiences-300603.html Mon, 08 Jun 2026 12:59:08 GMT Hello fellow cruisers! I just stumbled upon this article: https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/the-case-of-the-painted-jib/... Hello fellow cruisers!

I just stumbled upon this article:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/the-case-of-the-painted-jib/

So I was wondering if any of you have tried this and what results you got!

The context is that I just recently bought a sailboat with an older genoa, and was thinking of what to do to squeeze a bit more life out of it before retiring it. I just spent a 100€ on patching it up, but the sail-wright told me that the fabric is mostly done.

The second thought I had, was that it may be advantageous to do that with my mainsail that still is in pretty good condition, in order to extend it's life a bit. Also the idea of painting something cool on the sails seems nice.

My sails are made of common polyester fabric.


Cheers, G.

PS.: I have spare genoas, but I don't want to use them before I have used up the old one. ]]> Old_Greenhorn https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/painting-older-sails-experiences-300603.html Replacement Facnor Halyard Swivel - Open vs Closed Bearings https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/replacement-facnor-halyard-swivel-open-vs-closed-bearings-300510.html Wed, 03 Jun 2026 00:32:23 GMT I'm replacing the halyard swivel on my headsail furler. The furler was made by Facnor and the swivel failed after 30 years. Facnor was acquired by Wichard Groupe along the way, and to their undying credit a replacement swivel is still available. Amazing, right? My guess is that it's a slightly modified ProFurl part since they are also a part of Wichard, so there's still economy of scale to offer it, and it wasn't cheap at almost $700, but I'm happy to have it.


It arrived today, I'm still kinda shocked to have it in my hands, but it is different than my original swivel. The original had open races with stainless bearings, was fairly lightweight, and spun in my hands with little to no effort. The replacement uses sealed carbon steel bearings in a grease bath like ProFurl, is significantly heavier, and can be rotated with effort, but does not spin freely. Knowing the difference in bearing style I expected some increase in effort, but surprised that it's this much.


My question is to those of you with ProFurl units or anyone with sealed bearings in your halyard swivel, particularly if you made the change from open to sealed or vice versa. Did you find it requires some effort to turn the swivel by hand? Does this loosen up and improve with age? It feels like this will be noticeable when furling or unfurling. Am I right, or does it just get lost in the inefficiencies of the furling system? Pretty sure it's not defective, and just the way it is, but you tell me. ]]> jigray3 https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/replacement-facnor-halyard-swivel-open-vs-closed-bearings-300510.html Harken Flatwinder Gearbox Cover https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/harken-flatwinder-gearbox-cover-300507.html Tue, 02 Jun 2026 20:33:38 GMT This is probably a long -shot, but can anyone tell me how the gearbox cover (2) on a Harken Flatwinder 500 is held in place? Mine is in a ... This is probably a long -shot, but can anyone tell me how the gearbox cover (2) on a Harken Flatwinder 500 is held in place? Mine is in a difficult-to-access area, and I need to get it off as the screw (7) that the transmission shaft (4) in place seems to have come loose. It feels like there's a edge at the top of it, but I have been unable to pry it down. I've also tried rotating it with a channel-lock, but it doesn't budge.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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]]> geoffschultz https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/harken-flatwinder-gearbox-cover-300507.html Mainsheet Davit Tackle advice https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/mainsheet-davit-tackle-advice-300499.html Mon, 01 Jun 2026 21:00:00 GMT Hello All I have recently purchased a 34ft, and this is the arrangement for the mainsheet. It is not working very well. It twists up quickly and I... Hello All

I have recently purchased a 34ft, and this is the arrangement for the mainsheet. It is not working very well. It twists up quickly and I have untwisted several times. In light winds the boom will not run out.

Long term, I want to fit a traveller. What can I do to improve this?


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]]> BigglesZA https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/mainsheet-davit-tackle-advice-300499.html Need advice on stripped set screw in furler foil https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/need-advice-on-stripped-set-screw-in-furler-foil-300476.html Sun, 31 May 2026 00:05:56 GMT Before having the mast stepped, I was checking my genoa roller furler, a Profurl Basic-43 (circa 2004 on a 42’ monohull) and discovered that one of... Before having the mast stepped, I was checking my genoa roller furler, a Profurl Basic-43 (circa 2004 on a 42’ monohull) and discovered that one of the set screws used to join the sections of foil is stripped out. There are two on each section end so it was being held in place by one, but they likely design it with two for a reason. They are tiny little buggers but I expect I should go just go up a size and tap the hole then secure with blue thread lock. Anything I am missing here?

For more background, two years ago while sailing I noticed a section had separated. I was able to refurl the genoa but it was jammed so I had the boatyard’s rigger with a manlift get the sail off and repair the foil. My guess is that they stripped it out but one was still in place so they called it good.

Thank,
Harry ]]> hlev00 https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/need-advice-on-stripped-set-screw-in-furler-foil-300476.html DIY Stack Pak or basket catch? https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/diy-stack-pak-or-basket-catch-300430.html Wed, 27 May 2026 20:04:49 GMT has anyone used some lightweight aluminum or something to make a little basket that runs the length of the boom to catch the mainsail? Then you... has anyone used some lightweight aluminum or something to make a little basket that runs the length of the boom to catch the mainsail?

Then you could put the sunbrella across the top and down the sides to keep tye UV out?

I feel like I have seen one of these before. ]]> Chotu https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/diy-stack-pak-or-basket-catch-300430.html Tides Strong Track on a wood mast https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/tides-strong-track-on-a-wood-mast-300375.html Sun, 24 May 2026 05:17:23 GMT Hello group. Is there anyone here who has installed a Tides Marine Strong Track on their wood mast? I am in the final stages of rebuilding my main... Hello group. Is there anyone here who has installed a Tides Marine Strong Track on their wood mast?

I am in the final stages of rebuilding my main mast on my Hudson Force 50, and have run into an issue I am not sure how to resolve or if it really is an issue at all. I have removed the original sail track which consisted of a wood riser under a flat stainless track. It was attached with #14 wood screws every 4 inches going through the stainless and riser and fastening into the mast.

The Strong Track for the wood mast uses what they call a CMPE fastener, which appears to be just a small (1"x1.25"?) piece of external sail track that is fastened to the mast with a single screw. The problem is that these fasteners only accept a #10 screw and that just doesn't seem to be a large enough screw to me as the originals were #14.

In talking with the rigger Tides Marine refers tech questions to, he seemed to agree and is suggesting that I add a 1" T track to the mast to slide the Strong track onto as this solid connection between the fasteners will add strength to the installation. This adds quite a bit of cost to what I thought would be a relatively cheap upgrade to the sail handling.

The other option is to simply add more CMPE fasteners, one every 2". This would add another $500 to the install as I would need another 154 of these plus the accompanying stainless screws. Less than the T track, but still...

In the Tides Installation instructions they only suggest adding extra fasteners to the top 2 feet of track, at the reef points, and at the tack.

The mast is made of Sitka Spruce and the track is approximately 50 feet. Sail area is approximately 450 square feet. Any thoughts on this?

Tides Strong Track CMPE installation instructions:
https://www.tidesmarine.com/wp-conte.../10/cmpest.pdf ]]> Wind River https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/tides-strong-track-on-a-wood-mast-300375.html Andersen Winch orientation on a mast. To avoid seizing. https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/andersen-winch-orientation-on-a-mast-to-avoid-seizing-300365.html Sat, 23 May 2026 08:58:44 GMT Hello everyone, as I am rummaging on my newly bought old sailboat, I am noticing stuff that is not so practical. Thus, I found the one winch on... Hello everyone,


as I am rummaging on my newly bought old sailboat, I am noticing stuff that is not so practical. Thus, I found the one winch on the mast behaving sticky and not clicking enough...

Anyway, pulled it apart and found one drum pawl stuck, the groove for that pawl was facing upwards. So a perfect collector for water and grime.

Thus the thought occurred to reorient the winch.

Noteworthy, there is a big cutout on the hollow shaft of the winch base, that is also oriented upwards. So another water and dirt trap. This cutout is used for mounting the intermediate sprocket. Also the center shaft was really hard to turn and remove. So I assume that this was a bad Idea.

Finally, I started playing around with an image editor to choose the new orientation.

Anyway I put it, I will have one water / dirt collection pocket facing at least slightly upwards.

What to do? Choose the lesser evil, or just roll with it and service her 3x as often as the other winches?

It's an Andersen 18ST.

Would love to hear how you solve this issue! :thumb:

Here's some pics, Cheers!
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]]> Old_Greenhorn https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/andersen-winch-orientation-on-a-mast-to-avoid-seizing-300365.html <![CDATA[removeable staysail 'slutter' rigging on a Morgan 41?]]> https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/removeable-staysail-slutter-rigging-on-a-morgan-41-a-300304.html Tue, 19 May 2026 04:38:45 GMT pondering buying a Morgan 41 'Classic' (1987, fin-keel) and thinking it might be -really- nice to have a removable staysail rig, that might attach to the foredeck with a pelican clip to a pad-eye, for a small storm staysail, and not bother trying to use a partially unfurled genoa, when it's blowing like stink. I've heard sloop-cutters referred to as "slutters".

Wondering if anyone out there has done this with a Morgan 41 or something similar.. and advise on whether the foredeck cleat for dock lines might have enough internal support / tie into the bulkhead to not rip out with the upward stress of a staysail under load.

thanks! ]]> chrisgnicholas https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/removeable-staysail-slutter-rigging-on-a-morgan-41-a-300304.html Code zero or light genoa https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/code-zero-or-light-genoa-300291.html Mon, 18 May 2026 16:57:00 GMT Hi, not sure if Cruisers Forum is the best place to ask this question -- there seem to be other forums with more discussion on sails and rigging but... Hi, not sure if Cruisers Forum is the best place to ask this question -- there seem to be other forums with more discussion on sails and rigging but usually on smaller race specific boats. Anyway, we are mostly cruisers but enjoy sailing as fast as possible, and enter a race once or twice per year.

Older Jeanneau 49, originally sold with larger genoa but it came to us with a heavy 100% jib, quite bagged out. All new boat designs have small jibs and furling code zeros. Unfortunately, our older boat would require some stainless fabrication to remove the pulpit seat and beef up the anchor roller to fit a code zero.

This got me wondering, what if I just bought a new genoa in a light-weight cloth. Obviously would not be quite as light as a code zero, but wouldn't require any fabrication or other rigging changes. Switch the sails on my existing furler and put the unused sail in the locker. In the future I could add an inner solent forestay with furler and leave the jib on it, and this would fit without any fabrication.

Is this worth considering or is this "cheaping out" and should I spend my efforts and boat bucks chipping away at the fabrication and rigging require to ultimately make a code zero work? ]]> themorb https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/code-zero-or-light-genoa-300291.html Genoa Halyard Resistance https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/genoa-halyard-resistance-300272.html Sun, 17 May 2026 06:11:46 GMT On our 2019 Dufour 360 GL, there’s a lot of resistance when pulling either end of the genoa halyard, even without any load. The block seems to be in... On our 2019 Dufour 360 GL, there’s a lot of resistance when pulling either end of the genoa halyard, even without any load. The block seems to be in good condition (as seen through binoculars from the dock), so it’s a mystery. If anyone has experienced the same thing, what was the cause? And what was the solution? ]]> Howler https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/genoa-halyard-resistance-300272.html